can you please help me find out what type of boat this is ?
Discussion
With the 150kg motor hanging off the back, the trailer will be dealing with a great deal if only rated at 750kg. Maybe okay in the boatyard or slipway but I wouldn't be towing it on the roads.
http://www.armitagetrailers.com/trailerlaw.htm
http://www.solentribster.com/towing_requirements.h...
http://www.armitagetrailers.com/trailerlaw.htm
http://www.solentribster.com/towing_requirements.h...
Edited by Fishtigua on Wednesday 23 April 22:30
CSLmarson said:
Hi
Yes the wheels will move to the rear of the trailer, it's a snipe trailer single axel with suspention fated at 750kg.
Is the main thing that the weight is balanced equally ?
I will get some pics
That will be marginal once the engine is on; it might just go, but you'd need to weigh it to check you're not overweight and a good tow car to avoid the tail wagging the dog. You certainly won't be able to put much in the boat while towing.Yes the wheels will move to the rear of the trailer, it's a snipe trailer single axel with suspention fated at 750kg.
Is the main thing that the weight is balanced equally ?
I will get some pics
The balance thing is necessary for safe driving; the norm is ~20kg nose weight at the tow hitch, if there is too much nose weight or negative nose weight the tow will be unstable.
The spray rails don't look right for a Crusader. Can't tell you what it is though. Cottage industry boat at a guess or maybe an early development of the Crusader. (that's saying the same thing really)
Looks as though the transom has been replaced though and I would have someone in the know have a quick look around before hanging a motor on the back.
Also have a look at the dash, there's a lot of strength removed with that upright slot. Easy fix but worth a look.
Trailer wise forget the balance to start with, you need to get it positioned so that the transom is supported or risk a bent / broken bottom as I doubt the hogs are up to much. After you have done that and rigged it reposition the axles to get around 25 kg of nose weight when towing.
Weight wise it's hard to tell without seeing the added structures and repairs but I expect the whole rig will come in around 700 kg.
Subject to the transom the 90 will likely push it along ok. Fuel wise you will often use more over the same distance travelled if underpowered as the boat won't get to it's optimum efficient attitude. Go for a new Dfi model outboard over an old carb and you will see dranatic fuel savings for the same power.
Looks as though the transom has been replaced though and I would have someone in the know have a quick look around before hanging a motor on the back.
Also have a look at the dash, there's a lot of strength removed with that upright slot. Easy fix but worth a look.
Trailer wise forget the balance to start with, you need to get it positioned so that the transom is supported or risk a bent / broken bottom as I doubt the hogs are up to much. After you have done that and rigged it reposition the axles to get around 25 kg of nose weight when towing.
Weight wise it's hard to tell without seeing the added structures and repairs but I expect the whole rig will come in around 700 kg.
Subject to the transom the 90 will likely push it along ok. Fuel wise you will often use more over the same distance travelled if underpowered as the boat won't get to it's optimum efficient attitude. Go for a new Dfi model outboard over an old carb and you will see dranatic fuel savings for the same power.
Disagree with you mashedpotatoes. I owned various ski-boats for over 25 years and found aluminium props to be false economy. I used my boats in both lakes and the sea. After a few days out cut short by a damaged prop i realised it was not worth it. With the stainless props i have hit wooden objects, hidden rocks etc. and never had to cancel a day out. Just bend a blade on an aluminium prop and you will be going nowhere and the day is over. Also you have to take into consideration that repairs are not a diy job and the boat will be out of use. In the middle of a hot summer the repair might take a while. In this country the boating season is so short you dont want to miss out because you are waiting on someone else who is snowed under with work. Also it does not take many repairs to add up to the cost of a stainless prop. Lots of second hand stainless props are available in the states.
testosterone said:
Disagree with you mashedpotatoes. I owned various ski-boats for over 25 years and found aluminium props to be false economy. I used my boats in both lakes and the sea. After a few days out cut short by a damaged prop i realised it was not worth it. With the stainless props i have hit wooden objects, hidden rocks etc. and never had to cancel a day out. Just bend a blade on an aluminium prop and you will be going nowhere and the day is over. Also you have to take into consideration that repairs are not a diy job and the boat will be out of use. In the middle of a hot summer the repair might take a while. In this country the boating season is so short you dont want to miss out because you are waiting on someone else who is snowed under with work. Also it does not take many repairs to add up to the cost of a stainless prop. Lots of second hand stainless props are available in the states.
Hi testosterone Bit confused about your comment are you saying stainless will be a bit more robust when it hits something therefore you can carry on? Not disagreeing necessarily but I have had some very mangled stainless props after various arguments with underwater objects
Btw I am a big fan of stainless and have had a collection for racing, but for my pleasure boat I run a 4 bladed aluminium that I imported from the us for about £150 that gives me great stern lift which helps for a lower planing speed for cruising and wake boarding. It was much cheaper to experiment with ally to get the right prop for the job than stainless.
I think in the OP's case he is looking to get on the water for a budget therefore an ally will be just fine ( second hand ally props can be bought for @ £30) never bought one my self but have seen them on eBay.
When he/she has a bit more experience/money/whatever then have a think about stainless but for now no reall need after all you wouldn't tell a newly passed 17 year car driver they should be running low profiles and a sports,suspension as they could get round a bend .8 of a second quicker.
Get out on the water op as cheap and as safely as you can. Nothing in the world compares to a life pissing around with boats, everything else comes second.
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