BMW 1M - Wheels & Mods Yes or No ??
Discussion
Hi all
I have just bought a mint 1 owner 1M low mileage, I am going to run it for the next 12-18 months until the new X5M comes down to a realistic price of around £70k, I will only do about 2-4k miles per year. It will only be used every other weekend if the weather is fine. The value should remain strong & hopefully I should not lose to much unlike some other M's & AMG's I have had.
My dilemma is the wife, as we all know as soon as they toddle off in the car you know something is going to happen, "THE WHEELS" get kerbed (I can see a painful smirk from all the blokes reading this). The problem is you need to let the wife drive it to keep the peace & the fact you promised her that when you bought it so the purchase was pain free (we all know what I mean).
Because the original M1 wheels are expensive (yes I know I can have them re-furbished but it's not the same) I am thinking of replacing them with copies & putting the originals in the garage for when I re sell it, they are mint, what do you all think, stupid or not ???
On another note I am considering the Stage 3 package from Evolve, mostly for the torque & easy drive, outright performance least important (yeh right !!!). I had my old X5M done by them & it was a monster !!! My main concern is I would void my warranty with BMW, the moment it went in for a service BMW would flag it as modified & that would stay on their system (They did this on an old 40d I had re-mapped). Ideally I would renew the warranty after the 12 months I have on it (used BMW) but a modified vehicle would eliminate this. I am not that bothered about the warranty myself as that is what you get with modified cars but it's the unmodified cars I would always look to buy. Modified or not I would always use a BMW dealer for any work.
Whilst I know I would enjoy the modifications I am aware even if I take the stage 3 off when I sell, it won't be worth as much, a low mileage untouched example will always be more saleable which I suppose answers my questions. I know it is what is more important to me but would appreciate your comments. You may say well don't tell the buyer but I feel that is misleading & unfair although this will happen all of the time I know.
The reason I have bought this is to have a bit of fun, when I test drove it I was concerned I would not like the manual but I loved it, going through the gears brings you alive, I have had so many autos now you forget how good a manual is, I could only use an auto as a daily driver mind. I am 46 so not a young man that is going to be thrashing the life out of it & track days will be a no as I have a Megane for those.
Modify and enjoy or standard and think of future value ???
OEM wheels & possible re-furb or copies specially for the wife ???
Thanks
P
I have just bought a mint 1 owner 1M low mileage, I am going to run it for the next 12-18 months until the new X5M comes down to a realistic price of around £70k, I will only do about 2-4k miles per year. It will only be used every other weekend if the weather is fine. The value should remain strong & hopefully I should not lose to much unlike some other M's & AMG's I have had.
My dilemma is the wife, as we all know as soon as they toddle off in the car you know something is going to happen, "THE WHEELS" get kerbed (I can see a painful smirk from all the blokes reading this). The problem is you need to let the wife drive it to keep the peace & the fact you promised her that when you bought it so the purchase was pain free (we all know what I mean).
Because the original M1 wheels are expensive (yes I know I can have them re-furbished but it's not the same) I am thinking of replacing them with copies & putting the originals in the garage for when I re sell it, they are mint, what do you all think, stupid or not ???
On another note I am considering the Stage 3 package from Evolve, mostly for the torque & easy drive, outright performance least important (yeh right !!!). I had my old X5M done by them & it was a monster !!! My main concern is I would void my warranty with BMW, the moment it went in for a service BMW would flag it as modified & that would stay on their system (They did this on an old 40d I had re-mapped). Ideally I would renew the warranty after the 12 months I have on it (used BMW) but a modified vehicle would eliminate this. I am not that bothered about the warranty myself as that is what you get with modified cars but it's the unmodified cars I would always look to buy. Modified or not I would always use a BMW dealer for any work.
Whilst I know I would enjoy the modifications I am aware even if I take the stage 3 off when I sell, it won't be worth as much, a low mileage untouched example will always be more saleable which I suppose answers my questions. I know it is what is more important to me but would appreciate your comments. You may say well don't tell the buyer but I feel that is misleading & unfair although this will happen all of the time I know.
The reason I have bought this is to have a bit of fun, when I test drove it I was concerned I would not like the manual but I loved it, going through the gears brings you alive, I have had so many autos now you forget how good a manual is, I could only use an auto as a daily driver mind. I am 46 so not a young man that is going to be thrashing the life out of it & track days will be a no as I have a Megane for those.
Modify and enjoy or standard and think of future value ???
OEM wheels & possible re-furb or copies specially for the wife ???
Thanks
P
I'd keep the engine standard and stick with the proper alloys.
There's more than enough torque and power as standard, IMHO. I've owned mine for three months now and it really is a stunning little car. I haven't yet found a time when I've thought I needed more oomph. On the contrary, turning the traction off and marvelling at just how snappily tail happy it is works as a helpful reminder that it's enough of a bundle of fun in standard form without me monkeying around with it.
As for the alloys... one option would be to buy a set of standard e92 M3 alloys, which are probably cheaper than the comp pack CSL jobbies. But personally, I'd stick with the "real" alloys and then get them refurbed (or replaced if necessary) in due course. To have the proper wheels stored in a garage somewhere while you roll around on cheap copies seems to me a bit like buying an expensive watch and leaving it in the drawer at home while you wander round in the Chinese knock-off.
Enjoy the car! Considering it's arguably little more than a parts bin special, they're a bloody marvellous little car. We're currently on holiday in mine. Fitting all the baby gubbins in proved something of a challenge, but it was well worth it.
There's more than enough torque and power as standard, IMHO. I've owned mine for three months now and it really is a stunning little car. I haven't yet found a time when I've thought I needed more oomph. On the contrary, turning the traction off and marvelling at just how snappily tail happy it is works as a helpful reminder that it's enough of a bundle of fun in standard form without me monkeying around with it.
As for the alloys... one option would be to buy a set of standard e92 M3 alloys, which are probably cheaper than the comp pack CSL jobbies. But personally, I'd stick with the "real" alloys and then get them refurbed (or replaced if necessary) in due course. To have the proper wheels stored in a garage somewhere while you roll around on cheap copies seems to me a bit like buying an expensive watch and leaving it in the drawer at home while you wander round in the Chinese knock-off.
Enjoy the car! Considering it's arguably little more than a parts bin special, they're a bloody marvellous little car. We're currently on holiday in mine. Fitting all the baby gubbins in proved something of a challenge, but it was well worth it.
Edited by Gruber on Thursday 25th June 07:51
Keep the engine standard and change the wheels. It's a fast car as it is, if you are worried about Mrs paddokx damaging the wheels, in a faster car they are going to be hit harder 
Swap the wheels to something else if the originals are expensive to repair. Are there cheaper replicas of the 1M wheels?
Changing wheels isn't like driving a Chinese copy of a BMW, that would be driving one of these:
http://www.bmwblog.com/2008/12/19/bmw-loses-court-...
Swap the wheels to something else if the originals are expensive to repair. Are there cheaper replicas of the 1M wheels?
Changing wheels isn't like driving a Chinese copy of a BMW, that would be driving one of these:
http://www.bmwblog.com/2008/12/19/bmw-loses-court-...
Spent a lot time in a stage3 1m,back then car was brand new.
Good fun.
Would only do stage1 with evolve r,so you can flash it yourself back to stock if it goes in for warranty work.
Refurbish of the wheels if proper done is as good as original.
I get a lot wheels refurbed at a place that does all the work for some big OPCs.
Is yours by any chance an orange one in Mk45?
Good fun.
Would only do stage1 with evolve r,so you can flash it yourself back to stock if it goes in for warranty work.
Refurbish of the wheels if proper done is as good as original.
I get a lot wheels refurbed at a place that does all the work for some big OPCs.
Is yours by any chance an orange one in Mk45?
Is the car in question the white one that was at Sutton Coldfield BMW by any chance? If so, congratulations...that is a spectacular example. As the others have said, I'd keep the engine standard, it's got plenty of oomph to get you into trouble on UK roads. As far as the wheels are concerned, you could look for some nice aftermarket ones that suit the car and give it a different look. I've seen a 1M on some (replica) BBS LM's and it looked really good!
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
Whilst aesthetically acceptable, copy/replica wheels will save you damaging your nice wheels - they usually weigh a ton and affect the ride and handling.
Personally I would buy another set of 1M OEM alloys which I know are expensive and have them as your 'wife sacrifice wheels'. This set can become the winter tyre wheels if you ever keep it that long.
In my experience paying for another set of wheels has a high upfront cost - most of which can be claimed back by selling them after you change the car.
Lastly, don't f
k about with the Engine in my opinion.
Enjoy your car - they are a little belter
Personally I would buy another set of 1M OEM alloys which I know are expensive and have them as your 'wife sacrifice wheels'. This set can become the winter tyre wheels if you ever keep it that long.
In my experience paying for another set of wheels has a high upfront cost - most of which can be claimed back by selling them after you change the car.
Lastly, don't f
k about with the Engine in my opinion.Enjoy your car - they are a little belter
Edited by nbetts on Thursday 25th June 10:59
Swapping the wheels to keep them nice for selling seems a shame to me. You should enjoy the car as it is. As a compromise maybe you could get a set of the 18" E92 M3 wheels for winter and that will keep your comp wheels in better condition. Look at my profile and you can see them, style 260 wheel.
I wouldn't tune it either, the power it has is more than adequate.
I wouldn't tune it either, the power it has is more than adequate.
Thanks for all your feedback, as I thought keep it all standard seems to be the majority.
Many of my previous cars I have had mapped, I enjoy the torque & throttle response rather than outright performance however the 1M has really made me think again, I honestly feel it is a special little car that does not need to be (or should I say "should not be") messed with.
When I drove it it was completely different to my C63 PPP I just sold, the 63 was immediate throttle response & very powerful. The 1M does feel under powered in comparison, I was thinking the mods would give it more immediate punch. A good point noted above is it has the right power for it's chassis set up, the M boys have been doing it for a while now so know what's what !!!!!!
Of all the cars I bought over the years I have to admit I am the most excited about picking up this than many of the others, by far not the most powerful nor the most expensive but driving the little 1M did feel special compared to the 63, got very bored very quickly with that car.
I went to look at a 997 GTS but compared to the new 991 model it looked so old & dated. When I went to see the 1M there was a 235 beside it & the 1M blew the 235 away in the looks department. Everyone has their own opinions I know but the 235 just looked so plain next to it. Looking forward to the 2M.
Thanks again for everyone's views
P
Many of my previous cars I have had mapped, I enjoy the torque & throttle response rather than outright performance however the 1M has really made me think again, I honestly feel it is a special little car that does not need to be (or should I say "should not be") messed with.
When I drove it it was completely different to my C63 PPP I just sold, the 63 was immediate throttle response & very powerful. The 1M does feel under powered in comparison, I was thinking the mods would give it more immediate punch. A good point noted above is it has the right power for it's chassis set up, the M boys have been doing it for a while now so know what's what !!!!!!
Of all the cars I bought over the years I have to admit I am the most excited about picking up this than many of the others, by far not the most powerful nor the most expensive but driving the little 1M did feel special compared to the 63, got very bored very quickly with that car.
I went to look at a 997 GTS but compared to the new 991 model it looked so old & dated. When I went to see the 1M there was a 235 beside it & the 1M blew the 235 away in the looks department. Everyone has their own opinions I know but the 235 just looked so plain next to it. Looking forward to the 2M.
Thanks again for everyone's views
P
Interestingly, I took my 1M down to DMS in Southampton and the car had 372 BHP in stock form which is way above the original claims by BMW. I had a simple remap done and the car now has 428 BHP. For a relatively small amount of money, it's even more of an animal and bloody good fun.
This is my second 1M and I recently sold a 997 GTS to buy another pristine low miler. The 1M is definitely quicker than the porker, feels M&R special and on a cross country route, I can't imagine anything quicker. Fantastic little cars!!
This is my second 1M and I recently sold a 997 GTS to buy another pristine low miler. The 1M is definitely quicker than the porker, feels M&R special and on a cross country route, I can't imagine anything quicker. Fantastic little cars!!
Mickywoosh said:
Interestingly, I took my 1M down to DMS in Southampton and the car had 372 BHP in stock form which is way above the original claims by BMW.
Yup, from what I personally seen on a few dyno's most stock 1M's are in the 360-370hp region rather than the <cough> 340 odd admitted to by BMW 
I agree keep it stock (maybe different exhaust for a bit more sound if you want) as that won't really hurt residuals or have an effect on warranty.
Definitely keep the original wheels on, why go to the expensive of putting on fakes, when a full refurb of the originals if needed at any point will be cheaper anyway.
Drive it with traction control off if you want to feel like it has more power ! I doubt there are many opportunities where you are pressing on driving country roads where a 1M feels like it needs more. Sure you can go quicker in a straight line but lets face it...balance and poise in the twisty's is what it's all about.
I say tune it if you feel it hasn't got enough then get the car to where you want it to be, having had a few tuned cars the 1M engine is a good tuneable engine I'd say a stage 2 is a good compromise. Plus there's nothing wrong from wanting to make your 1M different from every other 1M out there.
As for the wheels take a look at Alloygator these are one of the best upgrades I've found they can be abused & the wheel doesn't get damaged.
I now have no worries about the OH driving my cars with 2K's worth of Vertini Alloys
As for the wheels take a look at Alloygator these are one of the best upgrades I've found they can be abused & the wheel doesn't get damaged.
I now have no worries about the OH driving my cars with 2K's worth of Vertini Alloys
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