Unusual job on the bench today

Unusual job on the bench today

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Discussion

Dibble

12,937 posts

240 months

Wednesday 22nd June 2016
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Enjoy your holiday Eddie and some time with your family.

Still one of my favourite threads on PH.

NoNeed

15,137 posts

200 months

Wednesday 22nd June 2016
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What a cool thread, how have I not noticed this before? and now I have found it he's going on holidaybiggrin have a good time.

TheAllSeeingPie

865 posts

135 months

Wednesday 22nd June 2016
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It always amazes me how messy some of the process is and then suddenly you seem to have an amazing result. I know if I attempted anything like this it look like the borax version irregardless of training!

Chessers

745 posts

212 months

Tuesday 28th June 2016
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a real artist and pleasing to see. Impressive work as always.

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

175 months

Tuesday 19th July 2016
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Evening!

Portugal was great. I had a really bad food poisoning half way through, which my already weakened bowels are still struggling with 3 weeks on. Winner!

As for work..... it's manic after the holiday still. I have a job to put up here that I did for a PHer. Unfortunately my camera has gone into lockdown so as soon as it's back from the shop I'll get it posted up.

Other jobs on the go are:

1: trench watch that was used at the Somme. Full movement rebuild thanks to Vario and a new (off ebay) case with original service engraving from old case salvaged and transplanted into the new metalwork.





You can just make out the soldiers name and address in this pic. F.W Hook from Cardiff



2. Supplying a selection if fine sapphires for a PHer, which we then used in an engagement ring:














Plus loads more.

I'll put a proper thread up when everything calms down a bit and when / if the camera recovers from its holiday abuse.

Eddie


ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

175 months

Tuesday 19th July 2016
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Also, if anyone has been messaging and not had a reply then it may be because my email service has changed the way it scans for spam. I had a couple of folks message me about watches and rings over and before the holiday and i've had no replies since last week or so. Could be you've found another supplier or my email is playing up. Try me again now i've adjusted the settings,

Eddie

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

175 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
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Ok, you asked for it!!! lol

We got the shop camera back today. Unfortunately it appears the salt spray from my day photographing punters on a cave kayaking trip has upset the memory internals. We are looking to salvage what we can of any images I captured the week I got off hols. Hopefully all will be well there. With that going on I broke out the trusty phone camera and took a bunch of snaps showing the full rebuild of platinum and diamond 3 stone ring. Hope you likey the looky of it:

So, one rather worn out (mainly shank) ring. The shank is thin and split. She's also managed to crimp one shoulder. The claws, although not terrible could also do with an overhaul:



Off with the old:



And prepare the new. A nice new bit of platinum:



I roll it down to the right dimensions and profile (approx 1.55 deep by 2.5 wide, D shape):



Stamp it:



Turn it and cut to the correct length. We are looking for a size L:



Because of the proximity to the stones I'm reluctant to use hard / high temp solder. Instead I opt for a medium grade for the joint. I could remove the stones but because I know very little about any previous work i opt to leave them in place and protect them with the usual Borax.



Little bit of heat to each shoulder:



And it's on:





Bingo!



The shank is then given a little light profiling which also allows me to check the quality of the joint. It's pretty good!





With the shank on it's time to get into the guts of it. The old claws are filed off. At this point, not that you can see it here, the ring begins to show signs of serious previous repair, and with extra easy solder too. This is a problem as my plan to use an easy to medium grade solder will be flawed unless I remove the previous muck. Yay!!!



With the old crappy solder and claws removed I go about soldering new platinum claws / plates in place using a solder that is slightly lower grade than the medium I used on the shank. This is to keep the heat down around the stones and hopefully also keeping any old joints in place:









Once both sides are soldered the claws / plates are pressed over the stones to secure them. I can then file away any remaining claws and then solder new ones in place. Like so......



With all the metalwork in the right places I can start to work on shaping the claws:





Lots of filing and stressing later and the claws begin to take shape:














One side done:



And the other:







Give it a tidy up with the emery and then it's ready for polishing:







Once polished it's then plated and it's good to be worn:



http://s251.photobucket.com/user/niacuk/media/Watc...

http://vid251.photobucket.com/albums/gg306/niacuk/...




AyBee

10,533 posts

202 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
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Eddie, if I may, how do you file and shape the claws without damaging the stone? Is it just skill?

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

175 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
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AyBee said:
Eddie, if I may, how do you file and shape the claws without damaging the stone? Is it just skill?
Experience! And by using files that have been blunted along the edges (i grind them off), that way only a smooth surface touches the stone. Like anything though there is always a risk, but repetition and lessons learned in mistakes soon give you the skills to avoid damage. Modern stones are also easier to work with as they have thicker girdles than the old fashioned knife edged stones. Some of those old rocks are very fine and chip with only light pressure. Perks of the job unfortunately which is why I have to be on the ball 100% of the time.



Fas1975

1,778 posts

164 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
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I know people keep on saying this, but it's just such a joy watching a master craftsman at work. Really hope to commission something from you one day, until then, cap continues to be doffed every time I see an update from you.

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

175 months

Saturday 30th July 2016
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Got this uber rare SBS issue Seamsters GMT in for service and bezel insert while the owner is away. There's a new SBS Planet Ocean arriving in October and I hope to get my mitts on this too.

Eddie




AndrewEH1

4,917 posts

153 months

Saturday 30th July 2016
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I hope you're going to turn the back cover around the right way, that would do my head in!

longshot

3,286 posts

198 months

Saturday 30th July 2016
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A previous customer I see.

Really looking forward to seeing a watch serviced.

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

175 months

Saturday 30th July 2016
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AndrewEH1 said:
I hope you're going to turn the back cover around the right way, that would do my head in!
That's the way they come from the factory I'm afraid. No chance I'm changing that. smile

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

175 months

Saturday 30th July 2016
quotequote all
longshot said:
A previous customer I see.

Really looking forward to seeing a watch serviced.
Different guy actually. The other was the earlier Seamaster Professional quartz. Same badge.

I've done SF Sigs versions of this watch and also an SRR engraved Submariner. The Sub is not official issue however so carries no real weight.

The servicing will be done by variomatic. I've asked him not to show pics due to serial numbers etc. He's also doing my 16600 Sea Dweller at the same time so maybe he'll pictorialise (is that a word? Lol) that for you all.

Eddie

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

175 months

Saturday 30th July 2016
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ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

175 months

Saturday 30th July 2016
quotequote all
My own Bremont:




AndrewEH1

4,917 posts

153 months

Saturday 30th July 2016
quotequote all
ecain63 said:
That's the way they come from the factory I'm afraid. No chance I'm changing that. smile
Well I guess all the insignia are all pointing the same direction, but I'd of thought a more North/South direction would look better!

longshot

3,286 posts

198 months

Saturday 30th July 2016
quotequote all
ecain63 said:
Different guy actually. The other was the earlier Seamaster Professional quartz. Same badge.

I've done SF Sigs versions of this watch and also an SRR engraved Submariner. The Sub is not official issue however so carries no real weight.

The servicing will be done by variomatic. I've asked him not to show pics due to serial numbers etc. He's also doing my 16600 Sea Dweller at the same time so maybe he'll pictorialise (is that a word? Lol) that for you all.

Eddie
If it isn't it should be. smile

I thought perhaps it was the same person you made the kilt pin for.

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

175 months

Saturday 30th July 2016
quotequote all
longshot said:
ecain63 said:
Different guy actually. The other was the earlier Seamaster Professional quartz. Same badge.

I've done SF Sigs versions of this watch and also an SRR engraved Submariner. The Sub is not official issue however so carries no real weight.

The servicing will be done by variomatic. I've asked him not to show pics due to serial numbers etc. He's also doing my 16600 Sea Dweller at the same time so maybe he'll pictorialise (is that a word? Lol) that for you all.

Eddie
If it isn't it should be. smile

I thought perhaps it was the same person you made the kilt pin for.
No, different guy altogether that one. Not seen his watch yet as he's not been in the squadron long enough to require a service.