Precautions using 9000 RPM E30 M3 on the street?
Discussion
Hello,
I have bought this fairly extreme spec car:
http://www.stelvio.dk/uk/product_det...aster&m...
Not from Stelvio but from the person who bought it from them a couple of years ago.
I am wondering about the precautions to take and the durability one can expect from such a spec, in strictly street use on empty country secondary roads. One mechanic informs me that I should avoid cold starts and constant load cruising like the freeway, due to the piston tolerances.
I would have thought that a race-spec engine would last incomparably longer in a road application than in race conditions (where engine life is often counted in hours), right?
Main internals are:
- Bloc is 2.5L evo III with oil spray nozzels
- Crank and oil pump are 2.5L evo III
- Crank bearings are BMW Motorsport
- Pistons are JE forged Group A endurance pistons with 12.6 compression.
- Rods are 595g BMW Motorsport items.
- Cams are BMW Motorsport 320 / 308 operating BMW Motorsport springs and Evo II valves (37 mm inlet, 32 mm outlet)
Engine was built from all new parts by a BMW mechanic with road use in mind. It is described to be built for 10.400 rpm but was limited to 9000 rpm for safety.
Since the seller bought the car from Stelvio, the ECU was changed to Emerald K6 standalone in order to achieve better flexibility. Rev limiter is currently at 8800 rpm. Power is in the region of 270-280 BHP.
So, what particular precautions, if any, should I take for street use, compared to a less extreme S14?
Engine has only done 4000 Km (approx 2700 miles) in street use so far. What kind of total road (not track) mileage can I expect before a rebuild? 50.000 miles?? And when will I know a rebuild is due? Blue smoking due to worn piston rings?
Thanks,
Alex
I have bought this fairly extreme spec car:
http://www.stelvio.dk/uk/product_det...aster&m...
Not from Stelvio but from the person who bought it from them a couple of years ago.
I am wondering about the precautions to take and the durability one can expect from such a spec, in strictly street use on empty country secondary roads. One mechanic informs me that I should avoid cold starts and constant load cruising like the freeway, due to the piston tolerances.
I would have thought that a race-spec engine would last incomparably longer in a road application than in race conditions (where engine life is often counted in hours), right?
Main internals are:
- Bloc is 2.5L evo III with oil spray nozzels
- Crank and oil pump are 2.5L evo III
- Crank bearings are BMW Motorsport
- Pistons are JE forged Group A endurance pistons with 12.6 compression.
- Rods are 595g BMW Motorsport items.
- Cams are BMW Motorsport 320 / 308 operating BMW Motorsport springs and Evo II valves (37 mm inlet, 32 mm outlet)
Engine was built from all new parts by a BMW mechanic with road use in mind. It is described to be built for 10.400 rpm but was limited to 9000 rpm for safety.
Since the seller bought the car from Stelvio, the ECU was changed to Emerald K6 standalone in order to achieve better flexibility. Rev limiter is currently at 8800 rpm. Power is in the region of 270-280 BHP.
So, what particular precautions, if any, should I take for street use, compared to a less extreme S14?
Engine has only done 4000 Km (approx 2700 miles) in street use so far. What kind of total road (not track) mileage can I expect before a rebuild? 50.000 miles?? And when will I know a rebuild is due? Blue smoking due to worn piston rings?
Thanks,
Alex
Same as any other engine I reckon, wait for oil temps to rise fully before revving the engine out and make sure it has plenty of oil and filter changes. If looked after properly the s14 engine is extremely durable.
I am currently rebuilding a well maintained 220bhp 2.3L which has done 125k miles and it is showing zero wear on the crank, pistons, rods, cams and cylinder bores. The only surfaces which are worn are the exhaust valve guides, even these are still in tolerance!
I think if your engine has been built right and looked after properly it will last a good 100k miles plus if you continue to look after it.
Cheers
I am currently rebuilding a well maintained 220bhp 2.3L which has done 125k miles and it is showing zero wear on the crank, pistons, rods, cams and cylinder bores. The only surfaces which are worn are the exhaust valve guides, even these are still in tolerance!
I think if your engine has been built right and looked after properly it will last a good 100k miles plus if you continue to look after it.
Cheers
Assuming the engine is built right and all the clearances are there etc, I would agree with Rob, the main thing being to make sure you let it warm up properly first before enjoying all those lovely revs.
The only thing I would add is if you end up leaving the car stood still for a period of time is to follow a simple trick prior to the first start: Pop off the coil lead and turn the engine over on the starter until the oil pressure light goes out thus ensuring a degree of oil and pressure has made its way around the engine. I have done this with mine for years and its always prevented the dreaded timing chain rattle that can sometimes happen. You'll only need to hear that rattle once and you'll be more inclined to do the coil lead trick afterwards!
Good luck and enjoy
The only thing I would add is if you end up leaving the car stood still for a period of time is to follow a simple trick prior to the first start: Pop off the coil lead and turn the engine over on the starter until the oil pressure light goes out thus ensuring a degree of oil and pressure has made its way around the engine. I have done this with mine for years and its always prevented the dreaded timing chain rattle that can sometimes happen. You'll only need to hear that rattle once and you'll be more inclined to do the coil lead trick afterwards!
Good luck and enjoy
It's going awesome, thanks!
Went for a week in september with Petrolhead Tours in the Alps and Pyrenees. The E30 managed to stay ahead of all the modern machines, such as McLaren 12C, Ferrari F12, Audi R8 V10, not to mention modern generation M cars like M2, M3/M4...
Agility is key, plus a sweet handling balance that allows every scrap of grip and performance to be used.
Went for a week in september with Petrolhead Tours in the Alps and Pyrenees. The E30 managed to stay ahead of all the modern machines, such as McLaren 12C, Ferrari F12, Audi R8 V10, not to mention modern generation M cars like M2, M3/M4...
Agility is key, plus a sweet handling balance that allows every scrap of grip and performance to be used.
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