Unusual job on the bench today
Discussion
What an absolute cracker of a thread. just read the entire thing and this is definitely a hidden gem (pardon the pun) on PH. Loved the entire read and seeing what sorts of craftsmanship goes into creating such fine jewellery. Also glad to hear you f
ked up cancer and even had a son in the meanwhile! Do keep it up and should I or anyone I know need anything I will be sure to point them your way.
ked up cancer and even had a son in the meanwhile! Do keep it up and should I or anyone I know need anything I will be sure to point them your way.
JakeT said:
What an absolute cracker of a thread. just read the entire thing and this is definitely a hidden gem (pardon the pun) on PH. Loved the entire read and seeing what sorts of craftsmanship goes into creating such fine jewellery. Also glad to hear you fked up cancer and even had a son in the meanwhile! Do keep it up and should I or anyone I know need anything I will be sure to point them your way.
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed it. Keep your eyes peeled for further updates ked up cancer and even had a son in the meanwhile! Do keep it up and should I or anyone I know need anything I will be sure to point them your way.
Gingerbread Man said:
ecain63 said:
Ilovejapcrap said:
I'd love this as a job how do you get into it?
My father-in-law lured me out of the Marines in 2008. Since then i've been trapped in the workshop! I've also had a couple of 'fully trained (???)' guys try out at the shop but nobody has met the grade or been honest about their ability.
I now employ a 60yr old jobbing jeweller who has been on and off the bench for over 40 years. I'm still on the look out for another bloke who can do the higher end work such as claws and stone setting.
After making something similar for a PHer the wife decided that she wanted something new for Xmas.
Original job in silver and 9ct yellow gold with silver chain:
We made one satin finish (silver) and the other shiney:
Wife tried it on and.......
well her xmas is sorted. She made it clear straight away that she wanted platinum and 18ct rose gold with an 18ct white gold chain: Easy life being a jewellers wife!!
Also made this last week for a very fussy customer. Originally wanted it claw set but changed his mind after he let his future wife have a direct hand on things. Doh!!
Claws:
No claws!
Eddie
Original job in silver and 9ct yellow gold with silver chain:
We made one satin finish (silver) and the other shiney:
Wife tried it on and.......
well her xmas is sorted. She made it clear straight away that she wanted platinum and 18ct rose gold with an 18ct white gold chain: Easy life being a jewellers wife!!
Also made this last week for a very fussy customer. Originally wanted it claw set but changed his mind after he let his future wife have a direct hand on things. Doh!!
Claws:
No claws!
Eddie
Regardless of cost, is there any advantage of silver to platinum to white gold? As previously mentioned, we're going to reset some stones from a family ring which is currently 15 carat (?) gold. The girlfriend prefers a silver (in colour) finish over gold, but it has been suggested that the current gold could be used as part of the make up of a new white gold band to it.
She's also thinking of a 5 stone asymmetric design, not sure what it's going to turn out like!
She's also thinking of a 5 stone asymmetric design, not sure what it's going to turn out like!
Gingerbread Man said:
Regardless of cost, is there any advantage of silver to platinum to white gold? As previously mentioned, we're going to reset some stones from a family ring which is currently 15 carat (?) gold. The girlfriend prefers a silver (in colour) finish over gold, but it has been suggested that the current gold could be used as part of the make up of a new white gold band to it.
She's also thinking of a 5 stone asymmetric design, not sure what it's going to turn out like!
Basically, silver for reduced cost. Disadvantage is it tarnishes easily and weighs little so difficult to balance against other metals. White gold is easy to use and can be had in 9ct, 14ct, 15ct and 18ct depending on the country of purchase. In the UK we only sell 9 or 18ct white. 9ct can be really poor quality as it's a cheap high street metal. It's mixed with all sorts inc aluminium, tin, silver and the like. In the US they also mix with nickel which is banned here. 9ct is generally a bit soft and breaks up easily with use. 14 and 15ct are a lottery as to what is in it. They generally come from anywhere other than the UK. It's normally a decent metal though so don't fear. 18ct is a good metal to work with and in the UK we usually mix with platinum or silver to get to 18ct from the 24 proof. As a result it's hard wearing and easy to form. The biggest downside to white gold is the need for Rhodium plating when the metal gets worn. This is an accumulative cost over years and every time the metal is polished and replated you lose a percentage of the item to the polishing machine. I'd always suggest platinum as the metal to go for. These days its not hugely different in value to 18ct white gold and is a damn sight better to work with (although hard to polish) and own. No rhodium costs unless you have visible joints and it last longer than the gold equivalent. She's also thinking of a 5 stone asymmetric design, not sure what it's going to turn out like!
ecain63 said:
Gingerbread Man said:
Regardless of cost, is there any advantage of silver to platinum to white gold? As previously mentioned, we're going to reset some stones from a family ring which is currently 15 carat (?) gold. The girlfriend prefers a silver (in colour) finish over gold, but it has been suggested that the current gold could be used as part of the make up of a new white gold band to it.
She's also thinking of a 5 stone asymmetric design, not sure what it's going to turn out like!
Basically, silver for reduced cost. Disadvantage is it tarnishes easily and weighs little so difficult to balance against other metals. White gold is easy to use and can be had in 9ct, 14ct, 15ct and 18ct depending on the country of purchase. In the UK we only sell 9 or 18ct white. 9ct can be really poor quality as it's a cheap high street metal. It's mixed with all sorts inc aluminium, tin, silver and the like. In the US they also mix with nickel which is banned here. 9ct is generally a bit soft and breaks up easily with use. 14 and 15ct are a lottery as to what is in it. They generally come from anywhere other than the UK. It's normally a decent metal though so don't fear. 18ct is a good metal to work with and in the UK we usually mix with platinum or silver to get to 18ct from the 24 proof. As a result it's hard wearing and easy to form. The biggest downside to white gold is the need for Rhodium plating when the metal gets worn. This is an accumulative cost over years and every time the metal is polished and replated you lose a percentage of the item to the polishing machine. I'd always suggest platinum as the metal to go for. These days its not hugely different in value to 18ct white gold and is a damn sight better to work with (although hard to polish) and own. No rhodium costs unless you have visible joints and it last longer than the gold equivalent. She's also thinking of a 5 stone asymmetric design, not sure what it's going to turn out like!
The Christmas rush is upon me and today I had a fairly large job on the go for a customer picking up next week. Job is a full restoration of a ring she's had for about 50 years. Unfortunately with all the pressure of Christmas I only took the pics that show major progress rather than the usual 'every detail'. You've seen the basics in other projects so you should be able to fill in the gaps without too much imagination. Enjoy, Eddie
The ring is an asccher cut centre with baguette cut shoulders, set in platinum. First job is making the setting:
Accidentally put my trusty pen knife through the rolling mill whilst trying to fish out a piece of platinum. Doh! I have put my fingers through the mills a couple of times in the past with similar results:
Building the undersetting:
Setting built I made a shank:
Which I soldered to the setting and files into a rough profile:
Bit of a clean up before stone setting:
Shoulder stones in and secure. Ready for boxing in:
Shoulder stones boxed in and centre stone placed into the setting:
Centre stone secured. Ready for polishing:
Polishing done and the ring gets a rhodium plating to hide any joints:
All done:
Eddie
The ring is an asccher cut centre with baguette cut shoulders, set in platinum. First job is making the setting:
Accidentally put my trusty pen knife through the rolling mill whilst trying to fish out a piece of platinum. Doh! I have put my fingers through the mills a couple of times in the past with similar results:
Building the undersetting:
Setting built I made a shank:
Which I soldered to the setting and files into a rough profile:
Bit of a clean up before stone setting:
Shoulder stones in and secure. Ready for boxing in:
Shoulder stones boxed in and centre stone placed into the setting:
Centre stone secured. Ready for polishing:
Polishing done and the ring gets a rhodium plating to hide any joints:
All done:
Eddie
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