Might jump on the bnadwagon.....
Discussion
....seeing as though it seems to be on a roll!
Was looking through here earlier today and started looking at the SKX007 - looks a nice watch (not that I am 'into' watches as a rule)
But could someone explain the difference between a SKX007K and a SKX007J?
What's the advantage of having 21 jewels? (Told you I know nothing!
)
I guess for the extra $30, I should be going for the J?
Was looking through here earlier today and started looking at the SKX007 - looks a nice watch (not that I am 'into' watches as a rule)
But could someone explain the difference between a SKX007K and a SKX007J?
What's the advantage of having 21 jewels? (Told you I know nothing!
)I guess for the extra $30, I should be going for the J?
Edited by pincher on Tuesday 24th November 20:12
Both watches are listed as the same calibre, which is the same movement. Therefore, each one has a 21j movement.
The number of Jewels follows closely the complexity and engineering in a watch, but don't fall into the trap of more jewels is always better.
The jewels they refer to are ruby bushes for pivots, as they can be pretty smooth and friction free, and very hard so they won't wear out.
The number of Jewels follows closely the complexity and engineering in a watch, but don't fall into the trap of more jewels is always better.
The jewels they refer to are ruby bushes for pivots, as they can be pretty smooth and friction free, and very hard so they won't wear out.
pincher said:
What is the significance of the 21 jewels? How does that make it a better watch?
I know little of watches but after 10 sec's on googlehttp://www.mens-watches-guide.com/jewel-movement.h...
http://www.swiss-watches-guide.com/21-jewel-moveme...
Personally I would buy them on the stainless steel bracelet and then pick up a rubber separate - cheaper than the other away around, should you fancy a change later on - just a thought.
The watches themseleves are pretty much bombproof and will last you decades if they are cherised - that is not to say, you have to wrap them in cotton wool, but just service them every few years. Good choice and look forward to some pictures whichever one you get - or indeed both as they are brilliant value for money.
The watches themseleves are pretty much bombproof and will last you decades if they are cherised - that is not to say, you have to wrap them in cotton wool, but just service them every few years. Good choice and look forward to some pictures whichever one you get - or indeed both as they are brilliant value for money.
CmdrBond said:
Personally I would buy them on the stainless steel bracelet and then pick up a rubber separate - cheaper than the other away around, should you fancy a change later on - just a thought.
Sound advice.Don't go for the Seiko Z22 ruber strap though. They are s
te. Try one of these instead (no affiliation)http://www.watchworx.co.uk/pages/lwb/diverPop/TSS%...
Edited by andy tims on Wednesday 25th November 13:20
GC8 said:
If the prices are competitive then Id certainly go for a 'J' over a Malaysian 'K' for US$30.
+1 on that. I have 3 Seikos - all Japanese made J models. Quality is top notch. If you are looking at pictures and unsure about model numbers, they tend to say "Made in Japan" between the 6 and 7 o'clock markers.
Definitely. My order of preference for a Japanese SKX007 or 009 would be: Oyster; Jubilee; Rubber. The Oyster is sturdier than the lumpy bracelet, more attractive (in my opinion) and it retains the diver's suit extension, which was dropped from the Jubilee. Ive nothing against the Z22 rubber bracelet, I have one on my 009, but they can be bought for under a fiver; so a new watch sold with one for £5 less than a steel bracelet (whichll cost you about £30) represent a false economy, even if youd prefer a rubber strap.
You know it's quartz ?
From what I've read, that one is quite a new model and wears a lot bigger on the wrist than it's dimensions would have you believe.
The SNA225 is the older version and wears slightly smaller :
It's on my (ever expanding) to buy list. I'm not a fan of bracelets so I'd get the rubber and sling this straight on a NATO. I love the way it's a b*****d child of a Daytona and Sub.
This is a better picture from another forum :
I might be talking cobblers but I think you can only set the alarm a maximum of 12 hours before.
From what I've read, that one is quite a new model and wears a lot bigger on the wrist than it's dimensions would have you believe.
The SNA225 is the older version and wears slightly smaller :
It's on my (ever expanding) to buy list. I'm not a fan of bracelets so I'd get the rubber and sling this straight on a NATO. I love the way it's a b*****d child of a Daytona and Sub.
This is a better picture from another forum :
I might be talking cobblers but I think you can only set the alarm a maximum of 12 hours before.
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