Discussion
55 alive said:
Hi, i'm new to this please bear with me! i have a 1993 mx5 m1 , wondered if anybody has fitted a megasquirt, or indeed any tuning products, to one of these, not sure how to proceed with engine tuning. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Yes, lots and lots of people have.search www.mx5nutz.com and www.miataturbo.net and all your questions will be answered.
Do search and search again before asking questions. Specific questions are easily answered but a copy and paste of your OP won't go down well. There are a lot of variation and derivatives of MegaSquirt. you need to decide if you want to build it yourself, if you want someone else to build it for you, if you want a PnP solution, how much you want to pay/budget, if you're going to tune yourself etc etc
doesn't seem to be much of a scene for NA tuning. It all seems to be Turbo/Supercharged or nothing. But from your questions about megasquirt I assume that's what you are thinking?
Plenty of information about home brew turbo kits out there just google really. As for NA then it seems limited to Filter and exhaust mods. I have seen websites go down the throttle bodies route but it doesn't seem that common.
Plenty of information about home brew turbo kits out there just google really. As for NA then it seems limited to Filter and exhaust mods. I have seen websites go down the throttle bodies route but it doesn't seem that common.
drgoatboy said:
doesn't seem to be much of a scene for NA tuning. It all seems to be Turbo/Supercharged or nothing. But from your questions about megasquirt I assume that's what you are thinking?
Plenty of information about home brew turbo kits out there just google really. As for NA then it seems limited to Filter and exhaust mods. I have seen websites go down the throttle bodies route but it doesn't seem that common.
I'd look harder, there are plenty of people doing n/a work on MX5's.Plenty of information about home brew turbo kits out there just google really. As for NA then it seems limited to Filter and exhaust mods. I have seen websites go down the throttle bodies route but it doesn't seem that common.
n/a power is much harder to obtain though. The B6 and BP engine aren't exactly modern engines, so extracting usable high n/a power is much more expensive and harder work than throwing a turbo kit on. One thing the BP and B6 are though is relatively tough, so they take well to forcing more air in.
BLiNK motorsport in the northwest sell a number of packages for n/a power, from simple bolt ons to fully ported replacement heads. For a similar outlay to a basic M45 supercharger kit you get have around 160bhp n/a.
You won't get near the low end torque of even the cheapest FI kit though.
Read lots and lots on miataturbo and diyautotune.com (highly recommend their book)
I love my turbo but I'm still very tempted to swap out back to na. Early 1.6 car, swap in 1.8 with either a bp4w head or a vvt head, high compression, headers, ecu, intake, running on MAP not maf or am. You should get to 160 crank hp which would be a very good boost from a stock 1.6 reliable, better on fuel! And no heat or packaging issues unlike a turbo.
drgoatboy said:
doesn't seem to be much of a scene for NA tuning. It all seems to be Turbo/Supercharged or nothing.
Disagree! There's plenty out there if you look! I love my turbo but I'm still very tempted to swap out back to na. Early 1.6 car, swap in 1.8 with either a bp4w head or a vvt head, high compression, headers, ecu, intake, running on MAP not maf or am. You should get to 160 crank hp which would be a very good boost from a stock 1.6 reliable, better on fuel! And no heat or packaging issues unlike a turbo.
The reason why there is a lack of n/a tunning compared to fi is that the engine is pretty much the same engine which came from the old 323f turbo so the internals can withstand high power without the need to touch them.
When you can run 180-190bhp with a turbo running a fpr and stock ecu for not much more than £500 then n/a tunning isn't that worth while.
The basic engine can take reliably 250bhp which is plenty for such a small car. The max you will ever get out of the same engine with n/a is around 170-180bhp and that will cost well over 2-3k and for that money could have the mother of all turbo kits from say g19 engineering and have change for suspension upgrades.
When you can run 180-190bhp with a turbo running a fpr and stock ecu for not much more than £500 then n/a tunning isn't that worth while.
The basic engine can take reliably 250bhp which is plenty for such a small car. The max you will ever get out of the same engine with n/a is around 170-180bhp and that will cost well over 2-3k and for that money could have the mother of all turbo kits from say g19 engineering and have change for suspension upgrades.
MG CHRIS said:
The reason why there is a lack of n/a tunning compared to fi is that the engine is pretty much the same engine which came from the old 323f turbo so the internals can withstand high power without the need to touch them.
When you can run 180-190bhp with a turbo running a fpr and stock ecu for not much more than £500 then n/a tunning isn't that worth while.
The basic engine can take reliably 250bhp which is plenty for such a small car. The max you will ever get out of the same engine with n/a is around 170-180bhp and that will cost well over 2-3k and for that money could have the mother of all turbo kits from say g19 engineering and have change for suspension upgrades.
Can I ask what you mean by 'running an FPR' fro £500? I have an MX5 and have toyed with putting a turbo in but have never seriously looked at the prices. £500 looks very nice and 180bhp would be plenty for fun driving.When you can run 180-190bhp with a turbo running a fpr and stock ecu for not much more than £500 then n/a tunning isn't that worth while.
The basic engine can take reliably 250bhp which is plenty for such a small car. The max you will ever get out of the same engine with n/a is around 170-180bhp and that will cost well over 2-3k and for that money could have the mother of all turbo kits from say g19 engineering and have change for suspension upgrades.
ta
By FPR he meant AFPR. All have an FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator). And AFPR is an Auxilliary Fuel Pressure Regulator which allows higher fuel pressure in the fuel rail based on boost pressure which can be used fairly effectively to make sure there is enough fuelling when running in boost.
It's pretty cheap but not very tuneable. To be safe you adjust it so that it is always running a bit rich when in boost (running lean would mean a blown engine quite quickly). It doesn't do anything to the ignition timing so you have to retard it a bit which means a loss of power and efficiency
Running a piggy-back ecu like eManage Blue is far more effective and allows much better control of fuelling and also controls timing (which AFPR doesn't do - you just have to retard the timing to avoid knock).
FI is a case of... Cheap - Reliable - Powerful. You can choose only 2 (which of course can be helped by buying clever).
It's pretty cheap but not very tuneable. To be safe you adjust it so that it is always running a bit rich when in boost (running lean would mean a blown engine quite quickly). It doesn't do anything to the ignition timing so you have to retard it a bit which means a loss of power and efficiency
Running a piggy-back ecu like eManage Blue is far more effective and allows much better control of fuelling and also controls timing (which AFPR doesn't do - you just have to retard the timing to avoid knock).
FI is a case of... Cheap - Reliable - Powerful. You can choose only 2 (which of course can be helped by buying clever).
MX-5 Lazza said:
By FPR he meant AFPR. All have an FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator). And AFPR is an Auxilliary Fuel Pressure Regulator which allows higher fuel pressure in the fuel rail based on boost pressure which can be used fairly effectively to make sure there is enough fuelling when running in boost.
It's pretty cheap but not very tuneable. To be safe you adjust it so that it is always running a bit rich when in boost (running lean would mean a blown engine quite quickly). It doesn't do anything to the ignition timing so you have to retard it a bit which means a loss of power and efficiency
Running a piggy-back ecu like eManage Blue is far more effective and allows much better control of fuelling and also controls timing (which AFPR doesn't do - you just have to retard the timing to avoid knock).
FI is a case of... Cheap - Reliable - Powerful. You can choose only 2 (which of course can be helped by buying clever).
To be pedantic he didn't mean an AFPR, (double pedant, it's adjustable, not auxillary), for a bare bones, you'd use a RRFPR, (rising rate)It's pretty cheap but not very tuneable. To be safe you adjust it so that it is always running a bit rich when in boost (running lean would mean a blown engine quite quickly). It doesn't do anything to the ignition timing so you have to retard it a bit which means a loss of power and efficiency
Running a piggy-back ecu like eManage Blue is far more effective and allows much better control of fuelling and also controls timing (which AFPR doesn't do - you just have to retard the timing to avoid knock).
FI is a case of... Cheap - Reliable - Powerful. You can choose only 2 (which of course can be helped by buying clever).
Richyvrlimited said:
MX-5 Lazza said:
By FPR he meant AFPR. All have an FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator). And AFPR is an Auxilliary Fuel Pressure Regulator which allows higher fuel pressure in the fuel rail based on boost pressure which can be used fairly effectively to make sure there is enough fuelling when running in boost.
It's pretty cheap but not very tuneable. To be safe you adjust it so that it is always running a bit rich when in boost (running lean would mean a blown engine quite quickly). It doesn't do anything to the ignition timing so you have to retard it a bit which means a loss of power and efficiency
Running a piggy-back ecu like eManage Blue is far more effective and allows much better control of fuelling and also controls timing (which AFPR doesn't do - you just have to retard the timing to avoid knock).
FI is a case of... Cheap - Reliable - Powerful. You can choose only 2 (which of course can be helped by buying clever).
To be pedantic he didn't mean an AFPR, (double pedant, it's adjustable, not auxillary), for a bare bones, you'd use a RRFPR, (rising rate)It's pretty cheap but not very tuneable. To be safe you adjust it so that it is always running a bit rich when in boost (running lean would mean a blown engine quite quickly). It doesn't do anything to the ignition timing so you have to retard it a bit which means a loss of power and efficiency
Running a piggy-back ecu like eManage Blue is far more effective and allows much better control of fuelling and also controls timing (which AFPR doesn't do - you just have to retard the timing to avoid knock).
FI is a case of... Cheap - Reliable - Powerful. You can choose only 2 (which of course can be helped by buying clever).
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