Unusual job on the bench today
Discussion
When you are looking for a princess cut diamond, there are a very wide variety of cut qualities which directly affects the beauty of the diamond.
If for example you look at the website linked to above, and narrow down a particular specification to be as specific as possible, you will find typically a 50% difference in price between the cheapest option and the most expensive for what appears to be the same spec.
The difference in price comes down to the cut quality which is directly linked to the beauty of the diamond, together with the 'off certificate factors' such as the lustre of the diamond, which isn't graded by GIA on the lab report.
You might find this video of interest which shows the optical differences on princess cut diamonds.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOs9ywWanPc
If for example you look at the website linked to above, and narrow down a particular specification to be as specific as possible, you will find typically a 50% difference in price between the cheapest option and the most expensive for what appears to be the same spec.
The difference in price comes down to the cut quality which is directly linked to the beauty of the diamond, together with the 'off certificate factors' such as the lustre of the diamond, which isn't graded by GIA on the lab report.
You might find this video of interest which shows the optical differences on princess cut diamonds.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOs9ywWanPc
mikeveal said:
I know what this is about and would be very interested to find out what can or can't be done... I'm sure V8s4me won't mind me saying, he has a 9ct gold watch back with an inscription that he'd like "disappeared".
Saw photos of the work today and should have the case itself in my hands tomorrow. Obviously, I'll be merciless in my critique of the job which, knowing some of ecain's other work, means I may not be able to give it better than "did he just supply a new back for it???"
Edited by Variomatic on Wednesday 30th September 20:21
Variomatic said:
Got the case back from Eddie today and I thought I was joking with the "supplied a new back" comment but now I'm not so sure! Won't post pics because that's up to the owner if he wants to but, yet again, Mr Cain has excelled :
Thanks mate. Happy to have been of service Edited by Variomatic on Wednesday 30th September 20:19
I'll post up pics in a min.
When the case back arrived the first thing to do was grind out the old engraving to reveal nice clean metal to solder on to. If we did not do this the solder would be contaminated by whatever dirt or other stuff had become embedded in the engraving:
The case back is then painted with a flux that lowers the melting temperature of the solder and also cleans the metal surface. In this case i used a flux called 'tenacity' which is normally only used for special items. The flux is heated to burn out any contaminants in the metal and to prepare it for the solder.
The solder is applied to the flux in small pieces so we don't flood or damage the original metal. Once all the areas of engraving are filled the case back is boiled in acid to remove the flux and any further contamination. This is the solder applied and cleaned:
The solder stands proud of the original metal so we now have to file it down and buff it to the same level as the case back. As the case back is thin from the start we have to be careful not to take more metal than we need. Buffed down to 400 grade:
A quick polish and a gilding in 22ct gilding salts, the case back is not only smooth and even, but also matches the aged appearance of the case body. We had no issues with warping either
Eddie
The case back is then painted with a flux that lowers the melting temperature of the solder and also cleans the metal surface. In this case i used a flux called 'tenacity' which is normally only used for special items. The flux is heated to burn out any contaminants in the metal and to prepare it for the solder.
The solder is applied to the flux in small pieces so we don't flood or damage the original metal. Once all the areas of engraving are filled the case back is boiled in acid to remove the flux and any further contamination. This is the solder applied and cleaned:
The solder stands proud of the original metal so we now have to file it down and buff it to the same level as the case back. As the case back is thin from the start we have to be careful not to take more metal than we need. Buffed down to 400 grade:
A quick polish and a gilding in 22ct gilding salts, the case back is not only smooth and even, but also matches the aged appearance of the case body. We had no issues with warping either
Eddie
So, silver solder, then gold plate straight over the top?
I'm guessing you need the same carat gold plating to ensure even wear.
Looks really nice by the way, top job.
Now I know what can be done, I might stop avoiding buying ebay watches with engravings... I don't suppose you could drop me a pm with an approximate cost for getting something like this done? Engraved watches go for a song compared to non-engraved ones.
Yeah, that's just what I need, excuses not to buy watches removed.
I'm guessing you need the same carat gold plating to ensure even wear.
Looks really nice by the way, top job.
Now I know what can be done, I might stop avoiding buying ebay watches with engravings... I don't suppose you could drop me a pm with an approximate cost for getting something like this done? Engraved watches go for a song compared to non-engraved ones.
Yeah, that's just what I need, excuses not to buy watches removed.
NeMiSiS said:
More magic from Eddie.
Have you noticed how Eddie spreads his knowledge freely, so many people like to keep their 'secrets' to themselves for prosperity....not Eddie.
Now then, I've got this Rolex with a 5 digit engraved number, I would like to change it, to my name maybe, like a private plate, or something, what da ya say ?
I would do it myself but I don't want to get my fingers burnt, so to speak.
Keep up the Magic.
Happy to do it for you so long as it doesn't affect your Rolex warranty (if that bothers you). You'd need to arrange the engraving yourself though as I don't venture into that side of things. Have you noticed how Eddie spreads his knowledge freely, so many people like to keep their 'secrets' to themselves for prosperity....not Eddie.
Now then, I've got this Rolex with a 5 digit engraved number, I would like to change it, to my name maybe, like a private plate, or something, what da ya say ?
I would do it myself but I don't want to get my fingers burnt, so to speak.
Keep up the Magic.
Thanks for the kind words,
Eddie
NeMiSiS said:
ecain63 said:
Happy to do it for you so long as it doesn't affect your Rolex warranty (if that bothers you). You'd need to arrange the engraving yourself though as I don't venture into that side of things.
Thanks for the kind words,
Eddie
Sorry Eddie, I should have made the WINK smiley a bit bigger , I am joking about removing serial numbers from an imaginary Rolex, my humour rarely translates through text.Thanks for the kind words,
Eddie
Eddie
Evening all!
Well, I survived! So here is another 'interesting job'.
I was given the task of making a PH-ers wedding ring today. Usually blokes exhaust the wedding morale deciding what the missus wants but for a change we have somebody who wants something different to the usual "I'll just get something plain and cheap" approach. To add a twist of sentiment the customer had his mum send some of her own rings to be used in the ring. Spec: 5mm wide flat-court shape, in 9ct with a platinum centre section, size P.
As mentioned above, the customers mums 9ct gold rings:
Which are then lovingly torched!
Until well cooked:
And melted:
With the melted / mixed metals it was time to make some 5mm wide D-shaped wire:
Now we have the required profil we need to stamp the metal to show what the carat is and any other metals used:
375 is 9ct and plat is........
The metal is then cleaned and turned to make a rough ring shape, which is then soldered. We did have a couple of complications with this one as the metal mix had a very low melting temperature. As 9ct gold is only 37.5% gold we never fully know what the other 62.6% consists of. It could be anything, including brass, copper, tin, aluminium, platinum, silver etc. In other countries you may even get nickel mixed in. Different metal mixes will have different hardnesses and different melting points. Luckily we got away with it today.
Rough band made it is tidied up ready for phase 2:
Phase 2 involves the painstaking job of filing out the centre section to accept the platinum band.
First we cut the borders with a fine saw:
And then using a multitude of files and grinding tools the centre is remove:
An hour or so of graft later and the centre is ready. That grey metal you see above is platinum, ready to be rolled down:
And now it's rolled down:
The trick to getting the platinum band to fit nicely on the main band goes like this:
Main band made to the correct size (P)
Centre section filed out / profiled
Main band compressed down 3 sizes
Make platinum band just big enough to squeeze over the outside of main band
Place platinum band on main band and stretch main band back to correct size (P)
If done correctly the platinum band will be a tight fit in the centre section of main band.
So...... Main band squeezed down and plat band just big enough to go over it:
Plat band over main band and on stretching machine:
And stretched up:
We then remove excess metal and clean it up:
Give it a good polish and it's all done. Happy days!
Eddie
Well, I survived! So here is another 'interesting job'.
I was given the task of making a PH-ers wedding ring today. Usually blokes exhaust the wedding morale deciding what the missus wants but for a change we have somebody who wants something different to the usual "I'll just get something plain and cheap" approach. To add a twist of sentiment the customer had his mum send some of her own rings to be used in the ring. Spec: 5mm wide flat-court shape, in 9ct with a platinum centre section, size P.
As mentioned above, the customers mums 9ct gold rings:
Which are then lovingly torched!
Until well cooked:
And melted:
With the melted / mixed metals it was time to make some 5mm wide D-shaped wire:
Now we have the required profil we need to stamp the metal to show what the carat is and any other metals used:
375 is 9ct and plat is........
The metal is then cleaned and turned to make a rough ring shape, which is then soldered. We did have a couple of complications with this one as the metal mix had a very low melting temperature. As 9ct gold is only 37.5% gold we never fully know what the other 62.6% consists of. It could be anything, including brass, copper, tin, aluminium, platinum, silver etc. In other countries you may even get nickel mixed in. Different metal mixes will have different hardnesses and different melting points. Luckily we got away with it today.
Rough band made it is tidied up ready for phase 2:
Phase 2 involves the painstaking job of filing out the centre section to accept the platinum band.
First we cut the borders with a fine saw:
And then using a multitude of files and grinding tools the centre is remove:
An hour or so of graft later and the centre is ready. That grey metal you see above is platinum, ready to be rolled down:
And now it's rolled down:
The trick to getting the platinum band to fit nicely on the main band goes like this:
Main band made to the correct size (P)
Centre section filed out / profiled
Main band compressed down 3 sizes
Make platinum band just big enough to squeeze over the outside of main band
Place platinum band on main band and stretch main band back to correct size (P)
If done correctly the platinum band will be a tight fit in the centre section of main band.
So...... Main band squeezed down and plat band just big enough to go over it:
Plat band over main band and on stretching machine:
And stretched up:
We then remove excess metal and clean it up:
Give it a good polish and it's all done. Happy days!
Eddie
Ahh okay.
Resetting some stones as a wedding/ engagement/ all in one ring for the girlfriend soon from some family heirloom rings. They'll provide the diamonds but the setting is wanted in platium or similar over the current gold.
Best source of inspiration gained from browsing current ring designs?
If I was on the South East still, I'd drop in. Alas opportunity missed.
Resetting some stones as a wedding/ engagement/ all in one ring for the girlfriend soon from some family heirloom rings. They'll provide the diamonds but the setting is wanted in platium or similar over the current gold.
Best source of inspiration gained from browsing current ring designs?
If I was on the South East still, I'd drop in. Alas opportunity missed.
Gassing Station | Watches | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff