Discussion
I currently have 16s on mine but I have run 17s as well. Personally, I prefer the feel of the 16s on the road with a lowered car. The extra tyre wall seems to compliment the stiffened suspension and you can feel that slight movement in them. I feel it makes the car a little more progressive.
In saying that, I will be running 17s over the summer with maybe a tyre with a softer tyre wall! I am also starting a rebush in the next few weeks..... that should be fun!
In saying that, I will be running 17s over the summer with maybe a tyre with a softer tyre wall! I am also starting a rebush in the next few weeks..... that should be fun!
Slightly related to the current topic... tyre pressures.
I just switched back to OEM 17s with RE050 Bridgestone Potenzas, from OEM 16s running Nokian winter tyres. The ride was obviously harder and the steering more direct, but I also found myself having to steer the car a little right to keep it from pulling into the curb. It also just felt a bit strange over bumps. The tracking is straight as I had it done in November and the car tracked straight on 16s.
So on the way home from work I topped up the pressures to 32 psi all round. All the tyres were at 28 psi and I'm pretty sure the problem is now cured. If it's not I'll get both front wheels balanced.
Now I know people say S2000s are very sensitive to tyre pressure, but are they THAT sensitive to be affected by 4 psi?
I just switched back to OEM 17s with RE050 Bridgestone Potenzas, from OEM 16s running Nokian winter tyres. The ride was obviously harder and the steering more direct, but I also found myself having to steer the car a little right to keep it from pulling into the curb. It also just felt a bit strange over bumps. The tracking is straight as I had it done in November and the car tracked straight on 16s.
So on the way home from work I topped up the pressures to 32 psi all round. All the tyres were at 28 psi and I'm pretty sure the problem is now cured. If it's not I'll get both front wheels balanced.
Now I know people say S2000s are very sensitive to tyre pressure, but are they THAT sensitive to be affected by 4 psi?
Yes they can be very sensitive to tyre pressure and coupled with poor geo can mean a visit to a hedge near you. You need more than just tracking full 4 wheel alignment is the norm for these cars by some one who knows what they are doing not Quick Fit
My car is on 16 rims with Toyo tyre , these have slightly softer side wall than the now available Bridgestones and certainly softer than the original SO2 fitted but no longer available . I run the Toyo tyres at 34 psi , at 32 they feel so soft the rear wanders around .
My car is on 16 rims with Toyo tyre , these have slightly softer side wall than the now available Bridgestones and certainly softer than the original SO2 fitted but no longer available . I run the Toyo tyres at 34 psi , at 32 they feel so soft the rear wanders around .
Chippo1 said:
Yes they can be very sensitive to tyre pressure and coupled with poor geo can mean a visit to a hedge near you. You need more than just tracking full 4 wheel alignment is the norm for these cars by some one who knows what they are doing not Quick Fit
My car is on 16 rims with Toyo tyre , these have slightly softer side wall than the now available Bridgestones and certainly softer than the original SO2 fitted but no longer available . I run the Toyo tyres at 34 psi , at 32 they feel so soft the rear wanders around .
1) Agree with the sensitive to pressures - 4 psi is quite a lot, that's over 10%!My car is on 16 rims with Toyo tyre , these have slightly softer side wall than the now available Bridgestones and certainly softer than the original SO2 fitted but no longer available . I run the Toyo tyres at 34 psi , at 32 they feel so soft the rear wanders around .
2) Full wheel geo? Or tracking? Completely different - the former is required on these cars.
3) Toyos have very soft sidewalls, not surprised you need to over inflate them! They work great on lighter cars, such as an MX-5 but the s2000 is too heavy.
Riknos said:
Chippo1 said:
Yes they can be very sensitive to tyre pressure and coupled with poor geo can mean a visit to a hedge near you. You need more than just tracking full 4 wheel alignment is the norm for these cars by some one who knows what they are doing not Quick Fit
My car is on 16 rims with Toyo tyre , these have slightly softer side wall than the now available Bridgestones and certainly softer than the original SO2 fitted but no longer available . I run the Toyo tyres at 34 psi , at 32 they feel so soft the rear wanders around .
1) Agree with the sensitive to pressures - 4 psi is quite a lot, that's over 10%!My car is on 16 rims with Toyo tyre , these have slightly softer side wall than the now available Bridgestones and certainly softer than the original SO2 fitted but no longer available . I run the Toyo tyres at 34 psi , at 32 they feel so soft the rear wanders around .
2) Full wheel geo? Or tracking? Completely different - the former is required on these cars.
RenOHH said:
What does a full wheel geo consist of? I had the camber and toe checked/adjusted on both axles against the factory settings. I understand that some people will go for a different set up from the specialist suggested. But surely there is no problem with going to a place that will adjust toe/camber to Honda's default values?
It's not just toe and camber that can be adjusted, everything is adjustable on the S2000. Caster, Camber & Toe front & rear, recommended Honda settings below:
As someone said above - wrong settings can end you up in a hedge incredibly quickly, especially on the earlier cars.
will-w said:
It's not just toe and camber that can be adjusted, everything is adjustable on the S2000. Caster, Camber & Toe front & rear, recommended Honda settings below:
As someone said above - wrong settings can end you up in a hedge incredibly quickly, especially on the earlier cars.
Okay, so only the caster wasn't checked. Of course I understand poor geo is bad, I was just asking what is adjustable. My car seems fine now, it must have been the pressures.As someone said above - wrong settings can end you up in a hedge incredibly quickly, especially on the earlier cars.
Yes the caster needs to be checked along with all of the other adjustable parameters.
It is the way this is achieved and the accuracy of the end result, one problem. Doing the adjustment will be a problem for less that capable establishments as each adjustment affects the others and it,s very much a case of "slowly catch the monkey", fairly easy to get into the green zones but the cars handling is delicate and benefits from a better than average geo adjustment .
Following a suspension rebuild on my car WIM took over 2 hours to get mine right and essentially that was OEM settings, with slight variation due to a slightly lower than OEM car , we reached the limit of rear toe adjustment with standard arms for instance . They also made some less than standard caster adjustments to the front to account for UK road cambers and to enable the car to track straight , end result a stable and predictable set up ,I very much doubt the average QF could achieve this level of skill or service . Also I was under the car although this process with the mechanic and discussed every move and it's effect and watched as the adjustments were made and saw how they affected each other and how many times adjustments were tweaked to achieve the optimum. I drove out with confidence
And yes Toyo,s have soft side walls and are fine for the weight of the car , this just needs to be born in mind when driving and the increase in pressures help , however my experience over the SO2 the original OEM tyre was a less critical on the limit breakaway with more warning of the impending arrival of disaster , not least by some noise from the tyres . Also far better in the wet than the Bridgestones
It is the way this is achieved and the accuracy of the end result, one problem. Doing the adjustment will be a problem for less that capable establishments as each adjustment affects the others and it,s very much a case of "slowly catch the monkey", fairly easy to get into the green zones but the cars handling is delicate and benefits from a better than average geo adjustment .
Following a suspension rebuild on my car WIM took over 2 hours to get mine right and essentially that was OEM settings, with slight variation due to a slightly lower than OEM car , we reached the limit of rear toe adjustment with standard arms for instance . They also made some less than standard caster adjustments to the front to account for UK road cambers and to enable the car to track straight , end result a stable and predictable set up ,I very much doubt the average QF could achieve this level of skill or service . Also I was under the car although this process with the mechanic and discussed every move and it's effect and watched as the adjustments were made and saw how they affected each other and how many times adjustments were tweaked to achieve the optimum. I drove out with confidence
And yes Toyo,s have soft side walls and are fine for the weight of the car , this just needs to be born in mind when driving and the increase in pressures help , however my experience over the SO2 the original OEM tyre was a less critical on the limit breakaway with more warning of the impending arrival of disaster , not least by some noise from the tyres . Also far better in the wet than the Bridgestones
Edited by Chippo1 on Friday 14th March 20:10
Dracoro said:
Sat navs were only on grey imports. As it was all in Japanese, they were a bit useless over here anyway. Nothing to stop someone replacing with a different screen/head unit or, in the case of the pic above, some extra storage.
I've seen a few pictures where people have installed an Android tablet in the OEM housing... It looks almost OEM if done right.... And on a slightly related topic, I've just put my S2000 up for sale if anyone is interested
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