Unusual job on the bench today

Unusual job on the bench today

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ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

174 months

Tuesday 17th May 2016
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Chessers said:
Hi Eddie,

I'm looking at getting an old ring re-sized for my Mum, nothing special to look at but very sentimental. Can I ping you a note with a pic as it has a pattern running around it, so not sure if it could be done.

Cheers
Yeah, for sure. Send me a maily and I'll get back asap

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

174 months

Friday 20th May 2016
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Because I know how much you like your jewellery in here I thought I'd give you a really well timed update.

A. I made the silver one to finish the set:



B. I made a shaped wedding band which was then set with diamonds:

The engagement ring is a platinum twist with a single diamond. The wedding ring has to be made to fit because of the obvious shape of the engagement ring. A bit of bending, cutting and soldering and we have a wedding ring:



With that done the next job is to set the diamonds as specified by the customer:

1 x wedding band


4 x diamond locations marked out. It doesn't look even in this pic because of the light. They were measured, honest! lol



The holes for the diamond settings are drilled through the ring and the edges marked with a fine saw blade:



The holes are then bored out to the correct depth with a slightly wider bore drill. The holes are the same dimensions as the diamonds:



Some diamonds:





The stones are placed into the holes / settings for a test fit:



The stones are secured with a grainer and that's them set! Next stop is polishing:



All polished and ready for the big day:







Eddie

Troubleatmill

10,210 posts

158 months

Friday 20th May 2016
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Lovely stuff....

longshot

3,286 posts

197 months

Friday 20th May 2016
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Very nice.
I seem to remember you making a set of rings that fitted into each other before.
Is this a different customer?

What's a grainer?

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

174 months

Saturday 21st May 2016
quotequote all
longshot said:
Very nice.
I seem to remember you making a set of rings that fitted into each other before.
Is this a different customer?

What's a grainer?
Yeah, I think the original project on this thread was a yellow gold, emerald and fire opal band. Well remembered.

A grainer is a tool for pressing burs of metal into a shape resembling a claw. Basically, you leave an amount of raised metal at points around the stone and use the grainer to compact and shape then. These then serve to hold the stones in place.

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

174 months

Saturday 21st May 2016
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NeMiSiS said:


They look like watch batteries to me, so you are at least posting in the right forum. wink
Haha wink

Major Fallout

5,278 posts

230 months

Monday 23rd May 2016
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Hi can I ask a question please.

We have a jeweller that has done a lot of things for us in the past, and I'm trying to get him to give me a quote on a wedding ring for me. But he is being a bit slow, he keeps avoiding the idea and sends me photos of catalog rings.

Is this difficult?

I want a 9-18ct white gold ring with a channel cut all the way around the circumference, and one diamond (probably princess) tension set in the channel. So that if you look down the channel you can see the underside of the stone as well.

Something like this.


My other idea was something like this but it worked out to be too expensive.


rhinochopig

17,932 posts

197 months

Monday 23rd May 2016
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Major Fallout said:
Hi can I ask a question please.

For that one have a look at SKF's catalogue. You can even order one with a full set of seals. wink

Major Fallout

5,278 posts

230 months

Monday 23rd May 2016
quotequote all
rhinochopig said:
For that one have a look at SKF's catalogue. You can even order one with a full set of seals. wink
I think thats why I like it.

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

174 months

Monday 23rd May 2016
quotequote all
The second one is a particularly difficult item to produce. Getting those stones to stay put whilst setting them individually is a feat in itself. For you, I'd avoid it on the grounds that it will become a maintenance nightmare in years (possibly months) to come.

The first one is not too bad, but keeping the stone secure for the duration of you wearing it is the problem we face. Too much setting and the ring becomes a bit heavy looking. Too little and the ring will easily flex, causing the stone to come loose. I can price it up if you email me with diamond spec.

Eddie

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

174 months

Friday 10th June 2016
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Evening all!

Well, my slightly 'off the wall' MMA / cage fighter has returned with news that his marriage is back on the cards. He was astounded by the previous Cinderella carriage ring but felt a slightly lower key ring was more suited to a long term wear. Queue the revision.......

His missus had picked up this bit of Disneyland bling from the themepark earlier this year. I assume when they were planning the big day. The new idea was to make a slightly more robust, white, and dare i say it, classy version for the wedding.



First stage is to get some 18ct white gold.



This is heated and rolled to get the required profile for a bit of wire building.





With the correct wire profile for the initial shape we did some bending and soldering:



Rolled the remaining wire a little more to create a layered effect once complete:



Bent some more:



Soldered some more:



The carriage needs wheels. Here is some 3.3mm 18ct white gold tube cut to the required depth:



And we are rolling!



Some more details added:



Some rough hubs:



Main bulk of the shape complete:



The original carriage had a crown, so to compensate I added an 18ct yellow gold nipple on top:



I gave this a light clean:



With the basics done I have to address the fact that it needs to be a ring. A ring needs a shank!

More rolling of gold:



And a band is born. Size M. Note the band has a flat section.



The carriage is soldered to the flat section of the ring and hey presto!





Spot the difference:

The same 3.3mm tube is inserted into the centre of the carriage and cut to a height of 3mm. This will be the setting for a 3mm diamond!



Diamond set:



And cleaned up ready for polishing:



After polishing the ring is cleaned in the ultrasonic, the yellow bit masked and the ring rhodium plated. This is the cleaner:



This is the rhodium:




4 hours start to finish, all done:





This Neapolitan Mastiff is something I made him a while back. Before the Wutang ring, Yankee Candle Ring, Leopard Ring, etc...............

Eddie







Edited by ecain63 on Friday 10th June 21:25

dc2rr07

1,238 posts

230 months

Friday 10th June 2016
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Don't let Uncle Walt see it as he will want some royaltys smile

Troubleatmill

10,210 posts

158 months

Saturday 11th June 2016
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You are a very talented guy Eddie.

That is impressive ( although not to my taste )

The customer must have loved it.

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

174 months

Saturday 11th June 2016
quotequote all
Troubleatmill said:
You are a very talented guy Eddie.

That is impressive ( although not to my taste )

The customer must have loved it.
Thanks buddy. Not to my taste either but the customer is king...... and doubly hard as nails.

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

174 months

Monday 13th June 2016
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Had this beauty in today for a refurb. An utter beast of a watch. Makes my Pelagos look small.

My only criticism of the Rolex is the date hole in the face. Instead of a cleanly cut rectangle, the hole is effectively a sunken / moulded rectangle. Unusual!













Blown2CV

28,697 posts

202 months

Monday 13th June 2016
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i have a black face deepsea, and yes they are a bit of a monster! Struggling to see where that one needs refurbing though... scratches to bracelet but that's about it?

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

174 months

Monday 13th June 2016
quotequote all
Blown2CV said:
i have a black face deepsea, and yes they are a bit of a monster! Struggling to see where that one needs refurbing though... scratches to bracelet but that's about it?
That's literally all it was. A few scratches in the satin finish, a little on the sides and a small dent in the corner of the case beside the strap lugs. He has also scratched the glass (that'd do my head in) but I can't fix that.

Edd

Blown2CV

28,697 posts

202 months

Monday 13th June 2016
quotequote all
ecain63 said:
Blown2CV said:
i have a black face deepsea, and yes they are a bit of a monster! Struggling to see where that one needs refurbing though... scratches to bracelet but that's about it?
That's literally all it was. A few scratches in the satin finish, a little on the sides and a small dent in the corner of the case beside the strap lugs. He has also scratched the glass (that'd do my head in) but I can't fix that.

Edd
well it's good to know that the scratches to the satin can be sorted. It's pretty hard to scratch that crystal it's 4mm sapphire glass, must have really whacked it on something.

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

174 months

Tuesday 14th June 2016
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Better pic of the scratch. My ocd wouldn't handle that.





ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

174 months

Tuesday 21st June 2016
quotequote all
Ok, last job before I take a holiday. My first proper family holiday since I got diagnosed in 2013! Woohoo! Portugal here I come!

This job is a family heirloom, so it's something a bit more special for me. My mum was given it recently by my elderly nan. She's not too well so she has dished out the sparkles early on.

Take one fairly worn out diamond cluster / half eternity:



And some 18ct yellow gold to make a new shank:





Cut it to length:



Tack on one side:



Then hard solder the other:



A bit of rough profiling before we get onto the head work:



The claws are pretty shot on top so I filed them off ready to have new ones soldered on:



Borax is applied and heated as per normal to protect the stones:



Here is the 18ct white gold claw material ready for cutting:



Some claws cut:



And the soldering begins:



Half of the claws soldered:



And the rest:



I did something quite special here...... a new bloody file! This is a rare thing and a new file is something to be enjoyed. I'm sure there are others on this forum who feel the same about new tools:



I gave the ring a good boil in the pickle ready for the reprofiling of the claws:





Sides under way:



And more:



And then into the tops:





Cleaned up and ready for polishing:



Polishing wheel in action:



All polished and about to be cleaned ready for plating:



Cleaned:



Masked up for plating:



Plating:



And all done:







See you in 10 days smile