MR2 Roadster trackday drivers chip in
Discussion
Ok done my first trackday event in the MR2 roadster and realised what a fun car it is but also that a couple of tweeks could be made.
On std road pressures the front end was understeering quite badly while any attempt at gentle lift off provoked the rear out into fairly decent lift off oversteer. It's on mundane Dunlop road tyres and the track was cold and greasy. Dropping the front pressures eventually got it turning in nicely and well balanced and I really enjoyed the day. The balance isn't far off as it is. The front body roll was noticeable so I'm thinking -30 mm tte springs as I quote like the damping levels.
The steering wheel is too large and is coming off asap for a momo.
Brakes were fine, abused and held up (dot 4 high boiling point plus new oe pads)
It was similar in speed and handling to the usual elises and mx5s but you could envisage a few minor tweaks making it turn in harder and a bit less roll.
I can get a decent set of shocks n lowered springs fitted for 130 quid 2nd hand so that's an obvious next step.
Anyone else done much to theirs for trackday use while retaining the road capabilities? I have a TRD copy chassis brace already.
On std road pressures the front end was understeering quite badly while any attempt at gentle lift off provoked the rear out into fairly decent lift off oversteer. It's on mundane Dunlop road tyres and the track was cold and greasy. Dropping the front pressures eventually got it turning in nicely and well balanced and I really enjoyed the day. The balance isn't far off as it is. The front body roll was noticeable so I'm thinking -30 mm tte springs as I quote like the damping levels.
The steering wheel is too large and is coming off asap for a momo.
Brakes were fine, abused and held up (dot 4 high boiling point plus new oe pads)
It was similar in speed and handling to the usual elises and mx5s but you could envisage a few minor tweaks making it turn in harder and a bit less roll.
I can get a decent set of shocks n lowered springs fitted for 130 quid 2nd hand so that's an obvious next step.
Anyone else done much to theirs for trackday use while retaining the road capabilities? I have a TRD copy chassis brace already.
When I had mine I just enjoyed it as standard. But from memory common upgrades were the TTE lowering springs, or BC coilovers for more track focus. Also, if yours is prefacelift there is underside bracing to add to stiffen it.
There was also a guy who destroyed the engine through oil starvation, so an Eliseparts baffled sump might be an idea if you use sticky tyres.
There was also a guy who destroyed the engine through oil starvation, so an Eliseparts baffled sump might be an idea if you use sticky tyres.
The TTE springs or Teins are a good value upgrade and dont compromise the road comfort - I actually found the teins more comfortable than the stock springs.
Meister R coilovers are a more expensive, but far better option. Firm but brilliant damping and not uncomfortable at all. And of course they are adjustable so you can drive there valved soft, then turn them up on arrival to the circuit should you wish - There is a group buy on the owners club forum at the moment which needs names on the list! It works out cheaper than a OEM suspension refresh.
You already have the chassis bracing upgrade which is a great upgrade, I have the 2zz in mine and even with the extra power the stock brakes are fine on a track day.
Otherwise, get a good set of tyres on it. You can go up to 195 on the front to give you a bit better turn in without turning it into a deathtrap.
Meister R coilovers are a more expensive, but far better option. Firm but brilliant damping and not uncomfortable at all. And of course they are adjustable so you can drive there valved soft, then turn them up on arrival to the circuit should you wish - There is a group buy on the owners club forum at the moment which needs names on the list! It works out cheaper than a OEM suspension refresh.
You already have the chassis bracing upgrade which is a great upgrade, I have the 2zz in mine and even with the extra power the stock brakes are fine on a track day.
Otherwise, get a good set of tyres on it. You can go up to 195 on the front to give you a bit better turn in without turning it into a deathtrap.
If you haven't already, a front strut brace is a must-do on these cars, improves turn in and feel no end. The TTE underbody brace will also massively help remove any twist from the chassis.
You may want to consider changing the ARBs too, I run Whiteline on mine and they do the job. I also run BC suspension too, but in honesty the OEM dampers with the TTE springs are a solid combo. I ran that on my first MR2 on road and track, and had no issues.
Very little else is worth doing, for a road and track car. Mine is stripped down to about 900kg and with the SP230 turbo kit on it, it's a lovely little track toy for absolute peanuts. It's actually my 4th MR2, I really should just keep this one!
You may want to consider changing the ARBs too, I run Whiteline on mine and they do the job. I also run BC suspension too, but in honesty the OEM dampers with the TTE springs are a solid combo. I ran that on my first MR2 on road and track, and had no issues.
Very little else is worth doing, for a road and track car. Mine is stripped down to about 900kg and with the SP230 turbo kit on it, it's a lovely little track toy for absolute peanuts. It's actually my 4th MR2, I really should just keep this one!
Just what I wanted to hear. Which brace did you fit and did you have to butcher the plastic liner jobby?
I'm getting a set of second hand but mint shocks and lowered springs in 2 weeks for a very bargain price. Absolute hoot on track once I'd dropped the front tyres pressure to make it work better.
Perfect track car with turbo kit?
I'm getting a set of second hand but mint shocks and lowered springs in 2 weeks for a very bargain price. Absolute hoot on track once I'd dropped the front tyres pressure to make it work better.
Perfect track car with turbo kit?
Here is mine
Full spec list is getting quite long now but main modifications are; 2ZZ-GE Engine swap, Underbody brace, Cusco front strut brace, Federal RSR's, Eliseparts sump, 6 speed box, 4.529 final drive, LSD, custom induction, Zorstec 4-1 manifold, 100cel cat, P&P half cage, Willans harnesses, Monaco Pros, BC Coilovers, BattleVersion rose jointed rear arms, polybushed front arms, Carbon front pads, braided hoses. Goes and handles nicely.
Full spec list is getting quite long now but main modifications are; 2ZZ-GE Engine swap, Underbody brace, Cusco front strut brace, Federal RSR's, Eliseparts sump, 6 speed box, 4.529 final drive, LSD, custom induction, Zorstec 4-1 manifold, 100cel cat, P&P half cage, Willans harnesses, Monaco Pros, BC Coilovers, BattleVersion rose jointed rear arms, polybushed front arms, Carbon front pads, braided hoses. Goes and handles nicely.
Bit of input here from a TVR Chimaera driver - 1100 kgs of RWD track and road fun, so not so dissimilar to the MR2.
Much of it said above. I do 8-10 track days a year, as many of you do i have no doubt.
Federal 595 RSR tyres were on my TVR for all of last year, road and track..
Great road tyre in all but a total downpour, but give similar levels of grip on a dry track as Toyo R888s, Yoko AD08s etc, and only cost around £250-£300 a set in 17 inch/215 width, so might well be cheaper in MR2 sizes.
I agree about the baffled sump - fast changes of direction on track can send all your oil to one side of the sump, with drastic consequences. I fitted an extended baffled one to my Rover V8 engine. Only downside is the 9.5 litres per oil change.....but yousr will only need about half that.
A good set of adjustable dampers makes your car adaptable to the conditions and improves the handling no end.
Finally, don't skimp on set up - mine has regular 4 wheel alignments on a full Hunter aligner. Bit of extra camber at the front (just half a degree). Handling before/after is night and day.
Much of it said above. I do 8-10 track days a year, as many of you do i have no doubt.
Federal 595 RSR tyres were on my TVR for all of last year, road and track..
Great road tyre in all but a total downpour, but give similar levels of grip on a dry track as Toyo R888s, Yoko AD08s etc, and only cost around £250-£300 a set in 17 inch/215 width, so might well be cheaper in MR2 sizes.
I agree about the baffled sump - fast changes of direction on track can send all your oil to one side of the sump, with drastic consequences. I fitted an extended baffled one to my Rover V8 engine. Only downside is the 9.5 litres per oil change.....but yousr will only need about half that.
A good set of adjustable dampers makes your car adaptable to the conditions and improves the handling no end.
Finally, don't skimp on set up - mine has regular 4 wheel alignments on a full Hunter aligner. Bit of extra camber at the front (just half a degree). Handling before/after is night and day.
That mr2 must be close to perfect for trackdays.
It's tempting to chuck money at mine but equally I've seen a few converted cars coming up for sale that look bargains.
Been out in mine today with momo wheel fitted and it's a massive improvement over stock. I can now get legs under and heel n toe if needed.
It's tempting to chuck money at mine but equally I've seen a few converted cars coming up for sale that look bargains.
Been out in mine today with momo wheel fitted and it's a massive improvement over stock. I can now get legs under and heel n toe if needed.
200Plus Club said:
That mr2 must be close to perfect for trackdays.
It's tempting to chuck money at mine but equally I've seen a few converted cars coming up for sale that look bargains.
Been out in mine today with momo wheel fitted and it's a massive improvement over stock. I can now get legs under and heel n toe if needed.
Hi,It's tempting to chuck money at mine but equally I've seen a few converted cars coming up for sale that look bargains.
Been out in mine today with momo wheel fitted and it's a massive improvement over stock. I can now get legs under and heel n toe if needed.
Don't buy a cheap converted 2zz unless you are prepared to spend a bit of money on it. They need a few things to make them reliable on track (baffled sump etc) and dependant on what conversion parts have been used (i.e. gearbox choice, ECU choice, exhaust manifold choice) it can make for a very different 2zz experience.
The one you were looking at on ebay, was that the silver one that uses a bit if oil?
smiles1 said:
Hi,
Don't buy a cheap converted 2zz unless you are prepared to spend a bit of money on it. They need a few things to make them reliable on track (baffled sump etc) and dependant on what conversion parts have been used (i.e. gearbox choice, ECU choice, exhaust manifold choice) it can make for a very different 2zz experience.
The one you were looking at on ebay, was that the silver one that uses a bit if oil?
I'd echo this, I did everything myself other than swapping the LSD into the Corolla box (requires some fairly specialist tools to preload the diff bearings) and the costs still really add up, I could have bought a ready converted one for quite a bit less, but I have seen some really ropey looking conversions. The problem is the cars themselves cost next to nothing so a lot of conversions cut corners.Don't buy a cheap converted 2zz unless you are prepared to spend a bit of money on it. They need a few things to make them reliable on track (baffled sump etc) and dependant on what conversion parts have been used (i.e. gearbox choice, ECU choice, exhaust manifold choice) it can make for a very different 2zz experience.
The one you were looking at on ebay, was that the silver one that uses a bit if oil?
Things to consider are
Decent donor engines are getting hard to find, I bought a one owner lowish miles Corolla T Sport with FSH, it almost seemed a shame to strip it..
If you buy all ready made bits like dipstick conversion, ECU loom adaptor from the states it adds up even more (I did this stuff myself to save money)
If you do it yourself to a high standard you will not get your money back
On the plus side the car is great fun, it's quick enough for me and is just over 900kg so stops and corners really well. Sounds really good in lift too..
Oh I almost forgot one of the best mods I made was a TTV lightweight flywheel, really improves the throttle response.
Front strut brace sounds interesting, a few varieties around. Ideally want one you can retain trunk liner without cutting.
Getting some shocks and -30 mm springs on the 13th hopefully them another trackday shortly after.
Longer term maybe a 190 conversion or buy a car done well (when you are ready to sell :-)
Getting some shocks and -30 mm springs on the 13th hopefully them another trackday shortly after.
Longer term maybe a 190 conversion or buy a car done well (when you are ready to sell :-)
Babw said:
Ekona, slightly off topic but I see you've had MX5, MR2 and VX220. Which one do you think is the best for majority track use?
Having had all these cars, the VX unquestionably. The MR2 and MX5 can be made to handle well but the VX is awesome in std form. Its also light and so isn't hard on tyres of brakes.Gassing Station | Track Days | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff