Time Matters - The Watchfinder.co.uk advice thread
Discussion
If you have any watch related questions, here's the place to ask them. This thread is manned by the team from Watchfinder.co.uk - more specifically by Alex the sales manager, Jon the purchasing manager, Sean the servicing manager and Andrew editor of The Watch magazine.
We will be on hand to give you advice and satiate your curiosity when it comes to watches, from the most popular to the most obscure, from the most affordable to the most lavish. Got a question about Rolex bracelet fitment? Ask it. Want to know what a tourbillion is and how it works? We can tell you. Wondering what Jacques-Yves Cousteau's OTHER watch was? Put us to the test.
So if you have any questions, feel free to ask them here, or if you'd prefer to phone us, you can do so on 0844 247 8884 and you can also email us at PH@watchfinder.co.uk. Don't forget, you can also download our free iPad magazine, The Watch, for the very latest news and reviews from the horological arena too.
http://www.watchfinder.co.uk
http://app.thewatchmagazine.com
To get things started, we've compiled a short list of frequently asked questions to help you on your way to owning and enjoying fine watches:
FAQs
Q) Which is better, mechanical or quartz?
A) First things first - a mechanical movement is one that uses no electrical components in its operation, and most often stores its power in a coiled spring that is released in controlled intervals (called regulation) via a type of ratchet mechanism known as an escapement. A quartz movement uses an electrical current to generate a very precise vibration through a quartz crystal, regulating the timekeeping extremely accurately.
Neither is better than the other, and your choice is dependent on your requirements. Both mechanical and quartz movements can be made cheaply and expensively, and have very different flaws and benefits. For some, the attraction of a fully-mechanical movement is enough to sway them, whereas for others, the shock-resistance, battery life and accuracy of a quartz movement is much more convenient.
Q) What's the difference between a manual movement and an automatic movement?
A) Both manual and automatic movements rely on the winding of a coiled spring for power, and the difference lies in how those springs are wound. For a manually wound movement, it must be coiled by turning the crown, around forty times from completely unwound for most watches with a two day power reserve. An automatic watch can also be wound via the crown, but in addition it has an oscillating weight that winds the watch up through regular wrist movement as well. These automatic movements usually have a clutch to stop overwinding.
Q) Can I take my watch in the shower/swimming/to the bottom of the Mariana Trench?
A) The water resistance of a watch is not as clear cut as it could be, so here is a general guide to what you can and can't do with your watch in water:
Q) Does my watch need servicing?
A) Manufacturer guidelines will state what the servicing intervals are for your watch, but they are usually set at around three to five years apart. The scaled torque produced by a mechanical watch movement is higher than that of a sports car engine, so it is imperative that it is cleaned and re-oiled at the recommended intervals for a long, accurate life. Manufacturer or third party warranties may also require servicing at set periods to remain valid.
Q) I've scratched my watch! Argghhh!!!
A) This isn't really a question, but here's an answer anyway. Depending on the material, finish and severity of the damage, a watch can be repaired in different ways, often with refinishing rather than replacement. The rule of thumb is that if the damage can be felt with a fingernail, it will require a professional refinish, but for light swirls on a polished steel finish, a microfibre cloth and some gentle metal polishing compound (with adequate masking around the affected area) will do the trick. For brushed/bead-blasted steel and titanium, a professional refinish is most likely required. Be careful when polishing white and rose gold, which may have a surface plating to achieve its colour.
Metal bezels can usually be replaced at fairly little expense, but ceramic ones are a lot more costly, as are ceramic/PVD coatings on cases. Older crystals, made from acrylic, can be polished with a light plastic polishing compound, but modern synthetic sapphire crystals will need replacing.
Q) Is my watch fake?
A) If you have a cause for concern that your watch might be fake, the chances are that it probably is. Unfortunately, the fake watch industry is producing imitations that are extremely close to the originals, and, in isolation, can be near on impossible to spot. The best advice is to research the seller before purchasing to make sure that they are trustworthy and that you have a source of recompense should things go awry. To be one hundred percent sure that your watch is not fake, take it to a reputable retailer and ask them to look inside the watch for you. They will be able to run the serial number against manufacturer databases, as well as inspect the movement for authenticity.
Q) Are in-house movements better?
A) It's always nice when a manufacturer creates their own movement, but it's not the be-all and end-all of watch appreciation. For time-only watches, or watches with fairly standard complications, the element of reinventing the wheel does not always outweigh the extra cost of in-house production. An off-the-shelf movement from the likes of ETA, Soprod or Sellita, for example, can be set up to be just as accurate, and can be manufactured with a number of different grades of finish. Some manufacturers will even replace and refinish parts of these bought-in movements, a good halfway-house between the two options
We will be on hand to give you advice and satiate your curiosity when it comes to watches, from the most popular to the most obscure, from the most affordable to the most lavish. Got a question about Rolex bracelet fitment? Ask it. Want to know what a tourbillion is and how it works? We can tell you. Wondering what Jacques-Yves Cousteau's OTHER watch was? Put us to the test.
So if you have any questions, feel free to ask them here, or if you'd prefer to phone us, you can do so on 0844 247 8884 and you can also email us at PH@watchfinder.co.uk. Don't forget, you can also download our free iPad magazine, The Watch, for the very latest news and reviews from the horological arena too.
http://www.watchfinder.co.uk
http://app.thewatchmagazine.com
To get things started, we've compiled a short list of frequently asked questions to help you on your way to owning and enjoying fine watches:
FAQs
Q) Which is better, mechanical or quartz?
A) First things first - a mechanical movement is one that uses no electrical components in its operation, and most often stores its power in a coiled spring that is released in controlled intervals (called regulation) via a type of ratchet mechanism known as an escapement. A quartz movement uses an electrical current to generate a very precise vibration through a quartz crystal, regulating the timekeeping extremely accurately.
Neither is better than the other, and your choice is dependent on your requirements. Both mechanical and quartz movements can be made cheaply and expensively, and have very different flaws and benefits. For some, the attraction of a fully-mechanical movement is enough to sway them, whereas for others, the shock-resistance, battery life and accuracy of a quartz movement is much more convenient.
Q) What's the difference between a manual movement and an automatic movement?
A) Both manual and automatic movements rely on the winding of a coiled spring for power, and the difference lies in how those springs are wound. For a manually wound movement, it must be coiled by turning the crown, around forty times from completely unwound for most watches with a two day power reserve. An automatic watch can also be wound via the crown, but in addition it has an oscillating weight that winds the watch up through regular wrist movement as well. These automatic movements usually have a clutch to stop overwinding.
Q) Can I take my watch in the shower/swimming/to the bottom of the Mariana Trench?
A) The water resistance of a watch is not as clear cut as it could be, so here is a general guide to what you can and can't do with your watch in water:
- 30m (3ATM/3BAR) - Accidental splashes, contact with light rain
- 50m (5ATM/5BAR) - Surface swimming, wearing in the shower
- 100m (10ATM/10BAR) - Snorkeling, Shallow diving
- 200m (20ATM/20BAR) - Scuba diving
- 1000m+ (100ATM+/100BAR+) - Professional saturation diving
Q) Does my watch need servicing?
A) Manufacturer guidelines will state what the servicing intervals are for your watch, but they are usually set at around three to five years apart. The scaled torque produced by a mechanical watch movement is higher than that of a sports car engine, so it is imperative that it is cleaned and re-oiled at the recommended intervals for a long, accurate life. Manufacturer or third party warranties may also require servicing at set periods to remain valid.
Q) I've scratched my watch! Argghhh!!!
A) This isn't really a question, but here's an answer anyway. Depending on the material, finish and severity of the damage, a watch can be repaired in different ways, often with refinishing rather than replacement. The rule of thumb is that if the damage can be felt with a fingernail, it will require a professional refinish, but for light swirls on a polished steel finish, a microfibre cloth and some gentle metal polishing compound (with adequate masking around the affected area) will do the trick. For brushed/bead-blasted steel and titanium, a professional refinish is most likely required. Be careful when polishing white and rose gold, which may have a surface plating to achieve its colour.
Metal bezels can usually be replaced at fairly little expense, but ceramic ones are a lot more costly, as are ceramic/PVD coatings on cases. Older crystals, made from acrylic, can be polished with a light plastic polishing compound, but modern synthetic sapphire crystals will need replacing.
Q) Is my watch fake?
A) If you have a cause for concern that your watch might be fake, the chances are that it probably is. Unfortunately, the fake watch industry is producing imitations that are extremely close to the originals, and, in isolation, can be near on impossible to spot. The best advice is to research the seller before purchasing to make sure that they are trustworthy and that you have a source of recompense should things go awry. To be one hundred percent sure that your watch is not fake, take it to a reputable retailer and ask them to look inside the watch for you. They will be able to run the serial number against manufacturer databases, as well as inspect the movement for authenticity.
Q) Are in-house movements better?
A) It's always nice when a manufacturer creates their own movement, but it's not the be-all and end-all of watch appreciation. For time-only watches, or watches with fairly standard complications, the element of reinventing the wheel does not always outweigh the extra cost of in-house production. An off-the-shelf movement from the likes of ETA, Soprod or Sellita, for example, can be set up to be just as accurate, and can be manufactured with a number of different grades of finish. Some manufacturers will even replace and refinish parts of these bought-in movements, a good halfway-house between the two options
Good evening all.
I'm Alex and I run the sales department of Watchfinder. If you have any questions relating to a watch you're looking to buy or something we have in stock, let me know. Even if you need advice on a price for a watch elsewhere I'll do my best to help.
The people who'll be helping me answer your questions will be our purchasing manager Jon, Andrew who edits our magazine, and Sean who runs our servicing department.
Whatever your query we'll do our best to help. I'll personally be looking forward to hearing from any of you that share my passion for 80's hot hatches!
I'm Alex and I run the sales department of Watchfinder. If you have any questions relating to a watch you're looking to buy or something we have in stock, let me know. Even if you need advice on a price for a watch elsewhere I'll do my best to help.
The people who'll be helping me answer your questions will be our purchasing manager Jon, Andrew who edits our magazine, and Sean who runs our servicing department.
Whatever your query we'll do our best to help. I'll personally be looking forward to hearing from any of you that share my passion for 80's hot hatches!
Looking after my new Speedmaster Pro
OK, as a novice watchhunter / owner, I'll ask the first question here.
My other half bought me a brand new Omega Speedmaster Pro (3570.50) last week; my first proper mechanical watch. I'm storing it face up in the original box overnight and winding once each morning when I get up (roughly 15-20 turns until the crown begins to tighten).
I noticed this morning the watch had stopped at 6:30am. It could be paranoia on my part, but after re-setting and winding it seems to be running slightly fast. I'll probably wait and see how it settles down over the course of today and tomorrow, but is there anything I should be doing to store it / wind it differently, and do these watches tend to have a 'bedding-in' period before the timekeeping becomes more consistent? Also, what's the best way to check the accuracy over time?
TIA,
Gareth
OK, as a novice watchhunter / owner, I'll ask the first question here.
My other half bought me a brand new Omega Speedmaster Pro (3570.50) last week; my first proper mechanical watch. I'm storing it face up in the original box overnight and winding once each morning when I get up (roughly 15-20 turns until the crown begins to tighten).
I noticed this morning the watch had stopped at 6:30am. It could be paranoia on my part, but after re-setting and winding it seems to be running slightly fast. I'll probably wait and see how it settles down over the course of today and tomorrow, but is there anything I should be doing to store it / wind it differently, and do these watches tend to have a 'bedding-in' period before the timekeeping becomes more consistent? Also, what's the best way to check the accuracy over time?
TIA,
Gareth
Thanks for your question.
If you can give me a bit more info I should be able to help here. Firstly, are you wearing the watch in the daytime? Secondly, did it stop 1 or 2 days after you wound it?
To test the accuracy I’d suggest you synchronise it with a digital clock/phone/pc, wind it every day then go back to the same clock and compare the time 4 or 5 days later. Omega quote a tolerance of -1 to +11 seconds per day for this movement so you should be somewhere in that range.
If you can give me a bit more info I should be able to help here. Firstly, are you wearing the watch in the daytime? Secondly, did it stop 1 or 2 days after you wound it?
To test the accuracy I’d suggest you synchronise it with a digital clock/phone/pc, wind it every day then go back to the same clock and compare the time 4 or 5 days later. Omega quote a tolerance of -1 to +11 seconds per day for this movement so you should be somewhere in that range.
Thanks Alex,
Yep, wearing the watch during the daytime and it stopped just under 24 hours after the last wind.
Now sync'd with a digital clock so will monitor it over the next few days. Quite happy with Omega's quoted tolerances but the second-hand dial seemed to be whizzing round much faster this morning, though seems to have settled now.
Yep, wearing the watch during the daytime and it stopped just under 24 hours after the last wind.
Now sync'd with a digital clock so will monitor it over the next few days. Quite happy with Omega's quoted tolerances but the second-hand dial seemed to be whizzing round much faster this morning, though seems to have settled now.
ShortShift811 said:
Thanks Alex,
Yep, wearing the watch during the daytime and it stopped just under 24 hours after the last wind.
Now sync'd with a digital clock so will monitor it over the next few days. Quite happy with Omega's quoted tolerances but the second-hand dial seemed to be whizzing round much faster this morning, though seems to have settled now.
Great, what I suggest is that when you wind the watch you wind it until it can't be wound anymore. The movement has a mechanism that prevents over-winding, but by winding it fully you'll have the greatest chance of achieving the 36-40 hour power reserve that Omega quote for the watch. Yep, wearing the watch during the daytime and it stopped just under 24 hours after the last wind.
Now sync'd with a digital clock so will monitor it over the next few days. Quite happy with Omega's quoted tolerances but the second-hand dial seemed to be whizzing round much faster this morning, though seems to have settled now.
As for the timing, keep an eye on it now for the next few days and monitor it's progress. The reason I asked about whether it's being worn is that in one position the watch may gain or lose a certain amount, but in a different position it will gain or lose a different amount, so wearing it evens it out.
Once you're done with monitoring the timing, I'd suggest a full wind and then leave it to stop - and see how long it runs for.
Hi,
Just a couple of questions if i may......
I thinking of selling / trading a couple of watches and replacing them,
1st is a Omega speedmaster reduced size that i bought in 2005 (i think) and is in very good condition.
2nd is a Breitling Navitimer A23322 (black, numberless dial) dated 2005 with a stainless bracelet also in very good condition.
Would you be able to give me a guide price for these watches also your thoughts on Rolex submariner & sea dweller as i am thinking of replacing mine with one of these.
Cheers
ETA both have original boxes and all paperwork / certs etc
Just a couple of questions if i may......
I thinking of selling / trading a couple of watches and replacing them,
1st is a Omega speedmaster reduced size that i bought in 2005 (i think) and is in very good condition.
2nd is a Breitling Navitimer A23322 (black, numberless dial) dated 2005 with a stainless bracelet also in very good condition.
Would you be able to give me a guide price for these watches also your thoughts on Rolex submariner & sea dweller as i am thinking of replacing mine with one of these.
Cheers
ETA both have original boxes and all paperwork / certs etc
Edited by ROB_GTR on Tuesday 14th August 03:21
ROB_GTR said:
Hi,
Just a couple of questions if i may......
I thinking of selling / trading a couple of watches and replacing them,
1st is a Omega speedmaster reduced size that i bought in 2005 (i think) and is in very good condition.
2nd is a Breitling Navitimer A23322 (black, numberless dial) dated 2005 with a stainless bracelet also in very good condition.
Would you be able to give me a guide price for these watches also your thoughts on Rolex submariner & sea dweller as i am thinking of replacing mine with one of these.
Cheers
ETA both have original boxes and all paperwork / certs etc
Thanks for your enquiry, drop me a PM or a call on 01622 621801 and we can discuss some prices.Just a couple of questions if i may......
I thinking of selling / trading a couple of watches and replacing them,
1st is a Omega speedmaster reduced size that i bought in 2005 (i think) and is in very good condition.
2nd is a Breitling Navitimer A23322 (black, numberless dial) dated 2005 with a stainless bracelet also in very good condition.
Would you be able to give me a guide price for these watches also your thoughts on Rolex submariner & sea dweller as i am thinking of replacing mine with one of these.
Cheers
ETA both have original boxes and all paperwork / certs etc
Edited by ROB_GTR on Tuesday 14th August 03:21
jmandkm said:
Hi Alex
I have three automatic watches, i don't change them that often. Should I keep the ones that I am not wearing on a winder?
Regards
John
A winder is useful to keep your watches fully wound and telling the right time, particularly if you have complicated calendar watches that are fiddly and time consuming to reset. Modern oils don't tend to coagulate, so a winder won't benefit the running of the movement in any way from a mechanically sympathetic point of view, save to keep it running in long periods of inactivity.I have three automatic watches, i don't change them that often. Should I keep the ones that I am not wearing on a winder?
Regards
John
Alex
Although not a question more of a moan, I came across Watchfinder the later part of 2011 buying 4 watches in the last 3 months a Breitling Navitimer World, Raymond Weil Parsifal,Tag Monaco and the last one in December a Cartier Santos Quartz and it's this one I had a problem with.
Around 6 months or so into ownership it stopped working, so thought it was the battery but when speaking to your service dept was told although they would replace the battery free of charge under warranty the postage and insurance was to be by me and nonrefundable. I took exception to this and had the battery changed at a local Cartier dealer, since the I have purchased about 8 or 10 watches but none from Watchfinder although I still do look at your site.
A paragraph from your terms.
In addition, please note that the watch must be delivered to our Maidstone office and be adequately insured, both at your expense. The warranty is in addition to your statutory and common law rights.
Steve
Although not a question more of a moan, I came across Watchfinder the later part of 2011 buying 4 watches in the last 3 months a Breitling Navitimer World, Raymond Weil Parsifal,Tag Monaco and the last one in December a Cartier Santos Quartz and it's this one I had a problem with.
Around 6 months or so into ownership it stopped working, so thought it was the battery but when speaking to your service dept was told although they would replace the battery free of charge under warranty the postage and insurance was to be by me and nonrefundable. I took exception to this and had the battery changed at a local Cartier dealer, since the I have purchased about 8 or 10 watches but none from Watchfinder although I still do look at your site.
A paragraph from your terms.
In addition, please note that the watch must be delivered to our Maidstone office and be adequately insured, both at your expense. The warranty is in addition to your statutory and common law rights.
Steve
Piks said:
Alex
Although not a question more of a moan, I came across Watchfinder the later part of 2011 buying 4 watches in the last 3 months a Breitling Navitimer World, Raymond Weil Parsifal,Tag Monaco and the last one in December a Cartier Santos Quartz and it's this one I had a problem with.
Around 6 months or so into ownership it stopped working, so thought it was the battery but when speaking to your service dept was told although they would replace the battery free of charge under warranty the postage and insurance was to be by me and nonrefundable. I took exception to this and had the battery changed at a local Cartier dealer, since the I have purchased about 8 or 10 watches but none from Watchfinder although I still do look at your site.
A paragraph from your terms.
In addition, please note that the watch must be delivered to our Maidstone office and be adequately insured, both at your expense. The warranty is in addition to your statutory and common law rights.
Steve
Thanks for your comments. Having contacted us to raise an issue with your watch you would have been told that we would happily rectify the problem free of charge under our warranty. Like all the major watch retailers and manufacturers we are not required to cover the cost of return postage to us, but would of course cover the cost of sending the watch back to you. It is of course within our gift to make an exception and refund your postage costs, if you had raised this issue we may well have done so in this case. In this case the watch would then have been returned to Cartier by us as it is still under their warranty. I’m sure they have repaired it satisfactorily for you. If there’s anything we can do for you please don’t hesitate to contact me.Although not a question more of a moan, I came across Watchfinder the later part of 2011 buying 4 watches in the last 3 months a Breitling Navitimer World, Raymond Weil Parsifal,Tag Monaco and the last one in December a Cartier Santos Quartz and it's this one I had a problem with.
Around 6 months or so into ownership it stopped working, so thought it was the battery but when speaking to your service dept was told although they would replace the battery free of charge under warranty the postage and insurance was to be by me and nonrefundable. I took exception to this and had the battery changed at a local Cartier dealer, since the I have purchased about 8 or 10 watches but none from Watchfinder although I still do look at your site.
A paragraph from your terms.
In addition, please note that the watch must be delivered to our Maidstone office and be adequately insured, both at your expense. The warranty is in addition to your statutory and common law rights.
Steve
alexstonely said:
I'm Alex and I run the sales department of Watchfinder. If you have any questions relating to a watch you're looking to buy or something we have in stock, let me know.
Hi Alex, not sure if this is the place for this but I'll ask anyway. I'm looking for a JLC Reverso Shadow Grande Taille, preferably with a black deployant strap, but they seem few and far between. If you come across a decent one can you PM me? Thanks Rich...kazste said:
A question if I may, I have a tag heuer micro timer which keeps terrible time for a digital quartz watch,it loses approx a minute per quarter year, is this acceptable or can I get it regulated in some way?
Thanks for your question.The accuracy that you're referring to is within the tolerance for the movement. I appreciate you may expect absolute accuracy but if you were to break down the amount of time it loses it's 0.6 seconds per day! If you have any concerns then there is no harm in having it checked over however.
AlexWF said:
kazste said:
A question if I may, I have a tag heuer micro timer which keeps terrible time for a digital quartz watch,it loses approx a minute per quarter year, is this acceptable or can I get it regulated in some way?
Thanks for your question.The accuracy that you're referring to is within the tolerance for the movement. I appreciate you may expect absolute accuracy but if you were to break down the amount of time it loses it's 0.6 seconds per day! If you have any concerns then there is no harm in having it checked over however.
Hi,
Hoping for some info on the below watch if possible.
http://watchfinder.co.uk/Omega/Seamaster%20Chrono%...
Looking for a watch for my 30th, fancied a planet ocean, however just a bit out of my price range currently!
Could you let me know the reason why this watch appears to have an extended guarantee and also the buy back guarantee? When others similar don't.
Also could you let me know if you have any further pictures of the watch available?
Thanks in advance guys!
Kris
Hoping for some info on the below watch if possible.
http://watchfinder.co.uk/Omega/Seamaster%20Chrono%...
Looking for a watch for my 30th, fancied a planet ocean, however just a bit out of my price range currently!
Could you let me know the reason why this watch appears to have an extended guarantee and also the buy back guarantee? When others similar don't.
Also could you let me know if you have any further pictures of the watch available?
Thanks in advance guys!
Kris
Glideman said:
I'm looking to buy a Rolex Deepsea & was wondering why your prices for this watch are about £1,000 dearer for a second hand watch than some dealers are selling them new? Do you have room for movement on the price?
Hi, thanks for your question.The RRP of the current SeaDweller Deepsea is £8050, we've got two of them on our website at the moment. One which is completely unworn for £7450 and a 2nd hand one (a year old) for £6950.
Send me a PM if you need to know anything else.
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