MX5 MK2 - serious rust issues? check before you buy one!

MX5 MK2 - serious rust issues? check before you buy one!

Author
Discussion

Sway

26,250 posts

194 months

Tuesday 29th September 2015
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MX-5 Lazza said:
If you know what you are looking for and where it is, you should be able to feel for it with your fingers without having to remove anything. You do need to know where to expect it though.
I've been told that by my other half...

Not quite sure what she's referring to, but I don't think it's rust, and she seems to think it's important.

:shrug:

AmiableChimp

3,674 posts

237 months

Tuesday 29th September 2015
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Sway said:
MX-5 Lazza said:
If you know what you are looking for and where it is, you should be able to feel for it with your fingers without having to remove anything. You do need to know where to expect it though.
I've been told that by my other half...

Not quite sure what she's referring to, but I don't think it's rust, and she seems to think it's important.

:shrug:
Is that when you are inspecting her chassis for holes?

Sway

26,250 posts

194 months

Tuesday 29th September 2015
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The official term is 'bodywork inspection'. Book time is 38 seconds...

k-ink

9,070 posts

179 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2016
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buzzer said:
This is going to kill a lot of MX5's
This thread has certainly killed my interest in the idea of a UK sourced 5 as a weekend toy. It also raises a general cloud over any other Mazda product, if this is their idea of acceptable standards. Oh well, next!

one eyed mick

1,189 posts

161 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2016
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Stay clear of mk2 's mk1 imports are usualy reasonable newerstuff I can't really comment

AmiableChimp

3,674 posts

237 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2016
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My Mk1 import that came in from Japan in Feb 2015 does not suffer from rust issues.

Mk1s tend to be more resilient than Mk2s in general, especially UK based cars, so I would go for an import.

LordJammy

3,112 posts

189 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2016
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k-ink said:
This thread has certainly killed my interest in the idea of a UK sourced 5 as a weekend toy. It also raises a general cloud over any other Mazda product, if this is their idea of acceptable standards. Oh well, next!
My car is 26 years old most are heading for 20 even the last of the mk2s are knocking on a bit. You surely wouldn't expect it to be showroom fresh at the ages these cars are now? Especially as most won't have been looked after properly.

Gilhooligan

2,214 posts

144 months

Wednesday 23rd March 2016
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Mines is a UK sourced one and it's pretty clean underneath. I wouldn't completely write off the idea of getting a UK car. You will undoubtedly have to sift through more rust buckets first though.

Hol

8,404 posts

200 months

Wednesday 23rd March 2016
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Ours was rust free by the time we got rid after three year of ownership as we had both rear quarters & the front chassis replaced and the all the original under seal replaced.

WWAC were not interested in any of that though, as all 2.5 Sports are effectively priced same to them, so I can imagine some real dogs on the dealer forecourts.




Perseverant

439 posts

111 months

Friday 1st April 2016
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Still a fun car to own though! We're on our second Mk 2.5 VVT Sport - my wife used the first one day in and day out for a couple of years which put up the miles as you may imagine. And yes, it was rusty and needed the sills and front rails fixed. Bought another fairly cheaply using corrosion as a bargaining point and mended that too - an 04 plate with 40,000 or so on the clock - all the same stuff plus a surprise hole in the D/S rail under the car which on close examination looked to have been caused by a garage trolley jack whose other foot had squashed the little outrigger under the footwell. Lots of waxoil and so on underneath, also took off the braces and cleaned and painted them. I've also thrown away the front undertray which has insulating pads on it as it's made of tin and gathers dirt and gravel, and got rid of the heatshield above the rear silencer. That way you can clean up the boot floor properly, and no, the heat doesn't seem to get to the floor at all.

joekarter

96 posts

211 months

Thursday 14th April 2016
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Have had my VVT mk2.5 for nearly a year now and have really enjoyed the experience. Rust was prominent on one arch and could be felt under both sills, the chassis rail problem only appeared on one side of the engine bay.
I recently went on a three week holiday down under, so put the 5 in for sill replacements and chassis rail repair. On my return the car looked great when I picked it up from Mark Lifton (Sheerness Kent)on Monday. He had replaced the sills and said that the inner sills were in good condition, the chassis rail problem wasn't as bad as he had expected, thankfully. He cleaned up all the blemishes, had the dent guy in to remove a couple of shopping trolley nicks and even cleaned the headlamps, I was very impressed with his level of detail, so much so that he is going to be tidying up my 330 sport for me next.
Next job on the 5 is to have the wheels refurbed, that is being done at the end of the month, after that it could do with a new hood but that isn't desperate (It only leaks when parked facing downwards on a hill !).
I'm certainly looking forward to another good summer of driving.

breezer42

132 posts

151 months

Thursday 23rd March 2017
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Thread revival (sorry!) - what's the going rate for this work now?

(i) sill replacement (per side)
(ii) Chassis rail replacement (per side)

I'm just trying to work out a worst case scenario so I can haggle when I find a 10AE.

Thank!

Sway

26,250 posts

194 months

Thursday 23rd March 2017
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breezer42 said:
Thread revival (sorry!) - what's the going rate for this work now?

(i) sill replacement (per side)
(ii) Chassis rail replacement (per side)

I'm just trying to work out a worst case scenario so I can haggle when I find a 10AE.

Thank!
Personal experience on the south coast:

Sill approx £5-600
Rear arch adds around £200
Front chassis rail approx. £400

However, prices seem to vary massively based on location, approach taken and quality...

Iirc, the 10Ae paint is as much of a bd to colour match as my Montego Blue.

breezer42

132 posts

151 months

Thursday 23rd March 2017
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Sway said:
Personal experience on the south coast:

Sill approx £5-600
Rear arch adds around £200
Front chassis rail approx. £400

However, prices seem to vary massively based on location, approach taken and quality...

Iirc, the 10Ae paint is as much of a bd to colour match as my Montego Blue.
Many thanks! I'm also in the south, so imagine that's in the area of what I'd pay too.

Oh dear! Maybe I shouldn't hang on to the 10AE dream too tightly then. I suppose a late 1.8 sport would be similar (6sp and LSD are my priorities), just not as fun to look at or sit in.

Sway

26,250 posts

194 months

Thursday 23rd March 2017
quotequote all
breezer42 said:
Sway said:
Personal experience on the south coast:

Sill approx £5-600
Rear arch adds around £200
Front chassis rail approx. £400

However, prices seem to vary massively based on location, approach taken and quality...

Iirc, the 10Ae paint is as much of a bd to colour match as my Montego Blue.
Many thanks! I'm also in the south, so imagine that's in the area of what I'd pay too.

Oh dear! Maybe I shouldn't hang on to the 10AE dream too tightly then. I suppose a late 1.8 sport would be similar (6sp and LSD are my priorities), just not as fun to look at or sit in.
Either that or a RS, V or VS spec.

I've got a 98 nb RS. Apart from looks (and I'm not personally a fan of the 10Ae blue or chrome wheels) the only difference is the diff ratio, with the 10Ae having the longest final drive of any mk2, which is great for lots of motorway use...

audidoody

8,597 posts

256 months

Friday 24th March 2017
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I've got an immaculate low mileage 1998 Mk 2 garaged since new without any tin worm. But I guess its worth even less than I thought now that this model is associated with rusting rails.

daniel1920

310 posts

118 months

Sunday 11th March 2018
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I’m in for an mot next week. Anyone know the levels of sill rush which is likely to fail the mot? And do I have any chance of passing with the condition shown

I know it doesn’t change the result but helps planning


ShampooEfficient

4,267 posts

211 months

Sunday 11th March 2018
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All depends what its like underneath...

Sway

26,250 posts

194 months

Sunday 11th March 2018
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They tend to rot from the inside out, so by the time you see simkilar to the pic you've posted, usually the sill is pretty done for - and it's close enough to the seatbelt mounting point for a fail...

As always, there's always exceptions, and you might be fine.

daniel1920

310 posts

118 months

Sunday 11th March 2018
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Thanks. Won’t bother repairing it if it fails but will put the money to a nice mk1 to keep