Alloy wheel refurb
Discussion
I suggest you post this in the regional section as you'll hopefully get a more specific response from those with experience of the local businesses doing this type of work.
If you're not aware there are 3 types of repair. 1. Smart repairs which are normally a wet paint type repair and just deal with the front of the wheel and inevitably are with the tyre left in place, but pushed off the rim to assist working.
2. Wet painting in a full refurb with the tyre off and the wheel stripped/shot blasted before painting. Wet painting allows the repairer to fill the wheel if there's very bad pitting from corrosion as I understand as the wheel isn't heated to the same temperature as the 3rd option, namely powder coating.
3. Powder coating applies the finish as a magnetised powder and it's then heated/baked on at temperatures that can make filler literally melt and fall of the rim. I understand powder coating is more durable.
If you've got polished wheel edges, these are probably done at the end of the process with the finish taken back to the base via something akin to a polisher and then lacquered to protect the finish - this gives helps durability but if it gets chipped, corrosion can spread easily.
One word of caution, if you're not into cleaning your own car, many local hand wash operators use chemicals on the wheels to clean them and these are usually acid based and cam attack the finish around hub area/ behind the wheel centre badges and also the backs of the wheels as it's almost impossible without care to remove all remnants of the chemical during the final washing off they undertake - the chemicals are not meant to be left on the wheels permanently. You're best of regularly cleaning them with soapy water and getting a good sealant on them when they're clean.
If you're not aware there are 3 types of repair. 1. Smart repairs which are normally a wet paint type repair and just deal with the front of the wheel and inevitably are with the tyre left in place, but pushed off the rim to assist working.
2. Wet painting in a full refurb with the tyre off and the wheel stripped/shot blasted before painting. Wet painting allows the repairer to fill the wheel if there's very bad pitting from corrosion as I understand as the wheel isn't heated to the same temperature as the 3rd option, namely powder coating.
3. Powder coating applies the finish as a magnetised powder and it's then heated/baked on at temperatures that can make filler literally melt and fall of the rim. I understand powder coating is more durable.
If you've got polished wheel edges, these are probably done at the end of the process with the finish taken back to the base via something akin to a polisher and then lacquered to protect the finish - this gives helps durability but if it gets chipped, corrosion can spread easily.
One word of caution, if you're not into cleaning your own car, many local hand wash operators use chemicals on the wheels to clean them and these are usually acid based and cam attack the finish around hub area/ behind the wheel centre badges and also the backs of the wheels as it's almost impossible without care to remove all remnants of the chemical during the final washing off they undertake - the chemicals are not meant to be left on the wheels permanently. You're best of regularly cleaning them with soapy water and getting a good sealant on them when they're clean.
I used Pristine on my 987 a few years ago, they redid the Turbo wheels which are diamond cut...the finish lasted under 3 months before it started blowing and going cloudy and they really had to be badgered to do them again for free...when the did the chamfered the edge of the alloy where the stud goes in so the edge was not so, well edgy! Basically they took the edge off without any reference to me and did a pretty poor job...I would not use them again despite them being less than 10 miles down the road...try Chris at exel who I think picks up and drops off at Lepsons (He is near Luton) as he sorted out a wheel on my 981 a year ago..
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