Coupe or GC

Coupe or GC

Author
Discussion

RichardM5

1,741 posts

137 months

Wednesday 6th May 2015
quotequote all
I measure it before an oil change to see how much it's gone down.

The Livster

Original Poster:

222 posts

117 months

Thursday 7th May 2015
quotequote all
Thanks

Read of a few people who were quoting 1Ltr added every 1000 miles and wondered if this was the norm, apparently not smile

Andy M

3,755 posts

260 months

Thursday 7th May 2015
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The Livster said:
Thanks

Read of a few people who were quoting 1Ltr added every 1000 miles and wondered if this was the norm, apparently not smile
I've added two refills in 15,000 miles (from new).

Wills2

22,878 posts

176 months

Thursday 7th May 2015
quotequote all
The Livster said:
Thanks

Read of a few people who were quoting 1Ltr added every 1000 miles and wondered if this was the norm, apparently not smile
Only when they don't run them in properly.

The Livster

Original Poster:

222 posts

117 months

Friday 8th May 2015
quotequote all
Wills

Is that per handbook ??

Have read a few comments that it is better to drive them hard for the first 1K miles ??

Wills2

22,878 posts

176 months

Friday 8th May 2015
quotequote all
I've had 4 M cars and always run them in the same way, pretty much as per the hand book, but I don't baby them the trick I've found is to give the engine load but not high sustained revs.

Raging an M engine during running in is daft and flies in the face of what the engineers that built it advise, but often the internet knows better.




The Livster

Original Poster:

222 posts

117 months

Friday 8th May 2015
quotequote all
Thanks Wills

Think I may of worded my last post badly ( in a rush)

What I meant was driving the car hard but within handbook guidelines as opposed to barely revving them for 1500 miles. Appreciate your experience and if I manage to get one I will do the same beer

Wills2

22,878 posts

176 months

Friday 8th May 2015
quotequote all
I'd had a few drinks at that point as well!

What I did, is give the engine load (low-medium revs) 3rd through to 6th as it helps seat the piston rings, I didn't go beyond maximum recommend revs but you can still go to 5000 rpm.

I didn't apply WOT and slowly built the speed up over the 1st 1200 miles (which only took me a couple of weeks.

I still saw 90+ on the motorway and used the torque to load the engine during urban/rural driving.

I've done 6000 miles now and haven't used a drop, my last M3 I did 38k without using any oil either.


RichardM5

1,741 posts

137 months

Friday 8th May 2015
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The key to running in is not to baby the engine too much for the first 50-100 miles. Of course do not use full throttle or revs greater than the recommended maximum (5000 for the M6), but don't just drive around at 2000 rpm either.

The key is to seat the piston rings fully before bores get coated in varnish from the combustion process. Once the bores are coated the piston rings are then pretty much fixed for the life of the engine. Any blow by will reduce compression, thus power, and increase oil consumption. Generally, the use of high (but not too high) rpm at low load (to prevent wear on the big end bearings) plus the use on engine braking (which creates a vacuum and helps suck the piston rings to the cylinder walls) will result in lowest oil consumption and greatest engine power. After the first 100 miles or so, you should then use fewer revs to minimise wear.

Of course, the engine should never be excessively revved or loaded until it's fully up to temperature, running in or not.

Using this procedure my M6 has not required any oil in 22000 miles, although I've added 0.25L to top it up and the oil has been changed 3 times so far.

The Livster

Original Poster:

222 posts

117 months

Friday 8th May 2015
quotequote all
Thanks guys, very helpful and just what I was after