Eaton M45 Supercharger project

Eaton M45 Supercharger project

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M3 Convert

6 posts

135 months

Saturday 2nd August 2014
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Ignore the signature - my main car is a high-power lorry (sorry, BMW M3). My MX 5 Mk 2.5 Sport is my fun - however underpowered - car. Planning to go down the MP 45 with Emerald K6 route and curious how you got around deleting the OEM ECU whilst apparently retaining the immobiliser/central locking.

feef

Original Poster:

5,206 posts

184 months

Saturday 23rd August 2014
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Got her back on Thursday. Since then I've sorted out the Tein SportS springs so running 35mm lower, but still rides nicely. I still need to sort out the tacho which isn't working, but som research suggests that the tach is expecting a standard 12v squarewave signal that the Emerald ECU can provide, so I just need to tap into line K2 going into the dash. I'm going to check the voltages and whatnot first, as I don't want th damage either the ECU nor the dash. Apart from that, she's good to go and runs beautifully.







feef

Original Poster:

5,206 posts

184 months

Tuesday 26th August 2014
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Got the rev counter working. It was line K2 as expected although the wiring diagram said it should be a green/orange wire where it was actually a green/yellow. After a bit of testing and checking I was comfortable that it was the right one so tapped into the tach output from the emerald and off it went.

All done now. Had a good long run in solid traffic into the gransden airshow on Sunday too so I'm confident the cooling system is working fine.

Next step is to start working the pulley ratios to up the boost.

Richyvrlimited

1,826 posts

164 months

Wednesday 27th August 2014
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I'd spend a Saturday/sunday day ensuring the ducting to your heat exchanger(s) are sorted before upping the boost at all.

The air is much cooler at the minute which will be helping you, but come hot weather and/or extended hard usage you'll overheat.

You need the radiators completely sealed to the mouth, at the minute the air is taking the path of least resistance, which is over the rad not, through it.

feef

Original Poster:

5,206 posts

184 months

Wednesday 27th August 2014
quotequote all
Richyvrlimited said:
I'd spend a Saturday/sunday day ensuring the ducting to your heat exchanger(s) are sorted before upping the boost at all.

The air is much cooler at the minute which will be helping you, but come hot weather and/or extended hard usage you'll overheat.

You need the radiators completely sealed to the mouth, at the minute the air is taking the path of least resistance, which is over the rad not, through it.
Spent most of last Sunday morning sitting in solid traffic, queuing to get into Gransden Airshow. An hour of stop-start traffic saw the fan cutting in frequently but no issues with overheating.

MX-5 Lazza

7,952 posts

220 months

Wednesday 27th August 2014
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Stop-start traffic shouldn't be a problem, the fan will draw the air through the rad. It's when you use that extra power for any length of time that you will find the coolant temperatures shooting up. You won't see it on the gauge as it's damped so won't move much above "normal" until it's "overheating".
It's especially important if you intend to use it on track at all.

Edited by MX-5 Lazza on Wednesday 27th August 21:37

feef

Original Poster:

5,206 posts

184 months

Wednesday 27th August 2014
quotequote all
MX-5 Lazza said:
Stop-start traffic shouldn't be a problem, the fan will draw the air through the rad. It's when you use that extra power for any length of time that you will find the coolant temperatures shooting up. You won't see it on the gauge as it's damped so won't move much above "normal" until it's "overheating".
It's especially important if you intend to use it on track at all.

Edited by MX-5 Lazza on Wednesday 27th August 21:37
Not had an issue with that either, and I've been enjoying it around my local country roads for several hours at a time since I got it home. Time will tell.

Richyvrlimited

1,826 posts

164 months

Thursday 28th August 2014
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feef said:
Not had an issue with that either, and I've been enjoying it around my local country roads for several hours at a time since I got it home. Time will tell.
Hooning on lanes doesn't push a car, plus it's not actually that hot out at the minute.

Live in denial if you like, but what you have currently is sub optimal, proper ducting and shrouding makes a huge difference.

BTDT and got the t-shirt.

MX-5 Lazza

7,952 posts

220 months

Thursday 28th August 2014
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feef said:
Not had an issue with that either, and I've been enjoying it around my local country roads for several hours at a time since I got it home. Time will tell.
Yet. As I said, you can't actually tell how hot the coolant is getting. Once you up the boost you will also up the heat so as Richy said, get the ducting sorted first. It won't take long and is an easy job.
Reliability is way more important than a few more horses and becomes more important the more you push it, especially with an M45 SC as they create a lot of heat in the charge so you need all the cooling you can get.

trackerjack

649 posts

185 months

Tuesday 2nd September 2014
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I can only agree about cooling.
I have Quantum 2+2 RS turbo for track fun and on the road struggles to reach mid gauge at 80 deg but on track soars to 115 deg with me at the wheel and 90 deg with the wife driving, if you go past me on track chnces are the wife is driving!

I have completed my Seven type kit car with an MX5 HSK turbo and am sorting the cooling at the moment but have not tracked it yet as it was only registered in Aug.
I am contemplating fitting an extra rad and feeding the redundant heater system through it.
The engine has a Saab intercooler and Aquamist water injection too.

Track work will find any weakness.

feef

Original Poster:

5,206 posts

184 months

Tuesday 2nd September 2014
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MX-5 Lazza said:
Yet. As I said, you can't actually tell how hot the coolant is getting.
I will soon. I've found my old windows laptop, so will be enabling datalogging for a few days