The "what bike bits have you just bought" thread
Discussion
Jayfish said:
neilbauer said:
Jayfish said:
I've been offered one of these
http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/mountain-bik...
for £450, I'm not flush atm but think I could offload my 2014 scott aspect 740 for maybe £375 (cost £550 6 months ago), how good a deal is the Boardman?
That's quite a hit to take on the Scott, the Boardman has nice forks and hydraulic brakes so looks like it'll be a nice upgrade. I have an mx race hybrid and love it. http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/mountain-bik...
for £450, I'm not flush atm but think I could offload my 2014 scott aspect 740 for maybe £375 (cost £550 6 months ago), how good a deal is the Boardman?
Yes I'm just talking myself into it....
Following on from a pretty horrendous crash few weeks ago: hit a pothole @ 25 mph, mudguard jammed in wheel, straight over handlebars and then clubmate rode over my bike before crashing! I decided to get the bike repaired
Brand new rear wheel was bent , no gear indexing and loose headset and bent shifter, also headset had play,
I was expecting the worse and thought it would be cica £150-300, but thankfully only came to £26!
I bent back the shifter, the wheel trued up nicely (I couldn't believe that, it was proper bent...I mean really bent!!!), I thought the indexing was down to a stretched cable, but the dropout was bent and the frame was a bit out of line, so the shop put it on a Jig and realigned it. Headset just needed torquing
Quite happy with that, glad it was on my steel bike (even though the steel mudguard contributed to it) as the bike slammed to the ground from quite a height, then another bike rode over it, I think if it was carbon or alu it could have written of the frame.
Still I just got to ride it now to check Fingers crossed it rides ok....
Brand new rear wheel was bent , no gear indexing and loose headset and bent shifter, also headset had play,
I was expecting the worse and thought it would be cica £150-300, but thankfully only came to £26!
I bent back the shifter, the wheel trued up nicely (I couldn't believe that, it was proper bent...I mean really bent!!!), I thought the indexing was down to a stretched cable, but the dropout was bent and the frame was a bit out of line, so the shop put it on a Jig and realigned it. Headset just needed torquing
Quite happy with that, glad it was on my steel bike (even though the steel mudguard contributed to it) as the bike slammed to the ground from quite a height, then another bike rode over it, I think if it was carbon or alu it could have written of the frame.
Still I just got to ride it now to check Fingers crossed it rides ok....
AyBee said:
Gruffy said:
I don't think it does.
I'd be grateful if you could confirm when it arrives please https://www.canyon.com/_en/roadbikes/bike.html?b=3...
wobert said:
Same here, 4 weeks in an 151 miles later, no looking back.....
Nice to see another person with taste!Quick question, assuming you have the Volant 20 the same as me: Is there any play in the steerer/head tube on your one? On mine the steerer rocks forwards inside the head tube by about 1mm when you apply the front brake. I'm new to the world of carbon forks and oversize steerers/head tubes so I'm not sure whether a small bit of play is expected or not; previously this would have been a bad thing.
Berz said:
Nice to see another person with taste!
Quick question, assuming you have the Volant 20 the same as me: Is there any play in the steerer/head tube on your one? On mine the steerer rocks forwards inside the head tube by about 1mm when you apply the front brake. I'm new to the world of carbon forks and oversize steerers/head tubes so I'm not sure whether a small bit of play is expected or not; previously this would have been a bad thing.
Top cap tightened after stem bolts is a possible cause cause, loosen your stem bolts re-tighten top cap, tighten stem bolts again.Quick question, assuming you have the Volant 20 the same as me: Is there any play in the steerer/head tube on your one? On mine the steerer rocks forwards inside the head tube by about 1mm when you apply the front brake. I'm new to the world of carbon forks and oversize steerers/head tubes so I'm not sure whether a small bit of play is expected or not; previously this would have been a bad thing.
Jayfish said:
Top cap tightened after stem bolts is a possible cause cause, loosen your stem bolts re-tighten top cap, tighten stem bolts again.
Just make sure you don't overtighten the stem. Loosen stem bolts
Tighten top cap until all play is taken up
Back off top cap a just fraction then check the headset it not binding and movement is free and smooth
Tighten stem bolts
To check you have not overtightened the steerer is to hold the frame up at the seatpost allowing the front wheel to hang down, rock the frame slightly from side to side and the front wheel should swing smoothly and easily from side to side
To check if the steerer is loose lift the front wheel about 4" off the ground and drop it down, if adjustment is required you will hear the steering rattle/clatter as the wheel hits the deck
47p2 said:
Jayfish said:
Top cap tightened after stem bolts is a possible cause cause, loosen your stem bolts re-tighten top cap, tighten stem bolts again.
Just make sure you don't overtighten the stem. Loosen stem bolts
Tighten top cap until all play is taken up
Back off top cap a just fraction then check the headset it not binding and movement is free and smooth
Tighten stem bolts
To check you have not overtightened the steerer is to hold the frame up at the seatpost allowing the front wheel to hang down, rock the frame slightly from side to side and the front wheel should swing smoothly and easily from side to side
To check if the steerer is loose lift the front wheel about 4" off the ground and drop it down, if adjustment is required you will hear the steering rattle/clatter as the wheel hits the deck
Bought one of the C&B Seen 1200lm lights. It's brilliant! Waterproof battery pack, Velcro case and a UK plug socket with very good quality wiring/connectors. Very happy with it, never ridden in the dark before but just been out on some unlit roads and it was perfectly fine.
Also bought a PRO Tool Bottle thing and drilled a hole in the side for the wiring to come out.
Also bought a PRO Tool Bottle thing and drilled a hole in the side for the wiring to come out.
WinstonWolf said:
They're very good lights, I hit 30 in places in pitch darkness tonight and didn't feel under lit at any point and that was on the low setting
Yep, hit 30 in a slight downhill and could easily see far enough ahead for any pot holes. I've got the diffuser on mine, can still light up probably 150 yards in front if angled up. Brilliant. Weird feeling when a few cars come past and then nothing, complete darkness just you and the light circle infront of you.
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