A classic watch

Author
Discussion

Foliage

Original Poster:

3,861 posts

122 months

Tuesday 29th September 2015
quotequote all
Im trying to decide on a new watch, im after something with that classic 50s/60s feel like a Rolex Oyster?, something simple with a steel bracelet,

I was also looking at the Tudor 'style', but once I got it on my wrist I wasn't feeling it.

Budget is upto £2k


Anyone got any suggestions? prefer something swiss but german/british/dutch or other European stuff of course welcome.

Jollyclub

1,905 posts

246 months

Tuesday 29th September 2015
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Tudor Submariner Snowflake.

mikeveal

4,571 posts

250 months

lostkiwi

4,584 posts

124 months

Tuesday 29th September 2015
quotequote all
Omega Speedmaster - classic and iconic moonwatch style.

Also Panerai Radiomir range perhaps? Though Pams are usually best on a leather strap.
Most 50s/60s watches are best on leather thinking about it.....

mikeveal

4,571 posts

250 months

Tuesday 29th September 2015
quotequote all
I wouldn't call the speedy simple. Too many dials (complications). But then I suggested a roadster, which isn't the right age.
I agree most simple watches from the 60's and 70's were originally sold on leather and look better on leather.

The lobster was 1970, so right on the cusp
http://www.chrono24.co.uk/omega/speedmaster-f300-l...
http://www.chrono24.co.uk/omega/speedsonic-lobster...

A first generation Dynamic is a '67 to '72(IIRC) watch and its a long way under budget.
http://www.chrono24.co.uk/omega/vintage-automatic-...
The blue/silver/blue bullseye is stunning if you can find an original dial, but there aren't any metal bracelet watches with original dials for sale on C24 at the moment.

If Chronos are in, how about a vintage Top Time on a sharkmesh bracelet? Best image I could quickly find and the bracelet is undersize, but you get the idea.

Foliage

Original Poster:

3,861 posts

122 months

Tuesday 29th September 2015
quotequote all
Some nice watches there smile

Any more for any more? I might have a look myself at older omega's.

Hoofy

76,358 posts

282 months

Tuesday 29th September 2015
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Classic Omega Seamaster?



Would have to buy used, though.

Or Rolex Oyster Precision?

nikaiyo2

4,728 posts

195 months

Tuesday 29th September 2015
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Err if you are looking for a classic styled Rolex, why not get a classic Rolex? You should easily pick up an AirKing or Precision within budget...

To me a classic dress watch should be on a crock strap, an IWC with 422 in solid 18ct gold case and should get plenty of change from £2k smile

mikeveal

4,571 posts

250 months

Wednesday 30th September 2015
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nikaiyo2 said:
Err if you are looking for a classic styled Rolex, why not get a classic Rolex? You should easily pick up an AirKing or Precision within budget...

To me a classic dress watch should be on a crock strap, an IWC with 422 in solid 18ct gold case and should get plenty of change from £2k smile
I agree.
At 2K, simple, 50's/60s with a bracelet there's not a lot of choice other than the Rollys.
There's quite a bit of stuff in the £500 region, like the Dynamic I linked. But there's little from this era with a bracelet, that's simple at 2K.

The Rolex Datejust is a 1945 design so strictly it doesn't meet the brief. The Submariner hails from 1953, so that one is in, will 2K buy a Sub though?

The Santos I suggested is actually a 1906 design, created for the Brazilian born aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont so that he could check the time whilst flying. It was the worlds first pilots watch & is certainly not a 50s or 60s design.

Similarly the Reverso is a 1931 design, allegedly designed so that you could flip the watch over to protect the glass whilst playing polo. I don't know when they made it available on a bracelet, suspect relatively recently. Personally I don't like the bracelet, I think it looks far better on a leather.

The Grand Seikos hail from the 60's, although I think the early stuff was sold on a leather band, not a bracelet. Not sure what a 60's GS will set you back. Here's one in fairly poor nick at a rather optimistic comedy price.

Drop the bracelet and go for a leather strap and the choice is much wider.

Foliage

Original Poster:

3,861 posts

122 months

Wednesday 30th September 2015
quotequote all
Maybe what im after is something more 70s

Something akin to http://www.chrono24.co.uk/iwc/schaffhausen-automat...

I was really after something new, but how is the purchasing from chrono24 is it reliable?

mikeveal

4,571 posts

250 months

Wednesday 30th September 2015
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El Capitano

1,154 posts

193 months

Wednesday 30th September 2015
quotequote all
Going by the IWC you posted, the AirKing has a similar style and you can pick them up at around £2k.

This is slightly over budget but looks nice http://www.watchfinder.co.uk/Rolex/Air-King/14000M...

Similar in look to the Explorer 1 that I recently bought. A nice classic design.

lostkiwi

4,584 posts

124 months

Wednesday 30th September 2015
quotequote all
How about something from the Longines Heritage collection if you want something new but '70s looking?
http://www.longines.com/#!/watches/heritage-collec...
I particularly like this one:
http://www.longines.com/#!/watches/heritage-collec...

Or the Evidenza collection (I have the chrono on the brown strap and its lovely):
http://www.longines.com/#!/watches/evidenza

Or the Conquest Classic collection:
http://www.longines.com/#!/watches/conquest-classi...

Personally I wouldn't say the Speedmaster in Moonwatch form has too many dials as they are quite subtly integrated into the face.

nikaiyo2

4,728 posts

195 months

Wednesday 30th September 2015
quotequote all
mikeveal said:
I agree.
At 2K, simple, 50's/60s with a bracelet there's not a lot of choice other than the Rollys.
There's quite a bit of stuff in the £500 region, like the Dynamic I linked. But there's little from this era with a bracelet, that's simple at 2K.

The Rolex Datejust is a 1945 design so strictly it doesn't meet the brief. The Submariner hails from 1953, so that one is in, will 2K buy a Sub though?

The Santos I suggested is actually a 1906 design, created for the Brazilian born aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont so that he could check the time whilst flying. It was the worlds first pilots watch & is certainly not a 50s or 60s design.

Similarly the Reverso is a 1931 design, allegedly designed so that you could flip the watch over to protect the glass whilst playing polo. I don't know when they made it available on a bracelet, suspect relatively recently. Personally I don't like the bracelet, I think it looks far better on a leather.

The Grand Seikos hail from the 60's, although I think the early stuff was sold on a leather band, not a bracelet. Not sure what a 60's GS will set you back. Here's one in fairly poor nick at a rather optimistic comedy price.

Drop the bracelet and go for a leather strap and the choice is much wider.
I LOVE that dynamic you have posted, IMHO one of the most underrated watches there is! In fact that one might make me break the rules lol.

OP have you seen this? http://www.vintage-watches-collection.com/watch/iw... I really love that!

Chrono24 is generally ok, but it's a bit like buying off eBay, chances are it will be fine but there is always the chance the seller is a crook!

mikeveal

4,571 posts

250 months

Thursday 1st October 2015
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nikaiyo2 said:
I LOVE that dynamic you have posted, IMHO one of the most underrated watches there is! In fact that one might make me break the rules lol.
Nice aren't they? I have a blue-silver-blue bullseye. Get an original dial and they really shine. The originals have a sunburst dial, the effect is lost when they are repainted. On the first generation dynamic, the case also has the sunburst effect. One of my favourite watches, but it took me a year to find one at ~£350 with a minty original dial and bracelet. It then needed a service, new crystal and stem seal, which brought the price up quite a bit.


nikaiyo2 said:
OP have you seen this? http://www.vintage-watches-collection.com/watch/iw... I really love that!
Is that a redial? I don't know much about IWCs, but it has the classic give-aways...
1/You can see the texture of the spray paint, this is rarely desirable or original.
2/ If its not a redial, the lume has been hand painted, take a look at the 3 o'clock marker. Not pretty.
3/ "SWISS". If that's a 1970 watch(OK, lets be cynical and say "If that's a 1970 dial"), the lume would have been tritium based, so that should say T-Swiss, Swiss -T or similar. It doesn't, so either:
  • IWC decided not to follow the convention of marking the dial to show that it used tritium lume.
  • The watch is pre 1960 and has, or had radium lume.
  • The watch has been re-dialed and the 'wrong' markings applied.
By 'wrong' I mean non original. If the dial was re-done and Luminova was used then "SWISS" without the Ts is the technically correct marking, but is non original, which makes it 'wrong' if you see what I mean.

The seller's quite keen to point out the original case, original movement etc., but he doesn't claim an original dial.

If I were interested in that watch, I'd check the assay mark on the case to see what year the case was hallmarked.



The movement's nice and clean though.





NB, I was looking at the interweb and I found this:
“Swiss”
luminous material Radium
used until 1960
radioactive

“Swiss T - < 25”
luminous material Tritium
used from 1960 until 1998
radioactive, radioactivity less than 925 MBq (25 mCi)

“T Swiss T”
luminous material Tritium
used from 1960 until 1998
radioactive, radioactivity less than 277 MBq (7,5 mCi)

“Swiss”
luminous material luminova
used from 1998 until 2000
not radioactive

“Swiss Made”
luminous material Superluminova
used from 2000
not radioactive

nikaiyo2

4,728 posts

195 months

Thursday 1st October 2015
quotequote all
mikeveal said:
Is that a redial? I don't know much about IWCs, but it has the classic give-aways...
1/You can see the texture of the spray paint, this is rarely desirable or original.
2/ If its not a redial, the lume has been hand painted, take a look at the 3 o'clock marker. Not pretty.
3/ "SWISS". If that's a 1970 watch(OK, lets be cynical and say "If that's a 1970 dial"), the lume would have been tritium based, so that should say T-Swiss, Swiss -T or similar. It doesn't, so either:
  • IWC decided not to follow the convention of marking the dial to show that it used tritium lume.
  • The watch is pre 1960 and has, or had radium lume.
  • The watch has been re-dialed and the 'wrong' markings applied.
By 'wrong' I mean non original. If the dial was re-done and Luminova was used then "SWISS" without the Ts is the technically correct marking, but is non original, which makes it 'wrong' if you see what I mean.

The seller's quite keen to point out the original case, original movement etc., but he doesn't claim an original dial.

If I were interested in that watch, I'd check the assay mark on the case to see what year the case was hallmarked.



The movement's nice and clean though.





NB, I was looking at the interweb and I found this:
“Swiss”
luminous material Radium
used until 1960
radioactive

“Swiss T - < 25”
luminous material Tritium
used from 1960 until 1998
radioactive, radioactivity less than 925 MBq (25 mCi)

“T Swiss T”
luminous material Tritium
used from 1960 until 1998
radioactive, radioactivity less than 277 MBq (7,5 mCi)

“Swiss”
luminous material luminova
used from 1998 until 2000
not radioactive

“Swiss Made”
luminous material Superluminova
used from 2000
not radioactive
Hey, TBH I know very little about IWC, but that dealer is normally reputable so I tend to believe the descriptions. I see what you mean about the dial, nit sure the Swiss lines up with the 6! I just thought it was old fluffy lume, nothing more. I also take your point about the description... Good work that man biggrin

I have a feeling that the dating info shown relates to Rolex dials, it's certainly correct for Subs, not sure it is safe to extrapolate that industry wide, I know 100% that it does not apply to Omega smile


GCH

3,991 posts

202 months

Thursday 1st October 2015
quotequote all
How about 60s style but in a re-issue - Heuer Carrera

CS3111


or

CS3113




I *may* currently be selling one of those models if they appeal...

lostkiwi

4,584 posts

124 months

Thursday 1st October 2015
quotequote all
GCH said:
How about 60s style but in a re-issue - Heuer Carrera

CS3111


or

CS3113




[small]I *may* currently be selling one of those models if they appeal...[/lsmall]
The top one is very similar to a Speedmaster.

mikeveal

4,571 posts

250 months

Friday 2nd October 2015
quotequote all
nikaiyo2 said:
Hey, TBH I know very little about IWC, but that dealer is normally reputable so I tend to believe the descriptions. I see what you mean about the dial, nit sure the Swiss lines up with the 6! I just thought it was old fluffy lume, nothing more. I also take your point about the description... Good work that man biggrin

I have a feeling that the dating info shown relates to Rolex dials, it's certainly correct for Subs, not sure it is safe to extrapolate that industry wide, I know 100% that it does not apply to Omega smile
Yeah, to be clear, I'm not saying that's a redial. I don't know enough about IWCs, I don't own one, I never have, I've never looked at buying one. But there are enough tell tales to make me suspicious. Textured spray paint on the dial is normally a huge clue.

You're right, the dates may not apply strictly to the rest of the industry, but I think the markings do - happy to be proved wrong and learn a little.
No body was still using radium lume in 1970, which is the age that's claimed. The watch has lume, so it's either not 1970, I'm wrong about the T for tritium being industry wide (at least by 1970) or, it's a redial.

Nothing wrong with re-dials of course, its still an attractive watch. But personally I prefer to hunt down watches in original condition.