JFReturns Mark 1 MX5 Project

[JFReturns]

Hi all,

Thought I would introduce myself and the '5 here on Pistonheads. It's a 1991 1.6, 120,000 miles and (bodywork wise) in great condition:









First few mods were induction kit (old filter was filthy and rotten) and lights (originals were like candles!)





Next up was a cat back stainless steel exhaust



Certainly *feels* much quicker after the breathing mods, and certainly sounds it! So after three months and 1000 miles, I was having a blast in the '5. Until last Friday.



Broke down on Sittingbourne high street at rush hour, and whilst waiting for the AA, had to explain several times to a nice lady from the council office that no, I can't move it, I HAVE BROKEN DOWN!!!!!!! Apparently the slave cyclinder had failed so the clutch pedal was not holding it's pressure. So, the '5 is currently back where I brought it getting repaired (hopefully) under warranty. Once I have her running perfectly, the tuning will commence in roughly this order:


- Original wheels to replace silly aftermarket ones
- TR Lane roll bar
- Uprated suspension
- Better cold air feed
- Better brakes
- Sticky tyres
- Finally, forced induction

Comments, suggestions on mods etc most welcome!

J

[Gizmo!]

Welcome!

Slave cylinders seem to go relatively regularly - or perhaps it's just something that should be changed at 100k and no-one does, so everyone finds the same problem (mine got changed in Sept at 110k).

Looks a nice shiny example, always good to have another one in the fold.

[Munter]

Gizmo! said:

Welcome!

Slave cylinders seem to go relatively regularly - or perhaps it's just something that should be changed at 100k and no-one does, so everyone finds the same problem (mine got changed in Sept at 110k).

Looks a nice shiny example, always good to have another one in the fold.

Mine went at about 70k. So I don't think that's a hard and fast rule to avoid trouble! But it would have been 10 years.

Bit of a bugger for me as it decided I couldn't put it in gear in lane 3 of the M6 at rush hour....I thought it felt odd that morning.

[Altrezia]

Looks great on those later spec wheels.

[JFReturns]

Gizmo! said:

Welcome!

Slave cylinders seem to go relatively regularly - or perhaps it's just something that should be changed at 100k and no-one does, so everyone finds the same problem (mine got changed in Sept at 110k).

Looks a nice shiny example, always good to have another one in the fold.

Thanks!

Munter said:

Mine went at about 70k. So I don't think that's a hard and fast rule to avoid trouble! But it would have been 10 years.

Bit of a bugger for me as it decided I couldn't put it in gear in lane 3 of the M6 at rush hour....I thought it felt odd that morning.

I guess I was lucky in that respect - I had a mate with me to help push and I was stuck in traffic rather than on the motorway!

Altrezia said:

Looks great on those later spec wheels.

Not sure which wheels you are referring to, but I have already brought the standard 14" Minilite style alloys (not sure what they are called). These ones:

[MX-5 Lazza]

JFReturns said:

Altrezia said:

Looks great on those later spec wheels.

Not sure which wheels you are referring to...

They look like Mk2.5 Arctic wheels...

Edited by MX-5 Lazza on Tuesday 26th January 08:56

[tuttle]

JFReturns said:

Not sure which wheels you are referring to, but I have already brought the standard 14" Minilite style alloys (not sure what they are called). These ones:

Hello & welcome to the forum.
I believe those wheels are known as "Daisys". The mini-lite types are usually the Japanese made Watanabe wheels, which are VERY excellent & light, like these :-)

[JFReturns]

Ah right, thanks for confirming that tuttle! The Watanabe alloys look shexy

[JFReturns]

MX-5 Lazza said:

JFReturns said:

Altrezia said:

Looks great on those later spec wheels.

Not sure which wheels you are referring to...

They look like Mk2.5 Arctic wheels...

Sorry mate, I'm still a little confused - do you think the wheels I have on the car now are standard?

I'm pretty sure they are after market as they are Mille Miglias....

[MX-5 Lazza]

Yeah, I meant to say they look like Arctic wheels - not that they are

[JFReturns]

Gotcha!

Well either way they are coming off because I don't like them...

[JFReturns]

Small update - car has been fixed (slave cyclinder failed) and I had an awesome lunchtime blast just now in the sunshine

I have just brought a headlight intake cover and paint so hopefully I will be able to fit that tomorrow along with a new centre console. Pics tomorrow, assuming weather is reasonable!

[JFReturns]

Few updates - firstly the centre console has been broken since I had it, probably because of a botched attempt to take the stereo out, so I replaced that and took the stereo out as I never use it.

Before:


After:


Not really sure what to do with the big panel gap yet :?

Also painted and fitted an air intake headlight cover which blows cold air straight onto the K&N filter:



Comments and suggestions welcome!

[Munter]

If you really never use the stereo I'd see about fashioning a blanking plate and rigging up a clock/temp gauge.

Something like this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Digital-Auto-Car-Thermometer...

Edit:Because despite a degree in media technology I can't spell stereo....

Edited by Munter on Monday 22 February 08:34

[Evangelion]

I'm just about to fit one of those louvred headlight covers to mine - do you need to cut a hole in the rear of the light pod as well, to make sure the air reaches the engine bay rather than getting trapped in the light pod?

[JFReturns]

Munter said:

If you really never use the stereo I'd see about fashioning a blanking plate and rigging up a clock/temp gauge.

Something like this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Digital-Auto-Car-Thermometer...

Edit:Because despite a degree in media technology I can't spell stereo....

Edited by Munter on Monday 22 February 08:34

Good idea, I like it. Ideally I would like a carbon fibre blank but then I would have to do the whole interior to match...

[JFReturns]

Evangelion said:

I'm just about to fit one of those louvred headlight covers to mine - do you need to cut a hole in the rear of the light pod as well, to make sure the air reaches the engine bay rather than getting trapped in the light pod?

I don't think so, but I will check as soon as the rain stops (i.e. at the weekend!). I was thinking of connecting some tubing to direct the flow right onto the K&N but I don't think this is necessary.

Some advice - I broke two screwdrivers trying to undo the screws, and failed. I then realised I was undoing the wrong side, and luckily the correct side was fine. So:

- make sure you are unscrewing the correct side, unlike me..
- soak the screws in WD40 and give them a bash the day before you try taking them out to loosen
- don't use halfords screwdrivers, they are crap

[trooperiziz]

Evangelion said:

I'm just about to fit one of those louvred headlight covers to mine - do you need to cut a hole in the rear of the light pod as well, to make sure the air reaches the engine bay rather than getting trapped in the light pod?

You need to remove the plastic strips from around the bonnet that will block the airflow, they just unscrew.

[JFReturns]

trooperiziz said:

Evangelion said:

I'm just about to fit one of those louvred headlight covers to mine - do you need to cut a hole in the rear of the light pod as well, to make sure the air reaches the engine bay rather than getting trapped in the light pod?

You need to remove the plastic strips from around the bonnet that will block the airflow, they just unscrew.

Yup, just done this. I didn't see it before as its attached to the bonnet

[tuttle]

trooperiziz said:

You need to remove the plastic strips from around the bonnet that will block the airflow, they just unscrew.

What strips?