Impreza track day car.
Discussion
You'll want to lose as much weight as possible,
change the brakes,
and the suspension,
and do something about the cooling,
I'm sure I'll remember the rest later
Seriously, an Impreza is not a good track car straight out of the box. It is too heavy and soft, and you'll spend a fortune on consumables.
change the brakes,
and the suspension,
and do something about the cooling,
I'm sure I'll remember the rest later
Seriously, an Impreza is not a good track car straight out of the box. It is too heavy and soft, and you'll spend a fortune on consumables.
Edited by DocJock on Sunday 15th October 18:55
Hi David,
I am in the process of changing my 2001 WRX into a track oriented weapon! I tracked it when near standard and it wasn't slow and handled well, but I'm a bit of a fiddler.
I'd advise:
- handling mods; inc whiteline rear ARB, various strut braces, whiteline anti-lift kit, and then maybe uprated springs/dampers at some point
- brakes... fit STi gold brembos if you haven't, on the front
- power; get it up to 280bhp then leave alone for longevity
- weight loss - biggest single gain is probably junking the seats and putting GRP buckets in. But after mounts, runners, harnesses, harness bar, you're looking at a grand minimum - and standard seats aren't bad to be honest. Avoid carbonfibre body bits. I bought a c/f bonnet for a lot of dosh and it's only a few ounces lighter. If I had the balls I'd remove rear seat as well, but starts looking bare and untidy if you do that (a lesson I have learnt!).
- safety mods... roll cages very rare, expensive and impractical... only worth doing for motorsport. I imported a harness bar from the states for a couple of hundred quid, so I can run harnesses. You could fit extinguisher and battery cut out without a big problem
It's a great car, the bugeye, but not that light. And once you start tuning them up they get expensive. Best always to get one already 'tuned', but at least tuning bits aren't that expensive and lots of spares out there.
I am in the process of changing my 2001 WRX into a track oriented weapon! I tracked it when near standard and it wasn't slow and handled well, but I'm a bit of a fiddler.
I'd advise:
- handling mods; inc whiteline rear ARB, various strut braces, whiteline anti-lift kit, and then maybe uprated springs/dampers at some point
- brakes... fit STi gold brembos if you haven't, on the front
- power; get it up to 280bhp then leave alone for longevity
- weight loss - biggest single gain is probably junking the seats and putting GRP buckets in. But after mounts, runners, harnesses, harness bar, you're looking at a grand minimum - and standard seats aren't bad to be honest. Avoid carbonfibre body bits. I bought a c/f bonnet for a lot of dosh and it's only a few ounces lighter. If I had the balls I'd remove rear seat as well, but starts looking bare and untidy if you do that (a lesson I have learnt!).
- safety mods... roll cages very rare, expensive and impractical... only worth doing for motorsport. I imported a harness bar from the states for a couple of hundred quid, so I can run harnesses. You could fit extinguisher and battery cut out without a big problem
It's a great car, the bugeye, but not that light. And once you start tuning them up they get expensive. Best always to get one already 'tuned', but at least tuning bits aren't that expensive and lots of spares out there.
domster said:
Hi David,
I am in the process of changing my 2001 WRX into a track oriented weapon! I tracked it when near standard and it wasn't slow and handled well, but I'm a bit of a fiddler.
I'd advise:
- handling mods; inc whiteline rear ARB, various strut braces, whiteline anti-lift kit, and then maybe uprated springs/dampers at some point
- brakes... fit STi gold brembos if you haven't, on the front
- power; get it up to 280bhp then leave alone for longevity
- weight loss - biggest single gain is probably junking the seats and putting GRP buckets in. But after mounts, runners, harnesses, harness bar, you're looking at a grand minimum - and standard seats aren't bad to be honest. Avoid carbonfibre body bits. I bought a c/f bonnet for a lot of dosh and it's only a few ounces lighter. If I had the balls I'd remove rear seat as well, but starts looking bare and untidy if you do that (a lesson I have learnt!).
- safety mods... roll cages very rare, expensive and impractical... only worth doing for motorsport. I imported a harness bar from the states for a couple of hundred quid, so I can run harnesses. You could fit extinguisher and battery cut out without a big problem
It's a great car, the bugeye, but not that light. And once you start tuning them up they get expensive. Best always to get one already 'tuned', but at least tuning bits aren't that expensive and lots of spares out there.
I am in the process of changing my 2001 WRX into a track oriented weapon! I tracked it when near standard and it wasn't slow and handled well, but I'm a bit of a fiddler.
I'd advise:
- handling mods; inc whiteline rear ARB, various strut braces, whiteline anti-lift kit, and then maybe uprated springs/dampers at some point
- brakes... fit STi gold brembos if you haven't, on the front
- power; get it up to 280bhp then leave alone for longevity
- weight loss - biggest single gain is probably junking the seats and putting GRP buckets in. But after mounts, runners, harnesses, harness bar, you're looking at a grand minimum - and standard seats aren't bad to be honest. Avoid carbonfibre body bits. I bought a c/f bonnet for a lot of dosh and it's only a few ounces lighter. If I had the balls I'd remove rear seat as well, but starts looking bare and untidy if you do that (a lesson I have learnt!).
- safety mods... roll cages very rare, expensive and impractical... only worth doing for motorsport. I imported a harness bar from the states for a couple of hundred quid, so I can run harnesses. You could fit extinguisher and battery cut out without a big problem
It's a great car, the bugeye, but not that light. And once you start tuning them up they get expensive. Best always to get one already 'tuned', but at least tuning bits aren't that expensive and lots of spares out there.
Hey thanks for this.. would like to know how your car is going. Mine is a 2001 last of the classic shape.. I think for the climate we get in the UK its got to be a decent car once its done..
David,
The rough spec of my classic is here www.pistonheads.com/members/showcar.asp?carId=24924
If it is going to be mainly a track car I would strongly advise junking the road suspension, which has far too much dive and roll. The dive kills your front brakes and the roll murders your tyres when you are going anywhere near fast. A track biased geometry willalso make a big difference (I use PowerStation in Tewkesbury)
Regarding brakes, the STi Brembos are better than standard, but you can go up another level yet with AP/Alcon etc. Over the years I've had standard, STi Brembos , Brembo MotorSport and AP. Whatever you do, make sure you upgrade the brake lines and maintain your fluid.
Safety Devices used to do a bolt in, removable 1/2 cage and these occasionally come up for sale on ScoobyNet/SIDC. It's normally recommended you have some sort of cage if you're going to use harnesses because of your fixed position when strapped in. A CG Lock is a good halfway measure between belt and harness.
I learned about mine the hard way, and it is rewarding but it will never be cheap running an Impreza as a track car. You can easily kill a set of Pagids in less than a day (>£200) and the same for tyres.
The rough spec of my classic is here www.pistonheads.com/members/showcar.asp?carId=24924
If it is going to be mainly a track car I would strongly advise junking the road suspension, which has far too much dive and roll. The dive kills your front brakes and the roll murders your tyres when you are going anywhere near fast. A track biased geometry willalso make a big difference (I use PowerStation in Tewkesbury)
Regarding brakes, the STi Brembos are better than standard, but you can go up another level yet with AP/Alcon etc. Over the years I've had standard, STi Brembos , Brembo MotorSport and AP. Whatever you do, make sure you upgrade the brake lines and maintain your fluid.
Safety Devices used to do a bolt in, removable 1/2 cage and these occasionally come up for sale on ScoobyNet/SIDC. It's normally recommended you have some sort of cage if you're going to use harnesses because of your fixed position when strapped in. A CG Lock is a good halfway measure between belt and harness.
I learned about mine the hard way, and it is rewarding but it will never be cheap running an Impreza as a track car. You can easily kill a set of Pagids in less than a day (>£200) and the same for tyres.
David, sorry, ignore some of what I said as I was referring to 2001 WRX bugeye not classic (changeover years are a pain, eh!). You will find many more cheap roll cages and your car is much lighter as standard - although not as stiff a chassis - so consider the strut braces etc.
As for the iggy, we will have to do a trackday away from the badgers at bedford and see if your little golf can keep up
I seem to remember a certain Subaru driver telling me that he was at Brands when you spun in front of him as you tried in vain to hold him off 
As for the iggy, we will have to do a trackday away from the badgers at bedford and see if your little golf can keep up
I seem to remember a certain Subaru driver telling me that he was at Brands when you spun in front of him as you tried in vain to hold him off Edited by domster on Tuesday 17th October 12:49
domster said:
As for the iggy, we will have to do a trackday away from the badgers at bedford and see if your little golf can keep up I seem to remember a certain Subaru driver telling me that he was at Brands when you spun in front of him as you tried in vain to hold him off
I seem to remember a certain Subaru driver telling me that he was at Brands when you spun in front of him as you tried in vain to hold him off Well 320+ bhp £10+k engine, lightweight & tons of mods with a skinny driver with talent vs a piddly 180 ish & a fat heavy driver I wasnt doing too bad!
Nah Bedford is ok but not really gagging to go back, just done Zandvoort for 1st time at wk end- now thats a really ace track, sort of a cross between Oulton & Spa, can't belive Holland can have hills! Track all day, then 25 mins away ogle hookers & enjoy the night in the 'dam, cracking track wk end combo
Should be at Donny in couple of wks if you are up for it? I'll even take the van if you want so we can get that ricer of yours home after you've stuffed it badger boy
pentoman said:
I am wondering, is an Impreza or similar any worse on tyres and brakes than a similar weight RWD car?
I don't think it's that bad really. Brakes are eaten by weight and at 1200 for a classic scoob and 1400 for a newage, they're not outrageously heavy... a newage weighs about the same as a 911 and less than a modern M3 or S4. But they will use more brake pads than say a Golf Mk2 or a Seven etc. That said, pads aren't that pricey anyway. I picked a set up recently for 50 GBP for the fronts second hand, about 80 GBP new. So question 1, probably about the same as for a similar weight RWD car.
As for tyres, they use 225s all round and 4WD gives you pretty even wear. OK, maybe a touch of understeer in the dry, but you can always swap them front to rear. Tyres are 100 GBP per corner and lots available nearly new on ebay etc. I got a set of OEM 17 inch alloys and nearly new tyres for 250 GBP. So question 2... my guess is that a RWD car will be heavier on tyres. I have never thought tyre wear to be excessive.
The key to fun and economics is to get rid of the understeer and dive. An anti-lift kit and upgraded rear anti-roll are key. Mine came with coil overs all round and these are a big plus too. After that I reckon it is all pretty optional apart from the brakes which really need improvement to save on cost and improve performance. Consider a good kit that is compatible with 16" wheels and you can by some very cheap rims and trackday tyres. If you are not too bothered about road civility, the compbrake kits are cheaper than the big names and very good on track with comparatively cheap consumables. Road tyres really will suffer if you slide the thing, which you will so something with nice big tread blocks or nice small grooves is a good plan.
I would agree that 4WD does need a little less 100% for every second type concentration but to get the best out of it still demands a lot of concentration. I find myself being a bit Jekyll and Hyde a couple of laps keeping it all tidy and trying to get it all right by the book. Then let your hair down for a couple. Repeat as required...
I would agree that 4WD does need a little less 100% for every second type concentration but to get the best out of it still demands a lot of concentration. I find myself being a bit Jekyll and Hyde a couple of laps keeping it all tidy and trying to get it all right by the book. Then let your hair down for a couple. Repeat as required...
simond001 said:
Sell it.
Buy a lightweight rwd car desinged to go forwards, not slideways.
Buy a lightweight rwd car desinged to go forwards, not slideways.
Apart from a Caterham or elise, what would you recommend? With Subarus abvailable from 3k I'm not sure what lightweight RWD stuff could offer the same performance and thrills in that price bracket (say 3k-7.5k for newage wrx)?
simond001 said:
Sell it.
Buy a lightweight rwd car desinged to go forwards, not slideways.
Buy a lightweight rwd car desinged to go forwards, not slideways.
Quite agree. If I only needed a car for hooning that's what I would do. As it is mine allows me to have fun on a track, suprise a lot of much more expensive kit, keep me dry when it rains, get the dog in the back, go to the shops, take stuff to the tip and be a lot quicker than a lightweight down a bumpy twisty, slighly damp i.e. real world road. Ya pays ya money as they say.
from my experience, a well-sorted Impreza makes a very fast track car. I'm not comparing to a Caterham or other trackday special, but against all other road cars.
If the power is circa 340bhp or more, with good suspension (the key), brakes and tyres, then there is little to touch one. Also if it has DCCD then leave it fully open and enjoy the complete lack of understeer
If the power is circa 340bhp or more, with good suspension (the key), brakes and tyres, then there is little to touch one. Also if it has DCCD then leave it fully open and enjoy the complete lack of understeer
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