Renovating an old wooden sports boat, am I mad?
Discussion
mickrick said:
If the plans give you table of offsets lofting is easy. You only need to do half the frame, then flip it for the other half.
Just lay the paper on your board, and trace it through by knocking the point of a nail through your lofting line.
Are you laminating the frames? If so you don´t need to cut the board, just screw blocks on to clamp your laminates to.
Use brown shiny parcel tape on your forms to stop epoxy sticking to them.
Plans are 'full size', so just need tracing and cutting.Just lay the paper on your board, and trace it through by knocking the point of a nail through your lofting line.
Are you laminating the frames? If so you don´t need to cut the board, just screw blocks on to clamp your laminates to.
Use brown shiny parcel tape on your forms to stop epoxy sticking to them.
The rest of that is only just starting to make sense, good call on the parcel tape, that tip will come in handy I'm sure!
RichB said:
Huntsman said:
maser_spyder said:
Has to be petrol I think, no point saving money building one myself and then going for a noisy bus engine.
Get with the program....Current Cummins QSB 6.7 is 550hp and 1250 ft/lbs
650hp rating coming next year.
Don't forget you need a cooling system.
Diesel is safer than petrol; a turbodiesel needn't disappoint (see Motorvator).
Big marine engines drink fuel whatever they are.
Huntsman said:
I'm not sure an Italian petrol automotive engine would cope with the duty cycle of a marine application, plus the aggravation of sorting the marinisation.
The QSB I referred to is a fully marinised motor.
It's not really an option; the specs on the website state the heaviest allowable engine is a small block V8, which is about half the weight of a QSB.The QSB I referred to is a fully marinised motor.
How are you planning to finish the hull?
Are you cold moulding mahogany/other Hardwood veneers over a ply covered stringered frame, then clear coating with epoxy/GRF?
engine wise a modern high powered petrol marine V6 would seem an obvious choice for weight, power, control, reliability and still provide an interesting sound track at an overall lower cost than an automotive V8 conversion.
Are you cold moulding mahogany/other Hardwood veneers over a ply covered stringered frame, then clear coating with epoxy/GRF?
engine wise a modern high powered petrol marine V6 would seem an obvious choice for weight, power, control, reliability and still provide an interesting sound track at an overall lower cost than an automotive V8 conversion.
OneDs said:
How are you planning to finish the hull?
Are you cold moulding mahogany/other Hardwood veneers over a ply covered stringered frame, then clear coating with epoxy/GRF?
engine wise a modern high powered petrol marine V6 would seem an obvious choice for weight, power, control, reliability and still provide an interesting sound track at an overall lower cost than an automotive V8 conversion.
Exactly that, douglas fir frame, covered with douglas fir ply and a mahogany veneer, then clear coated.Are you cold moulding mahogany/other Hardwood veneers over a ply covered stringered frame, then clear coating with epoxy/GRF?
engine wise a modern high powered petrol marine V6 would seem an obvious choice for weight, power, control, reliability and still provide an interesting sound track at an overall lower cost than an automotive V8 conversion.
I keep saying, engines are the least of my worries at the moment! I've put the feelers out for timber, waiting on a couple of quotes and availability.
Plans should be on the way this week, might take a week or two to arrive from the US.
I would guess I'll be making a start properly in about 2-3 weeks....
Perec said:
maser_spyder said:
Stuff
Can you confirm that boat building will not interfere with your toboggan development scheme?
Might manage a couple of weeks, but can't do the season.This boat (and another couple of projects) is my escapism for the first quarter of next year, I gotta keep busy or I'll go crazy!
That said, I have launched a range of winter items this year, so that could be a good excuse to spend some time out there!
maser_spyder said:
Perec said:
maser_spyder said:
Stuff
Can you confirm that boat building will not interfere with your toboggan development scheme? Might manage a couple of weeks, but can't do the season.This boat (and another couple of projects) is my escapism for the first quarter of next year, I gotta keep busy or I'll go crazy!
That said, I have launched a range of winter items this year, so that could be a good excuse to spend some time out there!
Perec said:
maser_spyder said:
Perec said:
Oh so you normally spend the ski season in the snow, as opposed to here?
Yup. 
I'm pretty quiet for the first quarter, so relatively easy to get stuck in to my old projects again. Toboggans, Frogeye, Moke, and now boat...
I have a superb new workshop now, loads of space, loads of tools and equipment, totally set up for a big project like this.
I should keep a spend diary, I've already bought plans and tools, would guess that's £500 already, oops!
OneDs said:
Budget Creep!!!
I also need to get a router table & bandsaw before I start my project but that's probably way further off than this winter, out of interest what did you go for? Don't want to spend loads but do want something that will provide reliability & portability.
I'm not too fussed on the router table, so got a cheap one with a motor/router built in (1/4 and 1/2" collets). If it's good and I use it, I'll invest in a better one. I've already got a 1/4" cheapy router, a 1/2" cheapy and a good 1/2" one as well, so between four routers, it should be enough. £125 delivered.I also need to get a router table & bandsaw before I start my project but that's probably way further off than this winter, out of interest what did you go for? Don't want to spend loads but do want something that will provide reliability & portability.
Bandsaw, I went for a Metabo BAS 260, floor standing with 260mm jaws. Again, not the best in the world at £200, but if it's good and I really use it, I'll get rid and buy a better one.
Just about to press the button on a Bosch Professional jigsaw and planer. The Bosch jigsaw gets a superb review everywhere, it's absolutely brilliant apparently. I've already got a 36V Bosch Pro drill, which has been flawless in four years, so happy to invest in more of the same.
The only thing I might need that I don't have is a dust extractor. I've got a basic one like a workshop hoover, but the hose is only about a metre long so I'd need something a bit better than that.
I've already got compressors and air tools (DA sanders, etc.) in the workshop.
I'll wait for some bits to arrive next week and upload some pics!
I have a bosch electric planer which is great for chomping through stuff in quick order, it even makes for a reasonable jointer for thin/ends of stock held upside in the work bench with a suitable scrap fence and feather board and in & out table extensions, it leaves very slight ridged finish though so still requires finishing. Let me know how you get on with the bandsaw. My dust extractor is a Henry with associated attachments, you can pick up longer hoses easily, although the extra capacity and power is always handy.
It sounds like your workshop is going to give Norm Abrams a run by the end of this.
It sounds like your workshop is going to give Norm Abrams a run by the end of this.
Edited by OneDs on Thursday 24th October 22:46
When I first opened my plans I thought is was a foreign language. Takes a bit of time to sink in, they really are a work of art. The planning phase of the build is going to take a few months on it's own. It really is a fully fledged project, deciding when and how you are going to build individual components and how rigidly you're going stick to the design and instructions.
For example, I'd like to use some proper joinery, like tenons, dovetails, tongue & groove etc.. rather than solely rely on the butt, scarph & epoxy methods described on things like the thwarts, seats and centreboard case, this means that the construction and timing of these elements needs to be considered before the first mould is placed on the strong back, I'm also considered stretching the plans by a ft and this is major exercise in a-level maths I thought I'd never use again.
For example, I'd like to use some proper joinery, like tenons, dovetails, tongue & groove etc.. rather than solely rely on the butt, scarph & epoxy methods described on things like the thwarts, seats and centreboard case, this means that the construction and timing of these elements needs to be considered before the first mould is placed on the strong back, I'm also considered stretching the plans by a ft and this is major exercise in a-level maths I thought I'd never use again.
Edited by OneDs on Tuesday 29th October 16:51
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