Thoughts on this E36 M3
Discussion
jbaddeley said:
Not selling mine mate. It owes me too much and after a runout in Wales with an RS4 and two TVRs itoday I was reminded why it's a keeper. You'll find one. The hunt is all part of the fun. There's a nice 3.0 for sale on m3 cutters.
http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=122...
In my opinion, that is too expensive for a car with rust issues.http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=122...
Typical of fanboy forum over valuation of their own cars though.
On that basis, what would mine be worth?
Rust free M reg 3.0L saloon in Avus blue with grey leather.
Totally standard, having done 105,000 miles with fsh, in good condition.
But with a blown engine
sim16v said:
In my opinion, that is too expensive for a car with rust issues.
Typical of fanboy forum over valuation of their own cars though.
On that basis, what would mine be worth?
Rust free M reg 3.0L saloon in Avus blue with grey leather.
Totally standard, having done 105,000 miles with fsh, in good condition.
But with a blown engine
If you think that one is overpriced and then ask what yours is worth...Typical of fanboy forum over valuation of their own cars though.
On that basis, what would mine be worth?
Rust free M reg 3.0L saloon in Avus blue with grey leather.
Totally standard, having done 105,000 miles with fsh, in good condition.
But with a blown engine
Being a soon it is not worth as much as a coupe (they just aren't) it has grey leather (the one you say is over valued has black vadars in good condition) his engine works (well). It sounds like the only thing you have going for it is rust free.
Seeing as these engines are now changing hands for around the £3000 mark would really put yours down in value, add fitting on top and you are struggling for £1500 for yours.
Your oil service history will not be worth the paper it is written on if that engine is changed for another. So although you think the above car is overvalued, by the time you have valued yours then repaired it and take into account it is not as valuable as the one above, well, you get the idea.
Just because someone has been honest in there advert, does not mean he is a "fanboy forum user".
sim16v said:
In my opinion, that is too expensive for a car with rust issues.
Typical of fanboy forum over valuation of their own cars though.
On that basis, what would mine be worth?
Rust free M reg 3.0L saloon in Avus blue with grey leather.
Totally standard, having done 105,000 miles with fsh, in good condition.
But with a blown engine
If you think that one is overpriced and then ask what yours is worth...Typical of fanboy forum over valuation of their own cars though.
On that basis, what would mine be worth?
Rust free M reg 3.0L saloon in Avus blue with grey leather.
Totally standard, having done 105,000 miles with fsh, in good condition.
But with a blown engine
Being a soon it is not worth as much as a coupe (they just aren't) it has grey leather (the one you say is over valued has black vadars in good condition) his engine works (well). It sounds like the only thing you have going for it is rust free.
Seeing as these engines are now changing hands for around the £3000 mark would really put yours down in value, add fitting on top and you are struggling for £1500 for yours.
Your oil service history will not be worth the paper it is written on if that engine is changed for another. So although you think the above car is overvalued, by the time you have valued yours then repaired it and take into account it is not as valuable as the one above, well, you get the idea.
Just because someone has been honest in there advert, does not mean he is a "fanboy forum user".
jbaddeley said:
Lot of useful info in there. Or ask me. I seem to have replaced pretty much everything in mine. New discs and calipers this week. Joy.
Vincefox said:
Lot of useful info in there.
Or ask me. I seem to have replaced pretty much everything in mine. New discs and calipers this week. Joy.
Thanks Mr Fox.Or ask me. I seem to have replaced pretty much everything in mine. New discs and calipers this week. Joy.
So my main areas to check are;
Vanos
Brakes
Synchro
General gearbox/clutch feel
Rust
Servicing
Suspension
Bushes
Is there anything else?
There's a car for sale with 180k on the clock which I haven't seen yet but seems pretty nice, obviously I need to see it in the flesh first to make any proper conclusions.
Off top of my head, stuff i done...
Replace vanos solenoid seals and bolts twice.
New discs
New calipers
New exhaust rear.
Rebuilt exhaust flexi (iridium, top bloke)
Complete respray removing rust from rear arches and despoilering
Ds2 sunflowers powdercoated
New windscreen (old one was tired)
Anally ott oil changes (every 3k)
God, there's other stuff but i cant remember. I paid 3.5k for it 4 years ago so it's just about cash neutral on tot up.
Replace vanos solenoid seals and bolts twice.
New discs
New calipers
New exhaust rear.
Rebuilt exhaust flexi (iridium, top bloke)
Complete respray removing rust from rear arches and despoilering
Ds2 sunflowers powdercoated
New windscreen (old one was tired)
Anally ott oil changes (every 3k)
God, there's other stuff but i cant remember. I paid 3.5k for it 4 years ago so it's just about cash neutral on tot up.
Gearbox feels s
te until warmed up, it's due an oil change tho.
One thing i will tell you, if you test drive an evo keep it under 4k until the engine OIL temp is around 70-80. Cold, theyre a bit flat, but once the oil temp is around there it can be driven harder.
Theyre also deceptively quick.
te until warmed up, it's due an oil change tho.One thing i will tell you, if you test drive an evo keep it under 4k until the engine OIL temp is around 70-80. Cold, theyre a bit flat, but once the oil temp is around there it can be driven harder.
Theyre also deceptively quick.
I have SORNd mine so I wont be driving it.
However Vince is correct, like all M cars, they need warming up first before being given the boot. They warm up fairly fast though, usually within 2 miles.
I replaced the transmission oil and it feels much better than before. It does need warming up though before you can slick shift.
The rest is wear and tear really. Remember even the lastest models are 17 years old now. Just find a well looked after example.
Mine was 13 owners but I have spent a small fortune on getting mine right and how an M car should be.
My OCD continues. I have seen the exhaust centre rubbers are slightly perished and causing it to hang down too low and slightly scrape humps. I HAVE to change it otherwise I wont be able to sleep night.
However Vince is correct, like all M cars, they need warming up first before being given the boot. They warm up fairly fast though, usually within 2 miles.
I replaced the transmission oil and it feels much better than before. It does need warming up though before you can slick shift.
The rest is wear and tear really. Remember even the lastest models are 17 years old now. Just find a well looked after example.
Mine was 13 owners but I have spent a small fortune on getting mine right and how an M car should be.
My OCD continues. I have seen the exhaust centre rubbers are slightly perished and causing it to hang down too low and slightly scrape humps. I HAVE to change it otherwise I wont be able to sleep night.
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