Beginer racer

Author
Discussion

Turn7

23,591 posts

221 months

Sunday 2nd June 2013
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metro1 said:
it went pop yesterday nocked 500ths of my best time before hand so im hopping to have a new engine put in and be back out within the month there was definatly more performance there
What broke? Those motors are pretty strong.

metro1

Original Poster:

88 posts

155 months

Sunday 2nd June 2013
quotequote all
were not 100% yet but we suspect one of the shells has gone but it could be anything in the bottom end im hopping to strip it down and take a look in the week if i get chance. i may have found a new one so hopefully i can swap them round and be back up and running within the month.

Turn7

23,591 posts

221 months

Sunday 2nd June 2013
quotequote all
Hmm. iirc, cam chain tensioners were weak on those. Did you keep good oil in it?

metro1

Original Poster:

88 posts

155 months

Sunday 2nd June 2013
quotequote all
yeah i put new oil in before the first trip to the pod hasn't done much inbetween.The oil was genuine yammaha stuff from a main dealer.

metro1

Original Poster:

88 posts

155 months

Sunday 23rd February 2014
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hi guys its been a very long time since I last posted but I have now begun making headway with the global and im hoping to take her out again next month. I have fitted a new r1 engine with uprated carbs and a better induction set up, heat wrapped the exhaust and had the front clamshell repaired and re sprayed along with getting a couple of sponsors. I have come to the conclusion that I want to fit a bigger bike engine either a hayabusa or a zx1400 but I am unsure of which and im still working out the details of what would need changing to make the project work however my target is clear a 10 second pass it was something me and my granddad wanted to do sadly he's no longer with me which is why I am more determined than ever to do it. that with said I have just hit my first theoretical hurdle to get to my target I was planning on using forced induction but to get the most out of it I am going to need to drop the compression ratio down which will mean new pistons and rods so how would you guys recommend I run in the new engine? so how do you run in a drag engine?

metro1

Original Poster:

88 posts

155 months

Sunday 27th July 2014
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been a long time since I posted anything but to be honest I haven't made any real progress, the car has been rather unreliable. every time I have fixed a problem I have found another mainly electrical but I have not managed a single pass this year. Things are on the up though, I had a passenger ride in an ab performance arion at sneterton last week, to see if I thought the engine would be a good fit for my project. So ever next month or the month after the car is going in to have an 09 cbr engine fitted. After mapping on a stand alone ecu I am hopping for about 180bhp.In between repairs the car has already been converted to a cable gear change and had a rear wing delete kit made up so I can run without a rear wing while keeping the rear clamshell attached
the jobs that are going to get done all being well are
hard mounting the cbr1000rr engine
custom manifold
rear axle mods
complete re wire
new water pump
removable bulkhead
cut down fuel tank and modify into twin tanks so I have a 5 litre drag tank and a 20 litre circuit tank to reduce weight

ribaric

262 posts

175 months

Monday 28th July 2014
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Benni said:
Welcome to PH Drag Racing !
"And now for something completely different........".....Great looking car !
I know nothing about this car, but may suggest front tires that are not so wide,
as a glued track might increase rolling resistance ?
Do you really need the big spoiler on the quarter mile straight, does it spin the rears ?
Check the camber of the rear wheels, should be 0° at full load for optimum contact surface.
If the -reinforced- clutch holds, the chain may get a lot of abuse, check tension after running.
If it gives problems, there are special Drag Racing chains with double outer links,
although this would mean more weight, and more mass to rotate.
If all this is bollx then someone will correct me soon.
I'd revisit Benni's suggestions before you start spending money. There's plenty of "free" ET to be had by dealing with rear-wheelspin and reducing the width of the front tyres. There's probably just as much available by learning all about (shallow) staging. What is the word regarding your chassis and safety certification?

metro1

Original Poster:

88 posts

155 months

Monday 28th July 2014
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haven't spoken to a scruitineer yet as i'm trying to keep it fun and get the thing reliable as for wheel spin I don't have that trouble at the moment but I have shredded one chain so far. I don't think it was that great to begin with but I have managed to blag a new renthal chain to try for free and I am looking for a used set of slicks on rims for the front the main problem I have is that without reliable seat time I cant progress and I cant get that without reliability which just isn't there