Seized/sticking calipers.....

Seized/sticking calipers.....

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Discussion

batfink79

Original Poster:

2,653 posts

211 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
quotequote all
Hi all,
I'm finally taking the 5 out of the garage this weekend, after a very boring winter driving a Golf. The problem is that the brakes are binding on/not undoing . Does anyone have any tips on how to sort this out? I'm rubbish at car DIY, but thought the 5 is the perfect opportunity to remedy this, hopefully without causing more headaches! Also, on start up, the engine sounds very tappety ( is this the right word), anyhow a constant tapping can be heard. Does anyone know what this could be, and how I could remedy it!


Thanks all in advance for any help,



Finkers

anonymous-user

55 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
quotequote all
The tapping is probably from the HLAs (basically hydraulic tappets) - try changing the oil (5W40 fully-synthetic shut mine up) and you could also add some HLA treatment - you can get a bottle of Wynns HLA treatment at Halfords, just pour it in with the new oil.

I got my oil from Opie Oils online - http://www.opieoils.co.uk/Default.aspx?
Fuchs TITAN SUPERSYN 5W-40 High Performance, Fully Synthetic, Engine Oil -4 Litres
SKU: FUCSS5W40-4
£24.23

I had a sticking front caliper on my mk1 - you can try removing it and cleaning and greasing the sliders, which is very easy to do and might well help, but in the end I had to get a new (recon) caliper to sort it as I think the piston had corroded. Got mine as a recon-exchange unit from Autolink UK IIRC - http://www.autolinkuk.co.uk/

You'll probably find a good workshop manual very helpful - I use these 2 (for a mk1 1.6):

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mazda-MX5-1-6-Workshop-Man...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Do-Up-Practical-Renovation...


Edited by anonymous-user on Wednesday 25th February 19:13

batfink79

Original Poster:

2,653 posts

211 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
quotequote all
Thanks Jim.

I'll get on the case re the oil and HLA treatment. Is it possible that my calipers will have corroded with being sat in the garage over four months or so? I have taken it out for a quick run round the drive as it has been SORN, but other than that it's not moved much ......

OnlyMX5ives

1,142 posts

193 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
quotequote all
Really it depends what's sticking.

If the pistons were a bit rusty, not using it will allow them to stick and the only cure is replacement.

If you left the handbrake on and its stuck a few metres will usually free it off.

Not sure that brakes are the area for a newbie to learn on though... you may not get a second chance if you mess them up.

batfink79

Original Poster:

2,653 posts

211 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
quotequote all
Fair shout Mark.
I'm not sure I should be messing about with the important bits either! How are you fixed for time at present? I would happily drop it over to you for a once over if that's doable?

anonymous-user

55 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
quotequote all
So long as you make sure you torque up the 2 caliper slider bolts to the correct settings then I can't see much risk to removing and greasing them, certainly it's no more dangerous than for instance changing a wheel after a puncture - do the bolts up right and it's perfectly safe.

If you're in any doubt then test it at fairly low speeds on quiet roads and re-torque the bolts after a few miles to be sure they've not come undone. You'll soon know if the caliper is still sticking as the wheel will get very hot, probably even if you don't touch the brakes (it did on mine - 5 miles from stone cold with no braking at all and the wheel was too hot to touch).

It really is a very simple job to grease the sliders, replacing the caliper is a little more involved though.

bluetone

2,047 posts

220 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
quotequote all
Your tappety HLA racket might be sorted by a good run out ('Italian tune-up' LOL) as the car has not been used for some time, if not then as above = oil change time.

Look up miata.net garage for photo guides for brakes etc. I had never really twirled a spanner in anger before getting my 5 a few years a go and now will at least try and have a go at most jobs; t'interweb is a fab invention for DIYers!

http://www.miata.net/garage/brakepad.html

smile

Edited by bluetone on Wednesday 25th February 21:41

batfink79

Original Poster:

2,653 posts

211 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
quotequote all
bluetone said:
Your tappety HLA racket might be sorted by a good run out ('Italian tune-up' LOL) as the car has not been used for some time, if not then as above = oil change time.

Look up miata.net garage for photo guides for brakes etc. I had never really twirled a spanner in anger before getting my 5 a few years a go and now will at least try and have a go at most jobs; t'interweb is a fab invention for DIYers!

http://www.miata.net/garage/brakepad.html

smile

Edited by bluetone on Wednesday 25th February 21:41
Might be an idea, depends if the brakes are ok I guess, is there any sense in giving it a run up the road and trying the brakes a few times to see if they free up a bit?

OnlyMX5ives

1,142 posts

193 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
quotequote all
batfink79 said:
Might be an idea, depends if the brakes are ok I guess, is there any sense in giving it a run up the road and trying the brakes a few times to see if they free up a bit?
Definately.

But feel free to give me a call if you need to.

I think I have mentioned before that the worst / most dangerous cars I've bought have been from various forum members...

Because other forum members encourage them to do jobs which are beyond their experience / abilites - I'm not neccessarily saying that is the case here but brakes are pretty critical.

Edited by OnlyMX5ives on Wednesday 25th February 23:11

bluetone

2,047 posts

220 months

Thursday 26th February 2009
quotequote all
batfink79 said:
Might be an idea, depends if the brakes are ok I guess, is there any sense in giving it a run up the road and trying the brakes a few times to see if they free up a bit?
Undoubtedly - def' check the brake efficiency at low speed first! If you have a sticking caliper then the affected brake disk will be hot after a run. Potentially very hot, so take it easy whilst checking this out and don't burn your fingers! If in doubt, take it to a professional if you don't fancy doing the job yourself; bear in mind that front brakes the majority of the load so be particularly careful/fastidious with them. Thankfully they are pretty straight-forward, the rears can be a bit tricky due to handbrake mechanism.

Top-Tip: Don't use the handbrake! I gave up using it as a parking brake a while a go and it only really ever gets used on hill starts nowadays = leave the car in-gear when you park instead. The handbrake mechanism is a little flaky on these cars if you ask me and if you left it on for an extended period, I would almost expect this to bind-on eventually..

HTH!