Looking At Buying A Honda Civic Type R
Discussion
Hi Folks,
Just as the title states, looking into buying myself an 03/04 honda civic type r and I would like some advice from the car maniacs out there on not only how to maintain the car to make sure it's kept in good condition but what I would be looking for when buying one to make sure i'm not buying a busted type r.
I know this has no doubt been done to death but i guess it keeps you car maniacs busy eh lol.
Also what's the difference in the models if there is any, MK///A-C//EP3 civics? I'm no mechanic so these questions may very well sound like the most ridiculous you've ever seen but I need some help with this.
Cheers,
Stevie
Just as the title states, looking into buying myself an 03/04 honda civic type r and I would like some advice from the car maniacs out there on not only how to maintain the car to make sure it's kept in good condition but what I would be looking for when buying one to make sure i'm not buying a busted type r.
I know this has no doubt been done to death but i guess it keeps you car maniacs busy eh lol.
Also what's the difference in the models if there is any, MK///A-C//EP3 civics? I'm no mechanic so these questions may very well sound like the most ridiculous you've ever seen but I need some help with this.
- What price range am I looking at here as well, 2-4k for a standard or?**
Cheers,
Stevie
I couldn't be further from an authority on Type R's, but I have owned an 55 EP3 for around 6 months. Here are some general thoughts which most likely fail to answer your questions!
Firstly go for a facelift model (04 onwards). Whilst choosing my car I drove both the pre-facelift and facelift (& a FN2). In my opinion the facelift model looks better, has far better steering and has a lighter clutch. To me it felt like a completely different car.
Secondly as you have gathered there are a good number of EP3s for sale but not necersarrily a good number of high quality ones. For example I paid significantly above your budget but got a relatively low mileage (for age) car in excellent condition throughout. In my experience a £4k type R has usually been ragged to death and is an unattractive prospect. BUT that said I do live in a part of the country where car prices are probably well above average AND I was only buying from dealers for various reasons. I think there is a balance to be reached at the top of your budget between quality and price and a pre-facelift version might present the best balance. But generally I think you get what you pay for.
As for what to look for when buying http://type-r-owners.co.uk has masses of information, e.g. this buyers guide: http://www.hondacivicforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5...
Finally, buy one. They are epic machines when you learn to get the most out of them. Hope some of this helps.
Firstly go for a facelift model (04 onwards). Whilst choosing my car I drove both the pre-facelift and facelift (& a FN2). In my opinion the facelift model looks better, has far better steering and has a lighter clutch. To me it felt like a completely different car.
Secondly as you have gathered there are a good number of EP3s for sale but not necersarrily a good number of high quality ones. For example I paid significantly above your budget but got a relatively low mileage (for age) car in excellent condition throughout. In my experience a £4k type R has usually been ragged to death and is an unattractive prospect. BUT that said I do live in a part of the country where car prices are probably well above average AND I was only buying from dealers for various reasons. I think there is a balance to be reached at the top of your budget between quality and price and a pre-facelift version might present the best balance. But generally I think you get what you pay for.
As for what to look for when buying http://type-r-owners.co.uk has masses of information, e.g. this buyers guide: http://www.hondacivicforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5...
Finally, buy one. They are epic machines when you learn to get the most out of them. Hope some of this helps.
P1H said:
I couldn't be further from an authority on Type R's, but I have owned an 55 EP3 for around 6 months. Here are some general thoughts which most likely fail to answer your questions!
Firstly go for a facelift model (04 onwards). Whilst choosing my car I drove both the pre-facelift and facelift (& a FN2). In my opinion the facelift model looks better, has far better steering and has a lighter clutch. To me it felt like a completely different car.
Secondly as you have gathered there are a good number of EP3s for sale but not necersarrily a good number of high quality ones. For example I paid significantly above your budget but got a relatively low mileage (for age) car in excellent condition throughout. In my experience a £4k type R has usually been ragged to death and is an unattractive prospect. BUT that said I do live in a part of the country where car prices are probably well above average AND I was only buying from dealers for various reasons. I think there is a balance to be reached at the top of your budget between quality and price and a pre-facelift version might present the best balance. But generally I think you get what you pay for.
As for what to look for when buying http://type-r-owners.co.uk has masses of information, e.g. this buyers guide: http://www.hondacivicforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5...
Finally, buy one. They are epic machines when you learn to get the most out of them. Hope some of this helps.
Cheers mate, will have a good look through these before going for a Type R EP3, just kinda blows you can't buy them off most garages nowadays so having to go private etc.Firstly go for a facelift model (04 onwards). Whilst choosing my car I drove both the pre-facelift and facelift (& a FN2). In my opinion the facelift model looks better, has far better steering and has a lighter clutch. To me it felt like a completely different car.
Secondly as you have gathered there are a good number of EP3s for sale but not necersarrily a good number of high quality ones. For example I paid significantly above your budget but got a relatively low mileage (for age) car in excellent condition throughout. In my experience a £4k type R has usually been ragged to death and is an unattractive prospect. BUT that said I do live in a part of the country where car prices are probably well above average AND I was only buying from dealers for various reasons. I think there is a balance to be reached at the top of your budget between quality and price and a pre-facelift version might present the best balance. But generally I think you get what you pay for.
As for what to look for when buying http://type-r-owners.co.uk has masses of information, e.g. this buyers guide: http://www.hondacivicforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5...
Finally, buy one. They are epic machines when you learn to get the most out of them. Hope some of this helps.
P1H said:
Firstly go for a facelift model (04 onwards). Whilst choosing my car I drove both the pre-facelift and facelift (& a FN2). In my opinion the facelift model looks better, has far better steering and has a lighter clutch. To me it felt like a completely different car.
Are you sure that isn't just because the earlier car had a worn clutch (they don't last long) and a knackered steering rack (very, very common)? I fitted a late facelift rack to my '53 car and it was just as bad as the one I removed.Hi Stevie
I've owned my CTR (EP3 '54 plate) for 4 years now and it's been an absolute hoot. In terms of difference between the EP3 models there aren't too many:
Pre-facelift (before 2004)
Facelift (2004 onwards although you may find some late 2003 cars)
Standard editions
Premier editions (purely cosmetic; Recaro seats, Momo steering wheel and rear privacy glass) - I believe these were introduced towards end of production, say 2005 onwards?
JDM Championship White EP3 - but this is out of your budget, and frankly, they're overpriced with current exchange rates.
The only real option worth ticking from the factory was the A/C - I wouldn't buy a CTR without it.
In terms of ownership and downfalls, there genuinely aren't many. The only issues I've had with my CTR in terms of garage work is a rear seized caliper, otherwise it's just consumables - tyres, oil, fuel and servicing costs which have gone into my Civic - very reliable (touch wood) and offsets the fuel prices although with sensible driving you will see 30mpg.
It's true what people say about the steering - the EAS system is wooly but you learn to understand it and more importantly actually trust it as you can still really hustle these cars down good A/B-roads when you want to. The steering is a small bug bear against the engine and transmission combo, really tight gear changes, a great free-reving engine, what's not to like?
Any specifics, just ask. As said you'll get more detailed information on the CTR forums and websites but happy to help.
4 years down the line and it still puts a smile on my face, I can't think of anything that would provide this much entertainment without me having to find extra cash to add, the reliability of Honda and running costs which have equated to consumables.
I've owned my CTR (EP3 '54 plate) for 4 years now and it's been an absolute hoot. In terms of difference between the EP3 models there aren't too many:
Pre-facelift (before 2004)
Facelift (2004 onwards although you may find some late 2003 cars)
Standard editions
Premier editions (purely cosmetic; Recaro seats, Momo steering wheel and rear privacy glass) - I believe these were introduced towards end of production, say 2005 onwards?
JDM Championship White EP3 - but this is out of your budget, and frankly, they're overpriced with current exchange rates.
The only real option worth ticking from the factory was the A/C - I wouldn't buy a CTR without it.
In terms of ownership and downfalls, there genuinely aren't many. The only issues I've had with my CTR in terms of garage work is a rear seized caliper, otherwise it's just consumables - tyres, oil, fuel and servicing costs which have gone into my Civic - very reliable (touch wood) and offsets the fuel prices although with sensible driving you will see 30mpg.
It's true what people say about the steering - the EAS system is wooly but you learn to understand it and more importantly actually trust it as you can still really hustle these cars down good A/B-roads when you want to. The steering is a small bug bear against the engine and transmission combo, really tight gear changes, a great free-reving engine, what's not to like?
Any specifics, just ask. As said you'll get more detailed information on the CTR forums and websites but happy to help.
4 years down the line and it still puts a smile on my face, I can't think of anything that would provide this much entertainment without me having to find extra cash to add, the reliability of Honda and running costs which have equated to consumables.
Hi,
To give you some back ground I've owned mine for 10 months now (bought it Xmas eve eve
) and done about 6k of mixed driving, both steady 10 mile commute and evening hoons with friends plus occasional track time. I'll be honest, I love it to bits, and its a keeper!
In terms of price they really are inconsistent for the condition/asking price, some dogs ask for top money and some minters fetch a suprising price, seems to depends largely on location and owner not knowing their popularity in the wider market. ypically they start at about 2k for a 51/02 plate with around 100k on the clock, with a decent 03 with 65k being about 3750 for reference.
In terms of advice, check for/ask owner on:
Service history with frequent oil changes if driven hard - Honda recommend 12.5k between services but after about 3k the oil does start to darken. Also check for coolant change at 10 years, possible tappet adjustment at 75k (if needed), and timing chain is done at 100k too (about 300 notes).
Steering doesn't pull right when you let it go on a flat, smooth road - indicates knackered EPAS steering rack that should have been done under warranty and will cost a wedge to do (don't know an exact price)
Oil grade used - 0w30 is used by some owners and can burn off quickly if the owner doesnt allow engine to warm up and/or revs the car often, make sure he checks it often (typically weekly/ fortnightly). (Fuchs Pro-S) 5w40 is typically chosen by owners who work their car hard but are attentive to oil consumption and engine care (most engines use none at all with most grades)
How the owner treats the car regarding revs from cold, car has no oil temp' guage as standard so ( from experience) allow about 5-10 miles depending upon ambient temperature before revving hard
-
Note: Engine will not rev above 5500 at either stand still or if the oil is low (VTEC kicks in at 5850)
Rear tyres can wear the inner edge due to standard camber setting, so make sure they aren't knackered too!
-
Few points off the top of my head that Pre & Post facelift cars differ:
Flywheel is about 3kg lighter on the facelifted car (same engine), and has apparently increased response.
EPAS steering tune is different,to reduce the 'lag' on pre-facelifts and increase feedback and feel.
Hope it helps!
To give you some back ground I've owned mine for 10 months now (bought it Xmas eve eve
) and done about 6k of mixed driving, both steady 10 mile commute and evening hoons with friends plus occasional track time. I'll be honest, I love it to bits, and its a keeper!In terms of price they really are inconsistent for the condition/asking price, some dogs ask for top money and some minters fetch a suprising price, seems to depends largely on location and owner not knowing their popularity in the wider market. ypically they start at about 2k for a 51/02 plate with around 100k on the clock, with a decent 03 with 65k being about 3750 for reference.
In terms of advice, check for/ask owner on:
Service history with frequent oil changes if driven hard - Honda recommend 12.5k between services but after about 3k the oil does start to darken. Also check for coolant change at 10 years, possible tappet adjustment at 75k (if needed), and timing chain is done at 100k too (about 300 notes).
Steering doesn't pull right when you let it go on a flat, smooth road - indicates knackered EPAS steering rack that should have been done under warranty and will cost a wedge to do (don't know an exact price)
Oil grade used - 0w30 is used by some owners and can burn off quickly if the owner doesnt allow engine to warm up and/or revs the car often, make sure he checks it often (typically weekly/ fortnightly). (Fuchs Pro-S) 5w40 is typically chosen by owners who work their car hard but are attentive to oil consumption and engine care (most engines use none at all with most grades)
How the owner treats the car regarding revs from cold, car has no oil temp' guage as standard so ( from experience) allow about 5-10 miles depending upon ambient temperature before revving hard
-
Note: Engine will not rev above 5500 at either stand still or if the oil is low (VTEC kicks in at 5850)
Rear tyres can wear the inner edge due to standard camber setting, so make sure they aren't knackered too!
-
- Note: Some owners will run budgets at the rear, and given the cars lift-off oversteer tendancy, this may not end well (though the standard car is quite progressive when it does go). The standard Bridgestones are expensive and not great (apparently) in the wet in terms of mechanical grip, though great in the dry.
Few points off the top of my head that Pre & Post facelift cars differ:
Flywheel is about 3kg lighter on the facelifted car (same engine), and has apparently increased response.
EPAS steering tune is different,to reduce the 'lag' on pre-facelifts and increase feedback and feel.
Hope it helps!
Edited by The Ka Guy on Wednesday 17th October 13:19
Edited by The Ka Guy on Wednesday 17th October 13:24
Gassing Station | Honda | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff