Finally got an mx5!!!.......now what to do first..??
Discussion
1st thing you should do is take it to a respectable mapper and get some det cans on it to confirm that its running ok. As its an import using HKS management chances are it is not mapped for uk fuel. Also look at a dual feed fuel rail. At 6psi it won't have forged internals unless its been blown up once already (quite possible if its never been mapped to uk fuel).
Edited by Herman Toothrot on Tuesday 14th April 13:14
wheels-inmotion said:
Other than the small change in weight, the bracing has no influence on the static geometry calibration, although it's fitment would be taken into consideration in the overall handling package.
Tony, can you please open a branch in Bath/Bristol/Swindon area - you are just too far away!!! bluetone said:
wheels-inmotion said:
Other than the small change in weight, the bracing has no influence on the static geometry calibration, although it's fitment would be taken into consideration in the overall handling package.
Tony, can you please open a branch in Bath/Bristol/Swindon area - you are just too far away!!! Thanks for all the replies, very helpful :-)
I will give Tony a call at WiM and go from there, really want to get the brakes sorted too as I am a bit nervous to go too quickly as I dont think the brakes will stop me if anything goes tits up! Will keep researching this one before I decide which way to go, does anyone know of a good breakers for mx5's? This may help decide for me.
Also, got to give a shout out to Sky insurance! Excellent price today, best previous qoute was Adrian flux and most would either not insure because of the turbo or because of the roll cage. Adrian flux was £540 fully comp 3k limited mileage and sky came in at £400! Bargain! Cant wait to take it to work tomorrow....hopefully the weather will hold out.....
I will give Tony a call at WiM and go from there, really want to get the brakes sorted too as I am a bit nervous to go too quickly as I dont think the brakes will stop me if anything goes tits up! Will keep researching this one before I decide which way to go, does anyone know of a good breakers for mx5's? This may help decide for me.
Also, got to give a shout out to Sky insurance! Excellent price today, best previous qoute was Adrian flux and most would either not insure because of the turbo or because of the roll cage. Adrian flux was £540 fully comp 3k limited mileage and sky came in at £400! Bargain! Cant wait to take it to work tomorrow....hopefully the weather will hold out.....
hi mate, as above, get some decent tyres on - some like toyo's and f1's - which i find ok but i think i prefer the conventional tread pattern rather than the V's - certainly the hankook RS2 are the best tyre i've had on mine but it's not exactly a like for like comparison.
for brakes, it's a light car, just go for the 1.8 set-up. the sport is probably better but it's a lot more difficult to get hold of and a lot more expensive. the car doesn't need 4 pots and none of these conversions touch the rear, which i don't think is very good. get decent pads, either mintex M1144 or axxiss ultimate, and genuine mazda discs and new fluid and you'll be set.
then alignment. get a full 4 wheel alignment, doesn't have to be at WIM but the great thing about tony, aside from the fact that he knows what he's doing and has done loads of 5's is that you can set yourself on a base alignment, and drive it around, and then go back for a tweak at reduced cost based on what you've found. most places would just charge you again if you wanted to change anything. then again, he has 'fast road' settings (etc.) so can probably dial your car in pretty close to how you want it anyway.
front lower brace is probably worth doing, doesn't matter before or after alignment tho. top brace, if you look at the loads going into a double wishbone damper, the tops aren't subjected to any sideways force so if it means moving stuff about in the engine bay don't bother. rear lower brace maybe worth doing too but same goes for rear suspension upper brace (which also tend to be hideously expensive).
for brakes, it's a light car, just go for the 1.8 set-up. the sport is probably better but it's a lot more difficult to get hold of and a lot more expensive. the car doesn't need 4 pots and none of these conversions touch the rear, which i don't think is very good. get decent pads, either mintex M1144 or axxiss ultimate, and genuine mazda discs and new fluid and you'll be set.
then alignment. get a full 4 wheel alignment, doesn't have to be at WIM but the great thing about tony, aside from the fact that he knows what he's doing and has done loads of 5's is that you can set yourself on a base alignment, and drive it around, and then go back for a tweak at reduced cost based on what you've found. most places would just charge you again if you wanted to change anything. then again, he has 'fast road' settings (etc.) so can probably dial your car in pretty close to how you want it anyway.
front lower brace is probably worth doing, doesn't matter before or after alignment tho. top brace, if you look at the loads going into a double wishbone damper, the tops aren't subjected to any sideways force so if it means moving stuff about in the engine bay don't bother. rear lower brace maybe worth doing too but same goes for rear suspension upper brace (which also tend to be hideously expensive).
Thanks for the replies, I am planning on doing the 1.8 upgrade next weekend. Got a full set of caliper brackets on their way, going for standard discs, goodrich hoses, and not yet decided on pads. May go with the mazda standard pads or axxis ultimates depending on funds.
Would it be worth changing the brake fluid at the same time and fitting some speed bleeders? If so, what fluid? dot 5?
Thanks
Ben
Would it be worth changing the brake fluid at the same time and fitting some speed bleeders? If so, what fluid? dot 5?
Thanks
Ben
Herman Toothrot said:
1st thing you should do is take it to a respectable mapper and get some det cans on it to confirm that its running ok. As its an import using HKS management chances are it is not mapped for uk fuel. Also look at a dual feed fuel rail. At 6psi it won't have forged internals unless its been blown up once already (quite possible if its never been mapped to uk fuel).
This is the best advice. Once done, alignment should be next. Honestly, get the tuning checked first.Edited by Herman Toothrot on Tuesday 14th April 13:14
[quote=Herman Toothrot]1st thing you should do is take it to a respectable mapper and get some det cans on it to confirm that its running ok. As its an import using HKS management chances are it is not mapped for uk fuel. Also look at a dual feed fuel rail. At 6psi it won't have forged internals unless its been blown up once already (quite possible if its never been mapped to uk fuel).
So can anyone recommend me a decent mapper in the hants area and roughly how much this would cost? Also, what dual feed fuel rail should I be looking at and is it something I can do myself - keen to get my hands dirty!
Thanks
Ben
So can anyone recommend me a decent mapper in the hants area and roughly how much this would cost? Also, what dual feed fuel rail should I be looking at and is it something I can do myself - keen to get my hands dirty!
Thanks
Ben
ben@fareham said:
So can anyone recommend me a decent mapper in the hants area and roughly how much this would cost? Also, what dual feed fuel rail should I be looking at and is it something I can do myself - keen to get my hands dirty!
Thanks
Ben
No need to prioritise the dual feed rail, its effectiveness is not conclusively proven and your stock rail will cope with your current boost levels and more besides.Thanks
Ben
This guy comes highly recommended, but I'm not sure how far it is from you. He knows mx5's so should be a good bet.
http://www.afrtuning.co.uk/contact-us.asp
Edited by maz8062 on Sunday 19th April 10:37
Edited by maz8062 on Sunday 19th April 22:15
ben@fareham said:
Would it be worth changing the brake fluid at the same time and fitting some speed bleeders? If so, what fluid? dot 5?
Thanks
Ben
definitely, even decent stuff like motul rbf600 is quite cheap and it makes a big difference. otherwise go for DOT4, super DOT4, or DOT5.1 - do not use DOT5 as it's not compatible with what you have in there at the moment.Thanks
Ben
personally i don't see the point of speed bleeders, i do a one man job without all the one way valves and stuff just on standard bits.
Thanks for that, will pick some up ready for the weekend.
personally i don't see the point of speed bleeders, i do a one man job without all the one way valves and stuff just on standard bits.
[/quote]
How do you manage that? I will have help this time so will be ok for now but would be handy to know any hints and tips!
personally i don't see the point of speed bleeders, i do a one man job without all the one way valves and stuff just on standard bits.
[/quote]
How do you manage that? I will have help this time so will be ok for now but would be handy to know any hints and tips!
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