Stuka in winter camo' pics?

[Eric Mc]

Are you referring to Brett Green?



He's actually a really nice chap. I met him a couple of times at some of the Telford shows. He's an Aussie who runs the Hyperscale website and has written a number of books for Osprey and some other publishers.

[dr_gn]

Eric Mc said:

Are you referring to Brett Green?



He's actually a really nice chap. I met him a couple of times at some of the Telford shows. He's an Aussie who runs the Hyperscale website and has written a number of books for Osprey and some other publishers.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhh Nooooooooooooooooooooooo.

All that councelling down the pan.

[Eric Mc]

He has a very good technique for making Tamiya Tape less tacky

[dr_gn]

Eric Mc said:

He has a very good technique for making Tamiya Tape less tacky

Yeah I bet he has

[Eric Mc]

dr_gn said:

Eric Mc said:

He has a very good technique for making Tamiya Tape less tacky

Yeah I bet he has

I use it now too - it's very effective.

[dr_gn]

Eric Mc said:

dr_gn said:

Eric Mc said:

He has a very good technique for making Tamiya Tape less tacky

Yeah I bet he has

I use it now too - it's very effective.

Do you want to know my own special technique for making masking tape *more* sticky?

[Eric Mc]

Definitely not.

[dr_gn]

Eric Mc said:

[T89 Callan]

dr_gn said:

T89 Callan said:

dr_gn said:

T89 Callan said:

Cheers man, I really like this one. This is what I am going to aim for.

The pictures show that each one was definately a product of it's own crew and unique.

dr_gn said:

Edited by T89 Callan on Monday 4th January 20:03

Cotton bud with some thinned white paint on it?

Or a tiny sponge? I got one from Hobbycraft for wiping excess wash off a model. I think it was in the watercolour/painting equipment section.

EDIT : I'd be inclined to add the whitewash after the decal stage, but before applying a dark wash to bring out the panel lines, possibly with some post-shading (using thinned Tamiya Smoke), and exhuast staining etc. I think if you apply the white as a final touch, it would look wrong. I'd also leave any canopy masking in place before doing it. BTW I've never tried post-shading, but the rebuilt Mustang on Britmodeller (mentioned in my Spitfire rebuild thread) looks good IMO, and would make the whitewash look a bit more subtle.

Edited by dr_gn on Monday 4th January 21:54

Cheers for the advice, I don't have a fking clue what you're talking about though.

It will be stickers - whitewash - finished

Forget the post-shading then.

A wash is just thinned pigment capillaried or wiped into the panel lines and control surface breaks (assuming your model has recessed lines), then any excess wiped off the main surfaces of the model. It then leaves the panel lines darker than the rest of the model. It can look really good, but if overdone it looks crap. I have been using Promodeller dark and light washes (can be mixed), which is water soluble, so if you get it wrong you can just rinse it off. Brush or airbrush a coat of Johnson's Klear onto the model before you try it (stops the wash staining/soaking into any matt or satin paint). After the wash, you then coat with whatever varnish you prefer, and it's done.

This, IMO is slightly overdone, but this model has had a panel line wash:



Here is some info:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwHP6Tj13DE

There is loads of stuff on YouTube about weathering models, much of it presented by a very very scary looking man.

Yeah I'm not into all that. No offence but that model looks like it's from a Disney Cartoon and I know that if I tried mine would look even more ridiculous than that.

I'd try and then it would go wrong, and then I would try to fix it and make it worse and then I would smash it up and be left with nothing.

[Eric Mc]

Which kit are you building, the old Revell one or the newer Hasegawa?

[dr_gn]

T89 Callan said:

dr_gn said:

T89 Callan said:

dr_gn said:

T89 Callan said:

Cheers man, I really like this one. This is what I am going to aim for.

The pictures show that each one was definately a product of it's own crew and unique.

dr_gn said:

Edited by T89 Callan on Monday 4th January 20:03

Cotton bud with some thinned white paint on it?

Or a tiny sponge? I got one from Hobbycraft for wiping excess wash off a model. I think it was in the watercolour/painting equipment section.

EDIT : I'd be inclined to add the whitewash after the decal stage, but before applying a dark wash to bring out the panel lines, possibly with some post-shading (using thinned Tamiya Smoke), and exhuast staining etc. I think if you apply the white as a final touch, it would look wrong. I'd also leave any canopy masking in place before doing it. BTW I've never tried post-shading, but the rebuilt Mustang on Britmodeller (mentioned in my Spitfire rebuild thread) looks good IMO, and would make the whitewash look a bit more subtle.

Edited by dr_gn on Monday 4th January 21:54

Cheers for the advice, I don't have a fking clue what you're talking about though.

It will be stickers - whitewash - finished

Forget the post-shading then.

A wash is just thinned pigment capillaried or wiped into the panel lines and control surface breaks (assuming your model has recessed lines), then any excess wiped off the main surfaces of the model. It then leaves the panel lines darker than the rest of the model. It can look really good, but if overdone it looks crap. I have been using Promodeller dark and light washes (can be mixed), which is water soluble, so if you get it wrong you can just rinse it off. Brush or airbrush a coat of Johnson's Klear onto the model before you try it (stops the wash staining/soaking into any matt or satin paint). After the wash, you then coat with whatever varnish you prefer, and it's done.

This, IMO is slightly overdone, but this model has had a panel line wash:



Here is some info:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwHP6Tj13DE

There is loads of stuff on YouTube about weathering models, much of it presented by a very very scary looking man.

No offence but that model looks like it's from a Disney Cartoon and I know that if I tried mine would look even more ridiculous than that.

None taken (it's not one of mine). I agree with you, I posted it just to show what a panel line wash was.

There is a review of an Airfix Spitfire in the December "Model Airplane International". The guy complains about the deep panel lines 'looking like a poor diecast model', so what does he do? Instead of just leaving them, he goes and fills them with a pure black wash. The finished model looks ridiculous, but I guess he just couldn't help himself becasue it's the 'done thing' these days.

[Eric Mc]

In one mag, someone did a conversion of the lovely 1/72 Revell Hunter into the prototype (WB188) in its pale blue markings - and ruined it by using a dark wash.

[T89 Callan]

Eric Mc said:

Which kit are you building, the old Revell one or the newer Hasegawa?

I'm doing the Revell D-1 to 5 kit, I might do a Hasegawa G-2 at a later date now that I know where I stand with 1/32nd Stuka's

I certainly won't be using Tamiya or Revell Acrylic paint again though, it's fking rubbish.

[dr_gn]

T89 Callan said:

Eric Mc said:

Which kit are you building, the old Revell one or the newer Hasegawa?

I'm doing the Revell D-1 to 5 kit, I might do a Hasegawa G-2 at a later date now that I know where I stand with 1/32nd Stuka's

I certainly won't be using Tamiya or Revell Acrylic paint again though, it's fking rubbish.

Not if you've got an airbrush.

[T89 Callan]

dr_gn said:

T89 Callan said:

Eric Mc said:

Which kit are you building, the old Revell one or the newer Hasegawa?

I'm doing the Revell D-1 to 5 kit, I might do a Hasegawa G-2 at a later date now that I know where I stand with 1/32nd Stuka's

I certainly won't be using Tamiya or Revell Acrylic paint again though, it's fking rubbish.

Not if you've got an airbrush.

Well I don't. And it doesn't say anywhere on the pot that it's for an airbrush? Would have been nice if it said so I wouldn't have bought it.

[DieselGriff]

T89 Callan said:

Well I don't. And it doesn't say anywhere on the pot that it's for an airbrush? Would have been nice if it said so I wouldn't have bought it.

Tamiya paint in the jar is formulated for brush use and I've used it successfully in small areas for some 20 years, however my skill in using acrylics in large areas leaves something to be desired with a hairy stick but suitably thinned they do seem to go on fairy well using an airbrush (as dr_gn says) and several thin coats.

Personally I've always been a Humbrol Enamels person, they seem to suit my painting and airbrushing.

[dr_gn]

DieselGriff said:

T89 Callan said:

Well I don't. And it doesn't say anywhere on the pot that it's for an airbrush? Would have been nice if it said so I wouldn't have bought it.

Tamiya paint in the jar is formulated for brush use and I've used it successfully in small areas for some 20 years, however my skill in using acrylics in large areas leaves something to be desired with a hairy stick but suitably thinned they do seem to go on fairy well using an airbrush (as dr_gn says) and several thin coats.

Personally I've always been a Humbrol Enamels person, they seem to suit my painting and airbrushing.

I used Humbrol enamels exclusively until two models ago. I think that Tamiya/Revell acrylics dry faster (so you can make some progress) and are definitely much easier to clean.

I have also had no luck with brushing larger areas - they dry too fast, and sometimes "lift off" if you try to overlap brush strokes. I still use enamels for smaller parts sometimes, although so far I've not had to do much detailed work becasue I've not really modelled an undercarriage, engine or cockpit to any extent recently.

I also think that acrylics might be safer for spraying, although this could well be rubbish.

[Eric Mc]

I would echo what most have said -
large areas to brush, use enamels. If using acrylics - stick to an airbrush.
However, acrylics are fine for brush painting fine detials.

Regarding harmfulness, acrylics are generally benign but some of the acrylic thinners are a bit potent. At the Telford show a few months ago I was watching a chap demonstrate airbrush techniques and he was using Mr Color paints and thinners. After about 20 minutes of spraying he started to cough and his eyes began to be irritated.

I've had no problems with my favourites, Xtrarcrylic paint and thinners.

[dr_gn]

Eric Mc said:

I would echo what most have said -
large areas to brush, use enamels. If using acrylics - stick to an airbrush.
However, acrylics are fine for brush painting fine detials.

Regarding harmfulness, acrylics are generally benign but some of the acrylic thinners are a bit potent. At the Telford show a few months ago I was watching a chap demonstrate airbrush techniques and he was using Mr Color paints and thinners. After about 20 minutes of spraying he started to cough and his eyes began to be irritated.

I've had no problems with my favourites, Xtrarcrylic paint and thinners.

You already know my strong recommendation of wearing a respirator when spraying any paint - even from a can. I had enough of the chest pains thanks very much.

[Mojocvh]

dr_gn said:

These are from my book. Not good pictures even in the book I'm afraid, but you can at least see that the white was probably applied by brush:

Ahh but you got to love that "outside my box" German mentality though..

Edited by Mojocvh on Wednesday 6th January 00:33