Discussion
i guys my name is scott berry I aquired a global gt last year with the intention of doing a few run what ya brungs with it and a few trackdays. So after doing a few little jobs I fianly managed to get the car up to santa pod and have a few runs.It didn't quite go as planned but thankfully no major dramas but that was to be expected. I managed to do a run of 12.7 on a set of old scrubed wets bellow are some pictures video and times. If anyone has any advice or suggestions on how I can improve these times please post them as I think I am addicted now
on board video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYrQLk59OqI
here are the stats on my best run
R.T 00.6515
60' 2.0026
330' 5.1795
1/8 ET 7.9317
1/8 MPH 89.08
1000' ET 10.5171
1000' MPH 94.45
1/4 ET 12.7055
MPH 101.88
on board video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYrQLk59OqI
here are the stats on my best run
R.T 00.6515
60' 2.0026
330' 5.1795
1/8 ET 7.9317
1/8 MPH 89.08
1000' ET 10.5171
1000' MPH 94.45
1/4 ET 12.7055
MPH 101.88
its a global gt light.Made for a one make series that still runs in ireland.The car is runnig a 1999 yammaha r1 engine.The engine is fairly standard as far as i am aware the only modifications are a k+n air filter,omex rev limiter and smaller sprockets.These cars run a chain drive system were the engine cradle is moved to tension the chain.As for the suspension it is a full inboard setup with double wishbones large ohlins shocks all round with ajustabel dampening.The chasis is a tubular spaceframe.Fully fueld with me in it weighs about 480kgs.I think the first upgrade will be an uprated clutch.Other than changing the tyres the suspension has been full setup by aurock wich is handy because the previous owner is about the same weight and build as me
metro1 said:
These cars run a chain drive system were the engine cradle is moved to tension the chain.
Same set up as (some, if not all) Junior Dragsters.Obvious changes (other than nitrous) would be to source some slicks and consider stiffening the suspension (mainly the rear).
I am not sure that roll hoop would cut it with the Tech Crew.
Edited by Justin Stage on Tuesday 7th May 10:30
One thing to watch though - if you decide to start racing in the SPRC / APIRA National championships you _may_ have some issues ensuring that your chassis meets the technical requirements - so if you decided you want to go that root I guess it would be best to speak to someone like Mark Norton.
dorrisdormouse said:
One thing to watch though - if you decide to start racing in the SPRC / APIRA National championships you _may_ have some issues ensuring that your chassis meets the technical requirements - so if you decided you want to go that root I guess it would be best to speak to someone like Mark Norton.
Yep. You were behind me in the pairing lanes the other week, and I thought it looked like a great car. And if you're really hooked, the only cure is to come racing. Once you've done that, RWYB will never seem the same! But I did wonder about the roll hoop. With the times you're currently running, you'll be in Sportsman ET (great class, close racing, very friendly) and the requirements are minimal. Because it's an open top car, you'll need a suitable hoop. What you have may or may not be acceptable, so check with a scrutineer. If the hoop is acceptable, I think you'll also be able to step up to Pro ET without changes, too, provided you don't go quicker than 10.00s.love the photo centeral
tet the roll hoop is currently msa logbooked for hill climbing so hopefully it should be okay.
justin i have a set of slicks ready to go on next time.As for the stiffening the rear its not really an option.I am currently looking into fitting a flatshifter as well.
tet the roll hoop is currently msa logbooked for hill climbing so hopefully it should be okay.
justin i have a set of slicks ready to go on next time.As for the stiffening the rear its not really an option.I am currently looking into fitting a flatshifter as well.
been reading up on barnett racing clutches.im going to order one of these
http://www.moto-racing.co.uk/item--Barnett-Clutch-...
i have been recomended to use standerd friction plates thoe does that sound right to you turn 7?
http://www.moto-racing.co.uk/item--Barnett-Clutch-...
i have been recomended to use standerd friction plates thoe does that sound right to you turn 7?
Yeah, I've heard the genuine yam plates are better than the Barnett stuff.
Imagine an R1 bike with a rear tyre about 18 inches wide. Load it up with a fat pillion passenger and enough touring gear to travel to Europe and back....
Now try and run the quarter with it........
You have to remember the stress you are putting into a bike engine when installed into a car.
I can't rememeber the weak spot on the Older 4xv lumps, which I guess you have?
Imagine an R1 bike with a rear tyre about 18 inches wide. Load it up with a fat pillion passenger and enough touring gear to travel to Europe and back....
Now try and run the quarter with it........
You have to remember the stress you are putting into a bike engine when installed into a car.
I can't rememeber the weak spot on the Older 4xv lumps, which I guess you have?
Edited by Turn7 on Wednesday 8th May 06:49
Welcome to PH Drag Racing !
"And now for something completely different........".....Great looking car !
I know nothing about this car, but may suggest front tires that are not so wide,
as a glued track might increase rolling resistance ?
Do you really need the big spoiler on the quarter mile straight, does it spin the rears ?
Check the camber of the rear wheels, should be 0° at full load for optimum contact surface.
If the -reinforced- clutch holds, the chain may get a lot of abuse, check tension after running.
If it gives problems, there are special Drag Racing chains with double outer links,
although this would mean more weight, and more mass to rotate.
If all this is bollx then someone will correct me soon.
metro1 said:
love the photo centeral
tet the roll hoop is currently msa logbooked for hill climbing so hopefully it should be okay.
justin i have a set of slicks ready to go on next time.As for the stiffening the rear its not really an option.I am currently looking into fitting a flatshifter as well.
Hi Welcome aboard,tet the roll hoop is currently msa logbooked for hill climbing so hopefully it should be okay.
justin i have a set of slicks ready to go on next time.As for the stiffening the rear its not really an option.I am currently looking into fitting a flatshifter as well.
If you want to carry on with RWYB the roll hoop would be OK until I guess you hit 10 sec's then it may get the attention of the startline crew.
Not wanting to put you off or spoil your fun, but before you go spending lots of money making it quicker, MSA Hill Climb specs are not acceptable in Dragracing. I don't have my rule book with me, but I'm not sure the hoop is even legal down to 12 secs beings as its open top, I will have a look.
Interesting stats on you're best run, a 12.7 in a bike engined car, I'd expect to see a 60ft of around 1.7-1.8 seconds and a top speed of around103-105mph, I'd say there's more time in there yet. My legend used to do 1.8 60ft and a 13.0 1/4 mile at 103mph, I never revved it that high off the start though because the backend was incredibly lively and would just spin up!
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