1UZ engine swap
Discussion
A bit more progress today.
I got the chassis repair panels from the MX5 Restorer a few weeks ago, so while waiting for subframes and gearbox adapter kits to arrive, it seemed sensible to tackle the chassis arms.
Once in and under, I could see that while it was possible to cut out and fit the repair panels without removing too much, it quickly became apparent that it would be easier with the subframe removed.
As I'm getting a new subframe anyway, there seemed little point in making my life more difficult by leaving the old one in there, so out it came.
Closer inspection shows the passenger side chassis arm is in a pretty bad way, but not quite all the way through yet. Just as well I'm doing it now, tho, I think it would be an MOT failure at least next time round.
I've also removed one of the ARB mounts but will remove the other when I get back to it as, in addition to the 4 bolts, there are two spot-welds that need drilled out to get them off.
It also makes it much easier to see what I need to do to sort out clearances and generally tidy up the engine bay and chassis arms.
I got the chassis repair panels from the MX5 Restorer a few weeks ago, so while waiting for subframes and gearbox adapter kits to arrive, it seemed sensible to tackle the chassis arms.
Once in and under, I could see that while it was possible to cut out and fit the repair panels without removing too much, it quickly became apparent that it would be easier with the subframe removed.
As I'm getting a new subframe anyway, there seemed little point in making my life more difficult by leaving the old one in there, so out it came.
Closer inspection shows the passenger side chassis arm is in a pretty bad way, but not quite all the way through yet. Just as well I'm doing it now, tho, I think it would be an MOT failure at least next time round.
I've also removed one of the ARB mounts but will remove the other when I get back to it as, in addition to the 4 bolts, there are two spot-welds that need drilled out to get them off.
It also makes it much easier to see what I need to do to sort out clearances and generally tidy up the engine bay and chassis arms.
hope its not too bad and you are back in action soon!
Been a slow week with work stuff taking priority and waiting for delivery of a new torch for the mig. That arrived on Thursday so installed it today and after some teething troubles where the wire feed line wasn't being clamped sufficiently, finally got it feeding and beading nicely.
Just need this damned wind to drop as it'll be hard to keep a good gas flow in the current conditions. If it's better tomorrow, I'll crack on with those chassis rails.
Just need this damned wind to drop as it'll be hard to keep a good gas flow in the current conditions. If it's better tomorrow, I'll crack on with those chassis rails.
Edited by feef on Monday 22 August 12:38
Almost finished welding the outside section of the nearside chassis rail.
Ran out of gas! GAH! to be fair, the gasflow WAS turned up to 11 due to it being a bit windy and gusty which wouldn't have helped.
Think I'll get an adapter for the MiG to use full size bottles rather than those silly little hobby jobs.
Ran out of gas! GAH! to be fair, the gasflow WAS turned up to 11 due to it being a bit windy and gusty which wouldn't have helped.
Think I'll get an adapter for the MiG to use full size bottles rather than those silly little hobby jobs.
Bump:
Project has stalled somewhat (if you couldn't tell)
Lack of time mainly, but it's still alive, just glacially slow.
What I HAVE done is got my Raspberry Pi working as an 'immobiliser' using the serial number of whichever USB device is plugged into it.
Simply extracting the serial number using 'lsusb' of all devices plugged in, storing them in a database and then comparing them against permitted devices allows me to control a relay via gpio which will enable/disable the fuel pump (which is all the stock immobiliser does)
The stored data is all encrypted so even if someone accessed the database, they'd not be able to see the serial number to spoof it.
To add some flexibility, I've also added an expiry date to any permitted devices. This means I could use any old USB stick and hand it to a garage for MOT or tyres, and have an expiry date for a day or two so even if it's lost or stolen, it will automatically stop working after a preset time.
I'm finishing off a simple web interface that will ,when connected via wifi, allow me to add devices by plugging them in and hitting 'authorise' along with the expiry date.
last thing I want to do is set it so it operates as an audio processor to simply allow me to stream audio from the phone to the amp.
Project has stalled somewhat (if you couldn't tell)
Lack of time mainly, but it's still alive, just glacially slow.
What I HAVE done is got my Raspberry Pi working as an 'immobiliser' using the serial number of whichever USB device is plugged into it.
Simply extracting the serial number using 'lsusb' of all devices plugged in, storing them in a database and then comparing them against permitted devices allows me to control a relay via gpio which will enable/disable the fuel pump (which is all the stock immobiliser does)
The stored data is all encrypted so even if someone accessed the database, they'd not be able to see the serial number to spoof it.
To add some flexibility, I've also added an expiry date to any permitted devices. This means I could use any old USB stick and hand it to a garage for MOT or tyres, and have an expiry date for a day or two so even if it's lost or stolen, it will automatically stop working after a preset time.
I'm finishing off a simple web interface that will ,when connected via wifi, allow me to add devices by plugging them in and hitting 'authorise' along with the expiry date.
last thing I want to do is set it so it operates as an audio processor to simply allow me to stream audio from the phone to the amp.
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