Mk1- Coolant loss / overheating troubles...
Discussion
If the coolant loose is due to overheating here is a suggestion:
Many years ago I had an overheating problem to sort out. I did all the things you've done and more!
Eventually I knocked out the core plugs and found that the bottom of the water jacket was full of sludge.
Bit random I know but just thought I'd mention it. Hope you get it sorted OP.
Many years ago I had an overheating problem to sort out. I did all the things you've done and more!
Eventually I knocked out the core plugs and found that the bottom of the water jacket was full of sludge.
Bit random I know but just thought I'd mention it. Hope you get it sorted OP.
To update this, the car has gone in for a straight engine change today. Late last year it was finally noticed that all my problems are because some bodge-monkey has presumably overheated the engine and knackered the head, and replaced it with a Mazda 323 head, which is similar but not identical. An engine swap is no the most cost-effective fix, especially as I have no faith in the existing engine anymore.
It's getting a new Exedy clutch and AK Auto red silicon hose set too, should look pretty smart.
Also got some gorgeous newly refurbished 14" RS Watanabe minilites to go on it, can't wait to get it back and fit them!
It's getting a new Exedy clutch and AK Auto red silicon hose set too, should look pretty smart.
Also got some gorgeous newly refurbished 14" RS Watanabe minilites to go on it, can't wait to get it back and fit them!
Edited by vrsmxtb on Monday 16th April 16:16
Edited by vrsmxtb on Monday 16th April 16:17
Paul Dishman said:
Interesting thread.
We've had a similar problem with my wife's 10AE since shes owned it. We did the easy things last year- flush the system, new rad cap which appeared to help but didn't really solve the overheating in slow traffic or, for example, when putting the engine underload by climbing a hill.
In the end it went to the local Mazda dealer who have sorted it by installing a new radiator. The old radiator looked fine, but you can't tell by looking at it. The Mazda radiator was £128+Vat so no more expensive than buying from MX5 parts and the Mazda tech took the car home with him to drive it in heavy traffic to check that it wasn't still overheating. Sue drove it back across Exeter in really heavy traffic yesterday so problem (fingers crossed) solved
My update on this is that the new rad did cure the overheating and we've had no problems since.We've had a similar problem with my wife's 10AE since shes owned it. We did the easy things last year- flush the system, new rad cap which appeared to help but didn't really solve the overheating in slow traffic or, for example, when putting the engine underload by climbing a hill.
In the end it went to the local Mazda dealer who have sorted it by installing a new radiator. The old radiator looked fine, but you can't tell by looking at it. The Mazda radiator was £128+Vat so no more expensive than buying from MX5 parts and the Mazda tech took the car home with him to drive it in heavy traffic to check that it wasn't still overheating. Sue drove it back across Exeter in really heavy traffic yesterday so problem (fingers crossed) solved
Cooling system flush as follows: Remove the thermostat housing cover and thermostat, block off return at the radiator. Connect a hose and or plastic pipe from rad return hose to be able to run water away to a suitable recommended drain point, i.e. a bucket. Place a running hose pipe through the radiator filling cap neck and start engine and run the engine till the water runs as clear as possible. On completion fit a new gasket and thermostat making sure no used gasket material enters the system when you clean the gasket faces.
The ethylene glycol in antifreeze has a sweet odor and will attract animals, which try to ingest it - it is highly toxic to them. Please do not simply drain your vehicle's antifreeze onto your work surface at all. You should be sure to collect any antifreeze that you drain and dispose of it properly as you would do with engine oil.
When refilling use a combination of De-ionised water and a silicate free long-life Antifreeze concentrate to refill 50/50 mix.
The ethylene glycol in antifreeze has a sweet odor and will attract animals, which try to ingest it - it is highly toxic to them. Please do not simply drain your vehicle's antifreeze onto your work surface at all. You should be sure to collect any antifreeze that you drain and dispose of it properly as you would do with engine oil.
When refilling use a combination of De-ionised water and a silicate free long-life Antifreeze concentrate to refill 50/50 mix.
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