Discussion
Had the GPD on mine - no real noticable difference, but a hell of a difference in the likely outcome should it finish up upside down..
While we're at it, I'd seriously question fitting full harnesses to anything without a proper cage. In the worst case you have some scope to get folded up into the car in a regular set of belts. With a full harness immobilising your upper body, have a think about what happens to your neck when the windscreen frame collapses, even if you have a rollbar. Mine just had a foamectomy on the drivers seat, and personally I didn't have too much problem, or a need to brace myself on the steering wheel. A proper bucket was on the list however.
As someone else said, it is a pretty light car - I'd just make sure it's in reasonable mechanical order, track it and see.
While we're at it, I'd seriously question fitting full harnesses to anything without a proper cage. In the worst case you have some scope to get folded up into the car in a regular set of belts. With a full harness immobilising your upper body, have a think about what happens to your neck when the windscreen frame collapses, even if you have a rollbar. Mine just had a foamectomy on the drivers seat, and personally I didn't have too much problem, or a need to brace myself on the steering wheel. A proper bucket was on the list however.
As someone else said, it is a pretty light car - I'd just make sure it's in reasonable mechanical order, track it and see.
upsidedownmark said:
Had the GPD on mine - no real noticable difference, but a hell of a difference in the likely outcome should it finish up upside down..
While we're at it, I'd seriously question fitting full harnesses to anything without a proper cage. In the worst case you have some scope to get folded up into the car in a regular set of belts. With a full harness immobilising your upper body, have a think about what happens to your neck when the windscreen frame collapses, even if you have a rollbar. Mine just had a foamectomy on the drivers seat, and personally I didn't have too much problem, or a need to brace myself on the steering wheel. A proper bucket was on the list however.
As someone else said, it is a pretty light car - I'd just make sure it's in reasonable mechanical order, track it and see.
Yes, saving my life if I do a trackday or two should be the main reason for it!While we're at it, I'd seriously question fitting full harnesses to anything without a proper cage. In the worst case you have some scope to get folded up into the car in a regular set of belts. With a full harness immobilising your upper body, have a think about what happens to your neck when the windscreen frame collapses, even if you have a rollbar. Mine just had a foamectomy on the drivers seat, and personally I didn't have too much problem, or a need to brace myself on the steering wheel. A proper bucket was on the list however.
As someone else said, it is a pretty light car - I'd just make sure it's in reasonable mechanical order, track it and see.
johnwilliams77 said:
Improved handling / feel noticeable?
I hadn't really driven it much before I had it fitted and the suspension is pretty bad anyway, so I didn't feel much difference. Might fit door bars later. Big difference fitting Gaz coil overs on front though, really must fit the rears...Mines had the seat foamectomy but really want to get some proper seats. I got Sabelt 4 point harnesses, wrap around the harness bar, and they certainly hold you in place. Standard belts still in place for road use and MOT.
Actually it's a GPX roll bar that they don't seem to list on their site, I think the GPV would be equally as good though.
I've also added a strut brace and have chassis braces to fit (all cheap S/H).
Mark
johnwilliams77 said:
Thanks for post mark
I have put my name down in mx5 nutz as there is currently a group buy deal on
Not sure I want to hear about group deals... must look at mx5nutz more often.I have put my name down in mx5 nutz as there is currently a group buy deal on
Previous owner to me fitted Pagrid pads and I think better fluid, I've got a set of 1.8 discs, calipers and carriers to fit at some point though. My only issue with brakes is that they rust up as it doesn't get used much.
Just booked up for the Abingdon track day on Friday. Might be interesting with the Gaz coil overs only fitted at the front...
If your budget doesn't stretch to a bucket seat, I've tracked mine with a CG-lock and the foam removed from the seatback and felt perfectly stable in the car. Sure a bucket and harnesses would still be an improvement, but I wouldn't necessarily prioritise them.
I would prioritise suspension. Get a fully adjustable kit, too. I bought Gaz fixed height dampers and they're a compromise. I should have spent the extra on a fully-adjustable set that I could get just as I wanted.
I would strongly recommend ditching the PAS too. Preferably by the flyinmiata method. This hugely improved the feel and tactility of my car, and I rue the trackdays I did before I ditched the PAS. Without PAS, the car inspires a lot more confidence.
I bought a car with a half-cage already installed, but there was a definite improvement in the stiffness of the car over other MX-5s I'd tried before buying. I can't help with the make, as I think it's something obscure and Japanese...
I would prioritise suspension. Get a fully adjustable kit, too. I bought Gaz fixed height dampers and they're a compromise. I should have spent the extra on a fully-adjustable set that I could get just as I wanted.
I would strongly recommend ditching the PAS too. Preferably by the flyinmiata method. This hugely improved the feel and tactility of my car, and I rue the trackdays I did before I ditched the PAS. Without PAS, the car inspires a lot more confidence.
I bought a car with a half-cage already installed, but there was a definite improvement in the stiffness of the car over other MX-5s I'd tried before buying. I can't help with the make, as I think it's something obscure and Japanese...
Aha! I have done this myself in the past, I bought a faded red 1.6 (when I lived in Japan) and tracked it. It ended up with carbs on it and purple (dubbed the purple monster) and the chap who has it now has done a hell of a lot more to it since it left me!
Some really good points here, given your budget, I would do the following:
- Brakes on the 1.8 are upgraded vs the 1.6 anyway so you may be OK just with some new pads (I am a massive fan of the endless pads so maybe try a set of them)
- Strip out everything, I saved a huge amount of weight, carpets, door linings and the HOOD!
- Get a cheap hard top (move quick or wait till the summer) should be able to get one for 150-200 quid
- Get decent suspension, remember old used suspension will not be as good as new suspension so choose carefully and balance brand and age if buying used (I bought quantum suspension for mine but that was a huge amount of money – but the best mod I did for read handling – bar none)
- Get a cage, something with side bars as the rigidity makes another big difference to the road handling
- Get decent strut braces
- Other than that the obvious things have been mentioned, rocker cover gaskets go on these, so change it, good oil (I used motul) service the brakes
- Then breathing and farting, fitting a quick and dirty induction kit is easy, then try to get a decent 4-1 and exhaust, again, this is somewhere where a quality part will make the difference between adding value and just making a bit more noise.
Good luck, you will have so much fun. I will be back in Japan later this year so shout if you want me to stick anything in particular in a container.
Some really good points here, given your budget, I would do the following:
- Brakes on the 1.8 are upgraded vs the 1.6 anyway so you may be OK just with some new pads (I am a massive fan of the endless pads so maybe try a set of them)
- Strip out everything, I saved a huge amount of weight, carpets, door linings and the HOOD!
- Get a cheap hard top (move quick or wait till the summer) should be able to get one for 150-200 quid
- Get decent suspension, remember old used suspension will not be as good as new suspension so choose carefully and balance brand and age if buying used (I bought quantum suspension for mine but that was a huge amount of money – but the best mod I did for read handling – bar none)
- Get a cage, something with side bars as the rigidity makes another big difference to the road handling
- Get decent strut braces
- Other than that the obvious things have been mentioned, rocker cover gaskets go on these, so change it, good oil (I used motul) service the brakes
- Then breathing and farting, fitting a quick and dirty induction kit is easy, then try to get a decent 4-1 and exhaust, again, this is somewhere where a quality part will make the difference between adding value and just making a bit more noise.
Good luck, you will have so much fun. I will be back in Japan later this year so shout if you want me to stick anything in particular in a container.
Thanks for all the input.
In reality my distant memory of track days 25 years ago before they were even a 'thing' and called track days, just owners club meets, was brake fade and tyres going off. So it will be new standard discs, new track day pads, racing fluid and braided hoses. Tyres are tired anyway and so Nankangs or Federal 595s, not really after grip and lap times just consistency and resistance to going all squirmy. Before we start is safety and so bucket seat, roll bar with harness bar and a pair of 4 points. Over the winter we will change all fluids/ hoses etc and aim for reliability and then start.
However I expect that we will end up with coil overs in the long run but have some fun and do a few track days first with a view to having taken sensible precautions on safety and reliability.
In reality my distant memory of track days 25 years ago before they were even a 'thing' and called track days, just owners club meets, was brake fade and tyres going off. So it will be new standard discs, new track day pads, racing fluid and braided hoses. Tyres are tired anyway and so Nankangs or Federal 595s, not really after grip and lap times just consistency and resistance to going all squirmy. Before we start is safety and so bucket seat, roll bar with harness bar and a pair of 4 points. Over the winter we will change all fluids/ hoses etc and aim for reliability and then start.
However I expect that we will end up with coil overs in the long run but have some fun and do a few track days first with a view to having taken sensible precautions on safety and reliability.
edoverheels said:
Thanks for all the input.
In reality my distant memory of track days 25 years ago before they were even a 'thing' and called track days, just owners club meets, was brake fade and tyres going off. So it will be new standard discs, new track day pads, racing fluid and braided hoses. Tyres are tired anyway and so Nankangs or Federal 595s, not really after grip and lap times just consistency and resistance to going all squirmy. Before we start is safety and so bucket seat, roll bar with harness bar and a pair of 4 points. Over the winter we will change all fluids/ hoses etc and aim for reliability and then start.
However I expect that we will end up with coil overs in the long run but have some fun and do a few track days first with a view to having taken sensible precautions on safety and reliability.
I used AD08Rs on my MX5. Not as grippy as things like R888s but utterly consistent for long sessions and amazingly low wear. I've got 595s on my Vortx which are also good but maybe wear out quicker (although they're on a much faster car so not a fair comparison.In reality my distant memory of track days 25 years ago before they were even a 'thing' and called track days, just owners club meets, was brake fade and tyres going off. So it will be new standard discs, new track day pads, racing fluid and braided hoses. Tyres are tired anyway and so Nankangs or Federal 595s, not really after grip and lap times just consistency and resistance to going all squirmy. Before we start is safety and so bucket seat, roll bar with harness bar and a pair of 4 points. Over the winter we will change all fluids/ hoses etc and aim for reliability and then start.
However I expect that we will end up with coil overs in the long run but have some fun and do a few track days first with a view to having taken sensible precautions on safety and reliability.
I have a 1994 1.8. Upgrades I have done are as follows
1) yellowstuff pads - great for track fine for road no need to change the discs from standard.
2) bucket seats - great for track ok for road with a cushion (I am middle aged , whippersnappers will probably be fine )
3) Nankang NS2R for speed events Kumho Ecatsa HS51 for road and autosolo
4) TRlane roll bar
5) Meister R suspension as the cusco coilovers it had were very tired
6) ATE type 200 brake fluid
The pads made a massive difference but I would recommend upgrading the fluid as well, the biggest improvement was the suspension change
everything else made small differences
the rollbar reduced skuttle shake and made the car feel tighter, I also had the alignment done which made a noticeable difference but nothing compared to the change in suspensions same with a brace bar in the engine bay, the difference was barely noticeable, just made the front feel a little tighter.
things to do when funds allow
alloy rad for worry free drifting
braided brake lines when the existing standard ones need changing
then onto expensive power mods ................
So I would say from my experience, cheapest change for most benefit is yellowstuff pads and upgraded fluid
spend time on mx5nutz for group buys and member discounts , and mx5oc is good as well
1) yellowstuff pads - great for track fine for road no need to change the discs from standard.
2) bucket seats - great for track ok for road with a cushion (I am middle aged , whippersnappers will probably be fine )
3) Nankang NS2R for speed events Kumho Ecatsa HS51 for road and autosolo
4) TRlane roll bar
5) Meister R suspension as the cusco coilovers it had were very tired
6) ATE type 200 brake fluid
The pads made a massive difference but I would recommend upgrading the fluid as well, the biggest improvement was the suspension change
everything else made small differences
the rollbar reduced skuttle shake and made the car feel tighter, I also had the alignment done which made a noticeable difference but nothing compared to the change in suspensions same with a brace bar in the engine bay, the difference was barely noticeable, just made the front feel a little tighter.
things to do when funds allow
alloy rad for worry free drifting
braided brake lines when the existing standard ones need changing
then onto expensive power mods ................
So I would say from my experience, cheapest change for most benefit is yellowstuff pads and upgraded fluid
spend time on mx5nutz for group buys and member discounts , and mx5oc is good as well
I've got a 1996 1.8 eunos that we've modified bit by bit over the last two years. Starting out fresh, i'd do the following in order listed:
1) Complete service - oil, filters, gearbox oil, diff oil +/- spark plugs & fuel filter
2) Yellowstuff pads (superb)
3) Brake fluid change - we use motul RBF600. (+/- braided hoses - for majority of road driving, I think the pedal feel is less aggressive with normal hoses, but I love the solid feel of braided hoses on track)
4) Geometry set-up - WIM (http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/wheels-alignment.php) or Cleverly Performance (http://www.mx5expert.com/) are very highly rated for this
5)TR lane roll bar
6)Uprated tyres - we use Federal RSR - truly superb, but perhaps over-grip the car though.
7) Suspension changes - we used eibach springs with standard bilstein dampers and lowered the ride height a little before getting the geo redone at cleverly performance. The result is spectacular vs. standard. I've driven various demo cars with gaz golds or tein coilovers and can safely say, if your budget permits, its well worth the extra for the better ride quality. Bushes can be uprated when doing this.
8) Power. Turbo....ours goes on this Christmas...
1) Complete service - oil, filters, gearbox oil, diff oil +/- spark plugs & fuel filter
2) Yellowstuff pads (superb)
3) Brake fluid change - we use motul RBF600. (+/- braided hoses - for majority of road driving, I think the pedal feel is less aggressive with normal hoses, but I love the solid feel of braided hoses on track)
4) Geometry set-up - WIM (http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/wheels-alignment.php) or Cleverly Performance (http://www.mx5expert.com/) are very highly rated for this
5)TR lane roll bar
6)Uprated tyres - we use Federal RSR - truly superb, but perhaps over-grip the car though.
7) Suspension changes - we used eibach springs with standard bilstein dampers and lowered the ride height a little before getting the geo redone at cleverly performance. The result is spectacular vs. standard. I've driven various demo cars with gaz golds or tein coilovers and can safely say, if your budget permits, its well worth the extra for the better ride quality. Bushes can be uprated when doing this.
8) Power. Turbo....ours goes on this Christmas...
It's a slippery slope this roll bar thing!
Problem is all of these products are designed to fit under a soft top. Which makes the final height quite low. If you look at images of these things fitted you will see with standard seats or a bucket on rails the drivers head sits proud.
The only way we would get our heads lower than the top of the bar is by side mounting a seat directly to the floor plan. We welded in box section cross members also as the floor is pretty soft.
It's Also worth having arm restraints so your arms doing fly out of the cab during a roll. Google mark leech!
Shopping list is pretty extensive then to do it properly.
5 Point harnesses ( out of date fia stuff comes up cheap)
Side mount seat
Side mounts
Roll bar
Arm restraints (optional)
Should see most of your budget gone!
Here is my old one, see what I mean about slippery slope...
Problem is all of these products are designed to fit under a soft top. Which makes the final height quite low. If you look at images of these things fitted you will see with standard seats or a bucket on rails the drivers head sits proud.
The only way we would get our heads lower than the top of the bar is by side mounting a seat directly to the floor plan. We welded in box section cross members also as the floor is pretty soft.
It's Also worth having arm restraints so your arms doing fly out of the cab during a roll. Google mark leech!
Shopping list is pretty extensive then to do it properly.
5 Point harnesses ( out of date fia stuff comes up cheap)
Side mount seat
Side mounts
Roll bar
Arm restraints (optional)
Should see most of your budget gone!
Here is my old one, see what I mean about slippery slope...
TRLane uses CDS now and has done for a while
http://www.trlanefabs.co.uk/home_21.html
GCF are recommended and, if you can find one, hard dog
http://www.trlanefabs.co.uk/home_21.html
GCF are recommended and, if you can find one, hard dog
edoverheels said:
Will service car and change all fluids of course including all brake fluid. I had assumed changing pads and putting suitable tyres on. Then a cage/roll bar and harness and coil overs when funds allow. Will depend of course on how we get on in the meantime!
Thanks for the input
Not sure about too much lightening because it will stay road legal, again, we will see I guess.
Look at GCFabrications when you are ready to buy a rollbar, better pricing, better build quality from what I've heard and I believe the TR Lane ones now do not come with a harness bar as standard, the GCFab ones do (Mine certainly did)Thanks for the input
Not sure about too much lightening because it will stay road legal, again, we will see I guess.
Have just bought a GC Fabrications roll bar after a group buy with MXNutz went sour. Very good service etc and will try and fit it at the weekend. Have also ordered Nankangs and Meistr Rs are on the way.
Since buying MX5 I had been hugely underwhelmed and couldn't understand the hype even allowing for the baggy suspension and crap tyres (my every day car is an S2000)
Then I drove it for a whole week during some warm weather (last week) and on a few days the road had dried out. It was hilarious, sane speeds and the confidence to throw it at corners and experience understeer and oversteer and everything in between at your choice. It was huge fun and I couldn't wait to sort out the suspension and brakes and get it on a track.
The Honda is much better of course, in an analytical sense. Much faster, much better control of body movement, engine and gearbox cannot be beaten and a noise to die for (no air box). However really getting hard and getting some movement around corners rather than just being very neat and tidy whilst pushing at the edges is an act of faith and commitment.
I absolutely adore the Honda and every mile in it is a pleasure and wonder in the age of electronics and paddle shifts if I will ever own a better car but I often drive it with a frown of concentration whereas the MX5 I was laughing out loud and singing along with the music that the VTEC has normally drowned out.
I'm not really making a point I suppose. Just everything is different but a lot of it is fun. Looking forward to my first MX5 track day.
Since buying MX5 I had been hugely underwhelmed and couldn't understand the hype even allowing for the baggy suspension and crap tyres (my every day car is an S2000)
Then I drove it for a whole week during some warm weather (last week) and on a few days the road had dried out. It was hilarious, sane speeds and the confidence to throw it at corners and experience understeer and oversteer and everything in between at your choice. It was huge fun and I couldn't wait to sort out the suspension and brakes and get it on a track.
The Honda is much better of course, in an analytical sense. Much faster, much better control of body movement, engine and gearbox cannot be beaten and a noise to die for (no air box). However really getting hard and getting some movement around corners rather than just being very neat and tidy whilst pushing at the edges is an act of faith and commitment.
I absolutely adore the Honda and every mile in it is a pleasure and wonder in the age of electronics and paddle shifts if I will ever own a better car but I often drive it with a frown of concentration whereas the MX5 I was laughing out loud and singing along with the music that the VTEC has normally drowned out.
I'm not really making a point I suppose. Just everything is different but a lot of it is fun. Looking forward to my first MX5 track day.
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