Discussion
don4l said:
I've probably left this a bit late.
I'm bottling my second batch of beer tonight. Do people rinse the bottles with tap water after sterilising, or do you let the bottles drain and dry out? Does it matter if their is a drop or two of sterilising solution in the bottle?
I rinse, but then again i use bleach tabs! Some sterilising fluid is no rinse. I don't bother dryingI'm bottling my second batch of beer tonight. Do people rinse the bottles with tap water after sterilising, or do you let the bottles drain and dry out? Does it matter if their is a drop or two of sterilising solution in the bottle?
All my equipment is arriving this week, along with the ingredients for my first batch.
I was wondering the same question as that asked above regarding the bottles.
Couple more..
I am going to brew using dry malt extract. I have seen that it clings to the bag as soon as it is damp. Can it be pre weighed into a container first to avoid this? All the vids I have seen seem to have a work around to this, such as adding early before the boil, or accepting the lost malt stuck to the bag.
On bottling again, should I fill a bottle then cap it, or can I fill 10, cap 10, etc?
Finally - conditioning in the bottle/keg. My recipes will say for example, "4 weeks at 20 degrees". How would this be affected at higher/lower temperatures?
On another note, I have a spreadsheet to record costs, recipes etc. Assuming I make 40 bottles from my first batch, it works out at £5.11 per bottle!
I was wondering the same question as that asked above regarding the bottles.
Couple more..
I am going to brew using dry malt extract. I have seen that it clings to the bag as soon as it is damp. Can it be pre weighed into a container first to avoid this? All the vids I have seen seem to have a work around to this, such as adding early before the boil, or accepting the lost malt stuck to the bag.
On bottling again, should I fill a bottle then cap it, or can I fill 10, cap 10, etc?
Finally - conditioning in the bottle/keg. My recipes will say for example, "4 weeks at 20 degrees". How would this be affected at higher/lower temperatures?
On another note, I have a spreadsheet to record costs, recipes etc. Assuming I make 40 bottles from my first batch, it works out at £5.11 per bottle!
Edited by marksx on Tuesday 1st March 22:29
don4l said:
Jonboy_t said:
My question is - what is the best, sweetest, most flavourful (pear/mixed fruit etc) type of juice that I could add in? I was thinking about just a few tablespoons of neat squash like Robinsons or something to give it the flavour and a little sweetness, but I'm not convinced it would work? Need some ideas for 'scientific' experimenting (and getting hammered) 
I put pressed grapes into mine and I am pleased with the result.I went on a brewery experience day on Saturday with a local micro brewery. Always wanted to get into grain brewing properly but all my previous attempts have been rough. I now know where I went wrong so have spent the last few days doing the man maths and convincing th good lady that a proper set up in the shed would pay dividends in the long run...
marksx said:
All my equipment is arriving this week, along with the ingredients for my first batch.
I was wondering the same question as that asked above regarding the bottles.
Couple more..
I am going to brew using dry malt extract. I have seen that it clings to the bag as soon as it is damp. Can it be pre weighed into a container first to avoid this? All the vids I have seen seem to have a work around to this, such as adding early before the boil, or accepting the lost malt stuck to the bag.
On bottling again, should I fill a bottle then cap it, or can I fill 10, cap 10, etc?
Finally - conditioning in the bottle/keg. My recipes will say for example, "4 weeks at 20 degrees". How would this be affected at higher/lower temperatures?
On another note, I have a spreadsheet to record costs, recipes etc. Assuming I make 40 bottles from my first batch, it works out at £5.11 per bottle!
I fill 6 bottles at a time, and then cap them.I was wondering the same question as that asked above regarding the bottles.
Couple more..
I am going to brew using dry malt extract. I have seen that it clings to the bag as soon as it is damp. Can it be pre weighed into a container first to avoid this? All the vids I have seen seem to have a work around to this, such as adding early before the boil, or accepting the lost malt stuck to the bag.
On bottling again, should I fill a bottle then cap it, or can I fill 10, cap 10, etc?
Finally - conditioning in the bottle/keg. My recipes will say for example, "4 weeks at 20 degrees". How would this be affected at higher/lower temperatures?
On another note, I have a spreadsheet to record costs, recipes etc. Assuming I make 40 bottles from my first batch, it works out at £5.11 per bottle!
Edited by marksx on Tuesday 1st March 22:29
I put half a teaspoon of sugar into each bottle to provide "gas". They need two days at about 20 degrees for this sugar to ferment. After that, I don't think that the temperature is too important.
The instructions that came with the kit suggested that the beer would be ready for drinking after two weeks. This is nonsense. The beer needs at least 4 weeks before it is ready to drink.
Two weeks after bottling, the beer was really yeasty, and tasted very "home brewed". After four weeks, the yeasty taste had almost disappeared. After six weeks, the taste was superb, and the beer had become almost creamy in texture.
don4l said:
I fill 6 bottles at a time, and then cap them.
I put half a teaspoon of sugar into each bottle to provide "gas". They need two days at about 20 degrees for this sugar to ferment. After that, I don't think that the temperature is too important.
The instructions that came with the kit suggested that the beer would be ready for drinking after two weeks. This is nonsense. The beer needs at least 4 weeks before it is ready to drink.
Two weeks after bottling, the beer was really yeasty, and tasted very "home brewed". After four weeks, the yeasty taste had almost disappeared. After six weeks, the taste was superb, and the beer had become almost creamy in texture.
Interesting thank you. I put half a teaspoon of sugar into each bottle to provide "gas". They need two days at about 20 degrees for this sugar to ferment. After that, I don't think that the temperature is too important.
The instructions that came with the kit suggested that the beer would be ready for drinking after two weeks. This is nonsense. The beer needs at least 4 weeks before it is ready to drink.
Two weeks after bottling, the beer was really yeasty, and tasted very "home brewed". After four weeks, the yeasty taste had almost disappeared. After six weeks, the taste was superb, and the beer had become almost creamy in texture.
My intention is to ferment the beer in my spare room at 20 degrees, so if I filled the bottles, kept them in the room for a few days, then put them in the loft for a few weeks, there wouldn't be an issue? Potentially the loft could be a lot colder. (Or even warmer in summer).
Regarding priming sugar, I see differing opinions on adding to the bottle or fermenter. To me, adding to the fermenter and stirring, will pull up some sediment, no matter how careful you are. Have you ever had a problem priming in the bottle?
marksx said:
Regarding priming sugar, I see differing opinions on adding to the bottle or fermenter. To me, adding to the fermenter and stirring, will pull up some sediment, no matter how careful you are. Have you ever had a problem priming in the bottle?
Don't batch prime in the primary, unless you like soup
, after fermentation is complete, cold crash then rack to a secondary fermenter and do it in there...Hoonigan said:
Don't batch prime in the primary, unless you like soup??, after fermentation is complete, cold crash then rack to a secondary fermenter and do it in there ????
Excuse my ignorance here, that is a new term to me. I've had a quick google.I ferment in a primary fermenter for say 2 weeks at 20 deg. Transfer to a second fermenter, still at 20 deg, then put somewhere cold for a day or two. Prime the batch at this temp, fill the bottles, then store at 20 deg again for a few days again before long term storage?
EDIT - or drop the temp in the primary then transfer?
Edited by marksx on Wednesday 2nd March 18:04
I've recently brewed my first home kit for a few years, this one:
http://www.home-brew-online.com/beer-kits-c1/ameri...
Its come out rather sweet. It never really got bubbling away, and I made sure to leave it three days longer to brew than the instructions said. Is it likely that yeast may have been off/no-good? I know with bread that old yeast makes poor bread.
http://www.home-brew-online.com/beer-kits-c1/ameri...
Its come out rather sweet. It never really got bubbling away, and I made sure to leave it three days longer to brew than the instructions said. Is it likely that yeast may have been off/no-good? I know with bread that old yeast makes poor bread.
marksx said:
Hoonigan said:
Don't batch prime in the primary, unless you like soup??, after fermentation is complete, cold crash then rack to a secondary fermenter and do it in there ????
Excuse my ignorance here, that is a new term to me. I've had a quick google.I ferment in a primary fermenter for say 2 weeks at 20 deg. Transfer to a second fermenter, still at 20 deg, then put somewhere cold for a day or two. Prime the batch at this temp, fill the bottles, then store at 20 deg again for a few days again before long term storage?
EDIT - or drop the temp in the primary then transfer?
Edited by marksx on Wednesday 2nd March 18:04
marksx said:
don4l said:
I fill 6 bottles at a time, and then cap them.
I put half a teaspoon of sugar into each bottle to provide "gas". They need two days at about 20 degrees for this sugar to ferment. After that, I don't think that the temperature is too important.
The instructions that came with the kit suggested that the beer would be ready for drinking after two weeks. This is nonsense. The beer needs at least 4 weeks before it is ready to drink.
Two weeks after bottling, the beer was really yeasty, and tasted very "home brewed". After four weeks, the yeasty taste had almost disappeared. After six weeks, the taste was superb, and the beer had become almost creamy in texture.
Interesting thank you. I put half a teaspoon of sugar into each bottle to provide "gas". They need two days at about 20 degrees for this sugar to ferment. After that, I don't think that the temperature is too important.
The instructions that came with the kit suggested that the beer would be ready for drinking after two weeks. This is nonsense. The beer needs at least 4 weeks before it is ready to drink.
Two weeks after bottling, the beer was really yeasty, and tasted very "home brewed". After four weeks, the yeasty taste had almost disappeared. After six weeks, the taste was superb, and the beer had become almost creamy in texture.
My intention is to ferment the beer in my spare room at 20 degrees, so if I filled the bottles, kept them in the room for a few days, then put them in the loft for a few weeks, there wouldn't be an issue? Potentially the loft could be a lot colder. (Or even warmer in summer).
Regarding priming sugar, I see differing opinions on adding to the bottle or fermenter. To me, adding to the fermenter and stirring, will pull up some sediment, no matter how careful you are. Have you ever had a problem priming in the bottle?
I bottled my latest/second batch last night.
Next batch should be started tonight or tomorrow. I will be following this guy's advice:-
http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&...
DMN said:
I've recently brewed my first home kit for a few years, this one:
http://www.home-brew-online.com/beer-kits-c1/ameri...
Its come out rather sweet. It never really got bubbling away, and I made sure to leave it three days longer to brew than the instructions said. Is it likely that yeast may have been off/no-good? I know with bread that old yeast makes poor bread.
Do you have a hydrometer (and thermometer)? If not, get one of each.http://www.home-brew-online.com/beer-kits-c1/ameri...
Its come out rather sweet. It never really got bubbling away, and I made sure to leave it three days longer to brew than the instructions said. Is it likely that yeast may have been off/no-good? I know with bread that old yeast makes poor bread.
Hydrometer let's you know what's going on, if you don't mix all the gloop fully you may not get full fermentation, also if the temp drops the fermentation can stall. Or if not warm enough to start then never really get going. Also need plenty of air in the mix before pitching yeast. Should see a nice amount of foam (krausen) in about 24 hours from pitching.
Most kits gives final gravity you should be at before bottling, hydrometer is the only way to tell if you're there or not.
I've done about 15 kits over the last 2 years or so and not a duff one yet.
Generally I do 2 weeks in primary in a water bath, then rack to a clean bucket with the priming sugar and bottle from there. Then 2 weeks in the airing cupboard to carbonate. Then into the garage for as long as possible.
marksx said:
then put them in the loft for a few weeks, there wouldn't be an issue? Potentially the loft could be a lot colder. (Or even warmer in summer).
Personally I wouldn't keep beer in a loft for conditioning, the temperature fluctuation within them can be huge. Best keep the beer somewhere that's cool but doesn't fluctuate too much e.g. under stairs cupboard, garage, etc.It could easily get below freezing in a loft space on a cold day, if the beer froze then it will go flat and it could well crack the bottles as it thaws out. Conversely if it gets nice and warm up there it could provoke a vigorous secondary fermentation in the bottles and they can explode when that happens.
C0ffin D0dger said:
Personally I wouldn't keep beer in a loft for conditioning, the temperature fluctuation within them can be huge. Best keep the beer somewhere that's cool but doesn't fluctuate too much e.g. under stairs cupboard, garage, etc.
It could easily get below freezing in a loft space on a cold day, if the beer froze then it will go flat and it could well crack the bottles as it thaws out. Conversely if it gets nice and warm up there it could provoke a vigorous secondary fermentation in the bottles and they can explode when that happens.
Hmm, I may end up doing everything in the spare room then. I can hold the temp with the radiator for fermenting, and initial bottling. Then, turn the rad off after a few days for it to sit cool.It could easily get below freezing in a loft space on a cold day, if the beer froze then it will go flat and it could well crack the bottles as it thaws out. Conversely if it gets nice and warm up there it could provoke a vigorous secondary fermentation in the bottles and they can explode when that happens.
Is there a way to cold crash without a fridge? I don't think my wife would let me take everything out of ours for a couple of days!
Jonboy_t said:
I'm making some dirt cheap cider as a bit of a test at the moment and am after some ideas. Basically, I'm after getting it 8-9% but still very sweet and possibly some kind of fruit flavoured and ultimately, if all goes well, making 5 gallons to keep in the fridge until the Summer.
At the moment, I have 8l of pressed apple juice (Lidl's own, nothing but the best
) fermenting in 14g of Youngs cider yeast with either 200g or 400g sugar (at work at the mo, can't remember if it was 200g total, or in each demijohn!). Starting gravity of 1.064 and am aiming at around the 1.005 mark for final gravity which would give it about 8.5% - should be there in the next couple of days. I then plan to top up the cider 'base' with some kind of juice to add back in some nice, clean taste and sweetness before I then bottle it, let the gas build for a day or two and fridge it to halt the ferment and get some bubbles in it.
My question is - what is the best, sweetest, most flavourful (pear/mixed fruit etc) type of juice that I could add in? I was thinking about just a few tablespoons of neat squash like Robinsons or something to give it the flavour and a little sweetness, but I'm not convinced it would work? Need some ideas for 'scientific' experimenting (and getting hammered)
For Turbocider use sweet cider yeast, honey, pineapple juice and between 600g and a kg of sugar per 25L for 7 - 9%. You can also put minced sultanas in a muslin bag.At the moment, I have 8l of pressed apple juice (Lidl's own, nothing but the best
) fermenting in 14g of Youngs cider yeast with either 200g or 400g sugar (at work at the mo, can't remember if it was 200g total, or in each demijohn!). Starting gravity of 1.064 and am aiming at around the 1.005 mark for final gravity which would give it about 8.5% - should be there in the next couple of days. I then plan to top up the cider 'base' with some kind of juice to add back in some nice, clean taste and sweetness before I then bottle it, let the gas build for a day or two and fridge it to halt the ferment and get some bubbles in it.My question is - what is the best, sweetest, most flavourful (pear/mixed fruit etc) type of juice that I could add in? I was thinking about just a few tablespoons of neat squash like Robinsons or something to give it the flavour and a little sweetness, but I'm not convinced it would work? Need some ideas for 'scientific' experimenting (and getting hammered)
If you've got a Tesco nearby they sell a raspberry syrup in the Polish section which works well too for bottle priming.
Jonboy_t said:
Turn7 said:
One of the online stores mailed me about the Directors kits as its new, be interesting to see how well it turns out.
Will let you know in about 6 weeks . If I can wait that long! I'm kind of hoping its not going to be up to much as its £26 a kit normally!C0ffin D0dger said:
marksx said:
then put them in the loft for a few weeks, there wouldn't be an issue? Potentially the loft could be a lot colder. (Or even warmer in summer).
Personally I wouldn't keep beer in a loft for conditioning, the temperature fluctuation within them can be huge. Best keep the beer somewhere that's cool but doesn't fluctuate too much e.g. under stairs cupboard, garage, etc.It could easily get below freezing in a loft space on a cold day, if the beer froze then it will go flat and it could well crack the bottles as it thaws out. Conversely if it gets nice and warm up there it could provoke a vigorous secondary fermentation in the bottles and they can explode when that happens.
I'm not an expert, but I feel that temperature control is important.
The beer that I bottled last night is at about 20 degrees. It is in a room that doesn't fluctuate much. It will be moved to a garden shed on Saturday, where it will be cool enough to stop any further fermentation.
I don't think that I will be able to brew during the summer, so I will start another batch tomorrow, and yet another batch in 20 days time.
One thing that I would advise anyone starting out on this is to use clear bottles. You will be able to see how things are progressing. The beer that I bottled yesterday already has a 1mm layer of yeast at the bottom of each bottle. It is also temptengly clear. However, I will resist the urge to taste it for at least 4 weeks -I hope!
Chester draws said:
DMN said:
I've recently brewed my first home kit for a few years, this one:
http://www.home-brew-online.com/beer-kits-c1/ameri...
Its come out rather sweet. It never really got bubbling away, and I made sure to leave it three days longer to brew than the instructions said. Is it likely that yeast may have been off/no-good? I know with bread that old yeast makes poor bread.
Do you have a hydrometer (and thermometer)? If not, get one of each.http://www.home-brew-online.com/beer-kits-c1/ameri...
Its come out rather sweet. It never really got bubbling away, and I made sure to leave it three days longer to brew than the instructions said. Is it likely that yeast may have been off/no-good? I know with bread that old yeast makes poor bread.
Hydrometer let's you know what's going on, if you don't mix all the gloop fully you may not get full fermentation, also if the temp drops the fermentation can stall. Or if not warm enough to start then never really get going. Also need plenty of air in the mix before pitching yeast. Should see a nice amount of foam (krausen) in about 24 hours from pitching.
Most kits gives final gravity you should be at before bottling, hydrometer is the only way to tell if you're there or not.
I've done about 15 kits over the last 2 years or so and not a duff one yet.
Generally I do 2 weeks in primary in a water bath, then rack to a clean bucket with the priming sugar and bottle from there. Then 2 weeks in the airing cupboard to carbonate. Then into the garage for as long as possible.
Turn7 said:
Jonboy_t said:
Turn7 said:
One of the online stores mailed me about the Directors kits as its new, be interesting to see how well it turns out.
Will let you know in about 6 weeks . If I can wait that long! I'm kind of hoping its not going to be up to much as its £26 a kit normally!If it was a £20 kit, I'd give it an 8/10 and would pick it up again if there was no Muntons available, but for something that's almost half the price again, not worth it for my money.
don4l said:
One thing that I would advise anyone starting out on this is to use clear bottles. You will be able to see how things are progressing. The beer that I bottled yesterday already has a 1mm layer of yeast at the bottom of each bottle. It is also temptengly clear. However, I will resist the urge to taste it for at least 4 weeks -I hope!
clear bottles = skunked beer 
You will never find good beer sold in clear bottles for a very good reason, brown bottles all the way... 
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