M3 E92 questions

[woogie]

Hi all - I have an M3 itch that needs scratching and just need a little bit more info .

I am interested in a main dealer 2010MY - I know you pay more than private but the car is all sorted before you get it, warranty etc ( peace of mind)- plus I want to PX my BMW . I checked and the throttle actuators were done in July this year . Regarding rod bearings is that something I should ask about also ?

Main question I have is how is it for short drives. For instance I work 2 miles away and I drive there in morning then go pick my daughter up from crèche at 5 , hence why I don't bike such a short distance. Will it be ok with these short drives ? Saturdays I am off to London every 2 weeks either to football or parents and this is a 300 mile round trip. Sundays I will def be going for a blast also .

I did the drive a few years back for 5 years in a 911 and never had any issue so was wondering if its ok in an M3 or will I screw things up as I know it needs warming up quite a bit

thanks in advance

[Smuler]

woogie said:

Hi all - I have an M3 itch that needs scratching and just need a little bit more info .

I am interested in a main dealer 2010MY - I know you pay more than private but the car is all sorted before you get it, warranty etc ( peace of mind)- plus I want to PX my BMW . I checked and the throttle actuators were done in July this year . Regarding rod bearings is that something I should ask about also ?

Main question I have is how is it for short drives. For instance I work 2 miles away and I drive there in morning then go pick my daughter up from crèche at 5 , hence why I don't bike such a short distance. Will it be ok with these short drives ? Saturdays I am off to London every 2 weeks either to football or parents and this is a 300 mile round trip. Sundays I will def be going for a blast also .

I did the drive a few years back for 5 years in a 911 and never had any issue so was wondering if its ok in an M3 or will I screw things up as I know it needs warming up quite a bit

thanks in advance

You'll probably be happier with answers from (long term) owners, but I looked at a few of these, for me, and lots more for a mate. And didn't find rod bearings mentioned in the service/maintenance history at all Throttle Actuators were the main culprit, but if you's getting a AUC car, those sort of things will be covered. My mate went AUC and to be honest, the prices were not always notably more expensive. It really depends on the car.
In the end he got a AUC 2010, so LCI, but although we looked mostly at 2007-2009 cars I'd say the biggest issue was making sure they had a pukka service history. Even one 2009 AUC car had missing records, cos there was no way it could have gone 30k without an oil service!

I don't drive my E46 M3 for such short drives, but the warm up lights go off within a few miles so really can't see it being a problem.

[woogie]

Smuler said:

woogie said:

Hi all - I have an M3 itch that needs scratching and just need a little bit more info .

I am interested in a main dealer 2010MY - I know you pay more than private but the car is all sorted before you get it, warranty etc ( peace of mind)- plus I want to PX my BMW . I checked and the throttle actuators were done in July this year . Regarding rod bearings is that something I should ask about also ?

Main question I have is how is it for short drives. For instance I work 2 miles away and I drive there in morning then go pick my daughter up from crèche at 5 , hence why I don't bike such a short distance. Will it be ok with these short drives ? Saturdays I am off to London every 2 weeks either to football or parents and this is a 300 mile round trip. Sundays I will def be going for a blast also .

I did the drive a few years back for 5 years in a 911 and never had any issue so was wondering if its ok in an M3 or will I screw things up as I know it needs warming up quite a bit

thanks in advance

You'll probably be happier with answers from (long term) owners, but I looked at a few of these, for me, and lots more for a mate. And didn't find rod bearings mentioned in the service/maintenance history at all Throttle Actuators were the main culprit, but if you's getting a AUC car, those sort of things will be covered. My mate went AUC and to be honest, the prices were not always notably more expensive. It really depends on the car.
In the end he got a AUC 2010, so LCI, but although we looked mostly at 2007-2009 cars I'd say the biggest issue was making sure they had a pukka service history. Even one 2009 AUC car had missing records, cos there was no way it could have gone 30k without an oil service!

I don't drive my E46 M3 for such short drives, but the warm up lights go off within a few miles so really can't see it being a problem.

Hi thanks for feed back , I will check the service history. I def want a 2010 or never as like you say it has the LCI update. I think the one I am looking at is the competition pack one as it has black wheels , black roof , black exhaust tips. ( I need to check this)

[Max Maxasson]

If you get the vin number of the car (its on the drivers side visible when you open the door) you can check the exact spec of the car...having black bits on the car is no guarantee of anything.
https://www.bmwvin.com/
I'm on my second E92 M3 and >8 years of ownership and they are indeed a great car to own. Short trips are never great for any car but a regular long drive should sort it out.

[Smuler]

woogie said:

Hi thanks for feed back , I will check the service history. I def want a 2010 or never as like you say it has the LCI update. I think the one I am looking at is the competition pack one as it has black wheels , black roof , black exhaust tips. ( I need to check this)

You're welcome, CP is the stunning wheels and updated EDC, it also rides 10mm lower. These wheels can be in black, but most were silver I saw.

Here's a competition package one that has the silver wheels.

http://usedcars.bmw.co.uk/M/4.0-V8/London/2074288-...

Here's a CP article I referred too.

http://www.evo.co.uk/bmw/m3/6837/bmw-m3-competitio...


I've also still got my notes on what was serviced when, reference the 2010 LCI my mate bought. If you want to use that as a benchmark let me know?

[woogie]

Smuler said:

You're welcome, CP is the stunning wheels and updated EDC, it also rides 10mm lower. These wheels can be in black, but most were silver I saw.

Here's a competition package one that has the silver wheels.

http://usedcars.bmw.co.uk/M/4.0-V8/London/2074288-...

Here's a CP article I referred too.

http://www.evo.co.uk/bmw/m3/6837/bmw-m3-competitio...


I've also still got my notes on what was serviced when, reference the 2010 LCI my mate bought. If you want to use that as a benchmark let me know?

cheers - its not the CP pack I just asked - it has the CP wheels on it though which suits the colour ( MCB)

[Max Maxasson]

Make sure they are OEM wheels...a lot of cars have been retrofitted with reps - which I wouldn't recommend having had poor experience with a set of CSL reps.
In fact I'm fairly sure a main dealer cars should not come with replica wheels.

[R33FAL]

Max Maxasson said:

Make sure they are OEM wheels...a lot of cars have been retrofitted with reps - which I wouldn't recommend having had poor experience with a set of CSL reps.
In fact I'm fairly sure a main dealer cars should not come with replica wheels.

Would disagree... I have had the Avant Garde competition pack wheels on mine for 2 years and they are absolutely fine.

Also, if you happen to kerb them, cost to replace full set ~£695 is the same as a cost of one wheel from BMW.

Dealers don't seem to pick up on mine being reps either.

[woogie]

R33FAL said:

Would disagree... I have had the Avant Garde competition pack wheels on mine for 2 years and they are absolutely fine.

Also, if you happen to kerb them, cost to replace full set ~£695 is the same as a cost of one wheel from BMW.

Dealers don't seem to pick up on mine being reps either.

How can you tell if they are reps ?

[Smuler]

woogie said:

cheers - its not the CP pack I just asked - it has the CP wheels on it though which suits the colour ( MCB)

Details of services, as promised, didn't paste too well, so although probably obvious, miles, what was done, date.

RIS - Running in Service, is guided at about 1200 so even this one wasn't perfect!

I doubt I'm alone, but shortcomings in the service history was a big issue I found when trying to get a M3 of this generation.


1725 RIS (oil) 3 June 2010
16965 Oil, Brake Fluid, Recirculating Air Filter, Microfilter 1 May 2012
27163 Vehicle Check, Brake Fluid, Oil, Spark Plugs, Microfilter, Air Cleaner Element 11 April 2014
42824 Oil, Air Cleaner Element, Micro filter 24 November 2015
48040 Brake Fluid 10 May 2016

[R33FAL]

woogie said:

How can you tell if they are reps ?

The reps have a slightly bigger concave (i.e. look better) on both front and back wheels. Reps are ET35/38 and originals are ET25/31.

[mikeyscott]

I'm looking at these too and also AUC car, I'm looking at 59 onwards as want LCI with updated iDrive.

The scary thing is warranty after the AUC warranty has expired.

Other things for me, must not be black, I hate black. Metallic Space Grey is what I'd like. Wheels not too bothered about, tempted by 18s for better ride quality.

Must have
DCT
PDC
Heated seats etc.

I've used the VIN website a lot for when I got my 135i last year, which TBH I'm bored with.

MOT and warranty renewal this week and then probably for sale with or without Birds suspension. I rec it'll be £10k to move to a M3 though

[Max Maxasson]

woogie said:

How can you tell if they are reps ?

Its not easy...they tend to be heavier, made with different materials and in my case very difficult to balance.
I guess a lot of wheel weights would make me suspicious.

[bimmer_87]

woogie said:

Hi all - I have an M3 itch that needs scratching and just need a little bit more info .

I am interested in a main dealer 2010MY - I know you pay more than private but the car is all sorted before you get it, warranty etc ( peace of mind)- plus I want to PX my BMW . I checked and the throttle actuators were done in July this year . Regarding rod bearings is that something I should ask about also ?

Main question I have is how is it for short drives. For instance I work 2 miles away and I drive there in morning then go pick my daughter up from crèche at 5 , hence why I don't bike such a short distance. Will it be ok with these short drives ? Saturdays I am off to London every 2 weeks either to football or parents and this is a 300 mile round trip. Sundays I will def be going for a blast also .

I did the drive a few years back for 5 years in a 911 and never had any issue so was wondering if its ok in an M3 or will I screw things up as I know it needs warming up quite a bit

thanks in advance

My commute is 1.3 miles. The car doesn't warm up at all by the time i get there, and it feels rough when its cold.

I can feel hot air from the blowers about 3/4 into my commute.

With regards to rod bearings; this appears more common with US spec M3's

My throttle actuators failed at 82k

[dougt]

I had a 2008 M3 manual for a couple of years up until last summer. My usage pattern was occasional short trips (1.5 miles) to work or leaving it standing for a week when I walked to work, mixed with occasional long motorway trips at weekends. It quite literally drove me mad with warnings about low battery state. I had it all checked, replaced the battery etc apparently they all do that when not used much (check out M3Cutters). Unfortunately I couldn't use a trickle charger because I live in a flat with underground parking, so no power.

Having said that, I'd say you will be fine with a longer trip every couple of weeks or so.

It was a bit lumpy when cold, but nothing serious, certainly not as noticeable as the E46 M3 I had previously.

I never got the feeling the I was damaging the car by not using it too much, in my ownership it was pretty much fault free apart from the battery thing, which was just down to lack of use.

[dvshannow]

agree will be ok for the shorter trips as a decent fortnightly drive. i get the same low battery issues when i just do the 2mi station run for more than a few weeks. an agm battery i guess would sort that out.

otherwise they are great cars especially good gt. i had an m perf exhaust added which would also reccommend. with all the turbos around now the engine sound is one of the main attractions and all the more worthwhile to let it sing!

[johnwilliams77]

bimmer_87 said:

My commute is 1.3 miles. The car doesn't warm up at all by the time i get there, and it feels rough when its cold.

I can feel hot air from the blowers about 3/4 into my commute.

With regards to rod bearings; this appears more common with US spec M3's

My throttle actuators failed at 82k

Walk cycle or run yoy lazy git!

[bimmer_87]

johnwilliams77 said:

Walk cycle or run yoy lazy git!

Don't quite fancy walking 20 minutes up a hill on the way back, especially with winter weather.

[velocgee]

Max Maxasson said:

Short trips are never great for any car but a regular long drive should sort it out.

essentially correct. my car was lethargic when only used for shorter trips. when i added a fortnightly 200mile round trip it ran much better.

OP,actuators failing are part of the spec (lol!) but i know little of the rod bearing issue (i thing cases in the UK are very low).

the use you've mentioned is not the best for the M3 (i think that applies to most of us, though). but it's an itch that you really ought to scratch

[johnwilliams77]

bimmer_87 said:

Don't quite fancy walking 20 minutes up a hill on the way back, especially with winter weather.

Walk faster. It's not hard to walk 4mph. You won't feel the cold if you walk quicker too, win win. Also there is these wonderful things: gloves/hat and you do your car less harm. Winning all round