My 1968 Olsen Nimbus restoration project.
Discussion
Black attracts growth like a bugger, go for red. Good colour break when heeled over going to windward.
Nice colour App here.
http://www.altexboatpaint.com/ayb_colour_your_boat
Nice colour App here.
http://www.altexboatpaint.com/ayb_colour_your_boat
Edited by Fishtigua on Sunday 20th July 20:17
I always had a theory that dark colours attracted less growth, you never see much in an underwater cave..
But after my last Boss had me and my deckie sanding 0ver 200sqm of the black stuff in mid July, I never want to see it again! (up until the last two years of running his boat, I always had the boat ready for the season by Easter, and I still don't understand why he decided he knew better..).
But I recon growth varies from marina to marina. What works in one, doesn't in another.
Blue is my favourite colour, but I see a lot of classics have red antifouling, and as much as I don't like to see red on a boat, I think it does look classy on the bottom.
Seems to look nice on the link for the colour app too, so I'm not going to rule it out, I just wondered if I was mad
Thanks for your opinion's chaps
But after my last Boss had me and my deckie sanding 0ver 200sqm of the black stuff in mid July, I never want to see it again! (up until the last two years of running his boat, I always had the boat ready for the season by Easter, and I still don't understand why he decided he knew better..).
But I recon growth varies from marina to marina. What works in one, doesn't in another.
Blue is my favourite colour, but I see a lot of classics have red antifouling, and as much as I don't like to see red on a boat, I think it does look classy on the bottom.
Seems to look nice on the link for the colour app too, so I'm not going to rule it out, I just wondered if I was mad
Thanks for your opinion's chaps
mickrick said:
Actually... I am mad!
I think we all knew that with starting this project.Which colour are you going for then?
I was blocked when discussing about buying an old boat to work on, was told house was more important. So hopefully will be restoring a boat in a few years time, just need to get a house bought and renovated first...
In the mean time, I will juts follow your progress.
elster said:
mickrick said:
Actually... I am mad!
I think we all knew that with starting this project.Good luck with the house project. Just finished mine after 8 years. But I took my time (as I do) and did it as funds and time allowed, no borrowing from the pesky banks.
It was quite a project, 2 small houses into one, and I ended up doing what I did with this little boat. Taking it back to the bare shell.
It was also an awkward one, as there's not a square room in the place... It's shaped like half a cheese.
Anyway back to boats, you could always try and persuade your good lady onto a live aboard...
I'll leave the antifouling colour decision until the day, just wondered if it would look a bit daft with a pale blue hull against a red bum! The colour apps are a big help. Thanks Fish
Ahh, antifouling, now here i am a bit of a subject matter expert with my boat being kept in one of the worst areas in teh world for hull fouling (water brackish, full of nitrates and silt, temperature and colour of warm tea and teaming with all sorts of things that want to latch onto your hull then grow at an unnaturally fast rate!!!
Simple rules of thumb - the heavier the paint is the better (more copper in it), the darker the colour, the more copper it can carry - red and black usually the best colours.
If you are in a low fouling area or somewhere where you only get slime and not barnicles etc get a hard antifoul, if it a bad fouling area get soft, and you can wipe the critters off with a gardening glove easily from the water without ripping patches of paint away to the epoxy primer. just accept that you will have to repaint more often.
If you can find it, Alexseal ABC is one of the best from my experience, but get someone else to carry the cans to the boat, its effin heavy!
Do not be tempted with some of the old fishermans tales of sticking weedkiller or agent orange from the back of the garage in with the paint, it likely wont do anything to help and will make you as sick as a dog when you go diving on the boat to clean the hull.
Simple rules of thumb - the heavier the paint is the better (more copper in it), the darker the colour, the more copper it can carry - red and black usually the best colours.
If you are in a low fouling area or somewhere where you only get slime and not barnicles etc get a hard antifoul, if it a bad fouling area get soft, and you can wipe the critters off with a gardening glove easily from the water without ripping patches of paint away to the epoxy primer. just accept that you will have to repaint more often.
If you can find it, Alexseal ABC is one of the best from my experience, but get someone else to carry the cans to the boat, its effin heavy!
Do not be tempted with some of the old fishermans tales of sticking weedkiller or agent orange from the back of the garage in with the paint, it likely wont do anything to help and will make you as sick as a dog when you go diving on the boat to clean the hull.
You make some very valid points there John. Thanks for the tips
I´ll definitely be going for the soft stuff, as it doesn't need sanding after lifting, and doesn't build up like the hard stuff.
I like to get over the side and give her a rub as you say. Financed my Europa 1994/95 round the world rally that way. Scrubbing bottoms and fixing broken bits on other peoples boats
I´ll definitely be going for the soft stuff, as it doesn't need sanding after lifting, and doesn't build up like the hard stuff.
I like to get over the side and give her a rub as you say. Financed my Europa 1994/95 round the world rally that way. Scrubbing bottoms and fixing broken bits on other peoples boats
Did a bit more the last couple of days.
I fitted the station/guardrail bases. They were originally screwed on with machine screws tapped into the glassfiber. I didn't like the look of it, so I decided to use Helicoil inserts. I also went for metric screws instead of the original imperial sizes.
I drilled out the old thread, and re-tapped for the insert.
I then wet out the holes with West System epoxy resin.
In goes the insert.
I did this to all 20 threads on 4 station bases. Than I coated the screws with mould release wax to stop the epoxy sticking to the screws. This would stop the epoxy getting into the insert threads.
I need to pass the heads of the screws over the buffing wheel, so they match the shininess of the station bases.
Here are the station bases, after being straightened out (as best as possible) and given a buff up.
Then I realised I'd forgotten to clean off the old bedding compound!
I left the epoxy to set for 24 hours before knocking out the thread insert drive tangs, and fitting the bases, and stations. The stations have also been fettled at the metal shop by my Argentinian welding maestro mate
I also put the rest of the screws in the rubbing strake. I doubled up, halving the centres. I'm much happier with the way it sits now
More to come...
Thanks for looking.
M.
I fitted the station/guardrail bases. They were originally screwed on with machine screws tapped into the glassfiber. I didn't like the look of it, so I decided to use Helicoil inserts. I also went for metric screws instead of the original imperial sizes.
I drilled out the old thread, and re-tapped for the insert.
I then wet out the holes with West System epoxy resin.
In goes the insert.
I did this to all 20 threads on 4 station bases. Than I coated the screws with mould release wax to stop the epoxy sticking to the screws. This would stop the epoxy getting into the insert threads.
I need to pass the heads of the screws over the buffing wheel, so they match the shininess of the station bases.
Here are the station bases, after being straightened out (as best as possible) and given a buff up.
Then I realised I'd forgotten to clean off the old bedding compound!
I left the epoxy to set for 24 hours before knocking out the thread insert drive tangs, and fitting the bases, and stations. The stations have also been fettled at the metal shop by my Argentinian welding maestro mate
I also put the rest of the screws in the rubbing strake. I doubled up, halving the centres. I'm much happier with the way it sits now
More to come...
Thanks for looking.
M.
Edited by mickrick on Thursday 24th July 17:37
Looking very nice now m8, she will be a real treat when the launch date comes and a real privilege to own and sail, be far better than the day she was new and with some lovely updates.
Had you sailed her much before you took her out for a refit, so that you realised how and what needed to change to make her a better boat ?
No, I was just visiting always backwards and forwards down there, can't keep away, some friends of mine are down in Muros at this moment in time in their camper more Yachties, done it all by sea for years now having a look around the other way.
Catch you soon
KT
Had you sailed her much before you took her out for a refit, so that you realised how and what needed to change to make her a better boat ?
No, I was just visiting always backwards and forwards down there, can't keep away, some friends of mine are down in Muros at this moment in time in their camper more Yachties, done it all by sea for years now having a look around the other way.
Catch you soon
KT
Never sailed her yet! Found her as in the first picture. Old Bukh DV10 in bits, some in the bilge, and the block wrapped in rope, sitting on bits of wood.
She still had personal stuff inside, which I boxed up and gave to the broker who promised to send it back. he didn´t, even though he asked me to box it up and give to him....
She may sail like a dog!.... We´ll see
She still had personal stuff inside, which I boxed up and gave to the broker who promised to send it back. he didn´t, even though he asked me to box it up and give to him....
She may sail like a dog!.... We´ll see
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