Discussion
a quick question chaps. i've had my youngs ipa kit going for 15 days now, and am about to add the hops. i bought a second fermenting bucket, so should i transfer to that, and dry hop for a few days, then back to the original to batch prime before bottling off, or, just chuck the hops in the primary, and and transfer to secondary for priming and bottling?
hope that makes sense.
cheers
hope that makes sense.
cheers
I have trouble with temperature of my brews.
Initial fermentation is ok, I have a cupboard close to my hot water tank, this is a constant 22c.
Conditioning is a problem however. In the winter I use a spare room with the heating turned off, fairly consistent temp so this is okay. Summer however, I can't get a consistent temp anywhere. I'm using the cupboard under the stairs, but it's not ideal. Any tips? (Without going to the expense of a cellar)
Initial fermentation is ok, I have a cupboard close to my hot water tank, this is a constant 22c.
Conditioning is a problem however. In the winter I use a spare room with the heating turned off, fairly consistent temp so this is okay. Summer however, I can't get a consistent temp anywhere. I'm using the cupboard under the stairs, but it's not ideal. Any tips? (Without going to the expense of a cellar)
If you want to get technical BrewPi is Raspberry Pi based control system to use an old fridge to maintain temperature.
Re. Craig's comment, what's people's view on batch priming vs priming in the bottle? I've only ever done it in the bottle, presumably batch priming gets better consistency but is there an issue with getting the sugar mixed in while keeping the sediment on the bottom of the bucket?
Re. Craig's comment, what's people's view on batch priming vs priming in the bottle? I've only ever done it in the bottle, presumably batch priming gets better consistency but is there an issue with getting the sugar mixed in while keeping the sediment on the bottom of the bucket?
PositronicRay said:
Conditioning is a problem however. In the winter I use a spare room with the heating turned off, fairly consistent temp so this is okay. Summer however, I can't get a consistent temp anywhere. I'm using the cupboard under the stairs, but it's not ideal. Any tips? (Without going to the expense of a cellar)
Mine condition in the garage, do you have a friendly, (trustworthy) neighbour with a suitable space? Warehouse at work?RizzoTheRat said:
Re. Craig's comment, what's people's view on batch priming vs priming in the bottle? I've only ever done it in the bottle, presumably batch priming gets better consistency but is there an issue with getting the sugar mixed in while keeping the sediment on the bottom of the bucket?
I'm the opposite, I've only ever batch primed, thinking its more guaranteed to get the same amount into each bottle (whether they are 330ml, 500ml or pints).I always dissolve the sugar in an (approx equal volume) of water, put into the bottling bucket and then syphon the beer onto that, mixes as it goes in.
I would NEVER entertain trying to mix the sugar into a bucket that still has the sediment!
And BTW, I've had the Saracen's Wherry tweak on my radar for a while now, picked up a Wherry in Wilkisons for £16 the other day, plus some East Kent Goldings and a bag of spraymalt, and that's going to be my next one. After the Bulldog Evil Dog Double IPA has been bottled!
http://www.wilko.com/cider+beer-brewing/woodfordes...
Edited by Chester draws on Thursday 12th May 10:57
craigthecoupe said:
a quick question chaps. i've had my youngs ipa kit going for 15 days now, and am about to add the hops. i bought a second fermenting bucket, so should i transfer to that, and dry hop for a few days, then back to the original to batch prime before bottling off, or, just chuck the hops in the primary, and and transfer to secondary for priming and bottling?
hope that makes sense.
cheers
sorry craig - missed you out a little bit!hope that makes sense.
cheers
I'll have the same quandary in about two weeks.....
I'll probably rack to a second bucket, immediately add the hops for a day or 2,
then put the priming sugar solution into the first bucket, and rack into that then immediately bottle using the tap and bottling stick.
I have found that the paler beers tend to have less good "clumping" of the sediment in the bottom of the bottles. (I did a Woodfordes NOG, and that gave a mega solid sediment, and that is dark as anything). So I think I'll favour more racking off the trub, rather than less, with paler beers from now on.
Only negatives to this is more chance of introducing oxygen and infection, and it is thought you may not have enough yeast left for carbonation.... but I don;t think either of these is reason enough to not do it.
HTH
Chester draws said:
PositronicRay said:
Conditioning is a problem however. In the winter I use a spare room with the heating turned off, fairly consistent temp so this is okay. Summer however, I can't get a consistent temp anywhere. I'm using the cupboard under the stairs, but it's not ideal. Any tips? (Without going to the expense of a cellar)
Mine condition in the garage, do you have a friendly, (trustworthy) neighbour with a suitable space? Warehouse at workEdited by Chester draws on Thursday 12th May 10:57
However the temp doesn't seem to be consistent enough. On days like we've had recently it'll hit mid 20's during the day and then be down tp 10c at night.Just find an old fridge on gumtree, buy an stc1000 for £8.00 and a £12.00 tube heater, job done any temp you like cosistantly maintained, will enable you to lager too
)
I've got a garage, it doesn't get much sun either. However the temp doesn't seem to be consistent enough. On days like we've had recently it'll hit mid 20's during the day and then be down tp 10c at night.
)PositronicRay said:
Chester draws said:
PositronicRay said:
Conditioning is a problem however. In the winter I use a spare room with the heating turned off, fairly consistent temp so this is okay. Summer however, I can't get a consistent temp anywhere. I'm using the cupboard under the stairs, but it's not ideal. Any tips? (Without going to the expense of a cellar)
Mine condition in the garage, do you have a friendly, (trustworthy) neighbour with a suitable space? Warehouse at workEdited by Chester draws on Thursday 12th May 10:57
However the temp doesn't seem to be consistent enough. On days like we've had recently it'll hit mid 20's during the day and then be down tp 10c at night.marksx said:
Have a look at inkbird controllers also as an alternative to wiring an stc1000. They aren't expensive and heating elements and fridges can be plugged straight in.
Indeed, first brew fridge I built was with an STC-1000. By the time you've bought a box to put it in, couple of sockets, plug and wire you're looking at around £30 which incidentally is about what the Inkbird controller costs but you don't have to wire it up yourself. Consequently I've bought the Inkbird controller for fridge number 2.Got it from here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01DDEEOTC/ref...
PositronicRay said:
Don't fridges have a thermostat already?
No good if you want to hold the temperature at say 20 degrees though.An inkbird (or similar) will turn on the fridge if it gets too warm and turn on a heating element (tube heater mounted in the fridge etc) if it gets too cold.
That way you basically have an insulated temperature controlled fermentation, or conditioning chamber.
Hoonigan said:
Making it is half the fun....
Nice
marksx said:
No good if you want to hold the temperature at say 20 degrees though.
An inkbird (or similar) will turn on the fridge if it gets too warm and turn on a heating element (tube heater mounted in the fridge etc) if it gets too cold.
That way you basically have an insulated temperature controlled fermentation, or conditioning chamber.
Might sound stupid, but it never occurred to me to use a fridge to hold it at fermentation temperature! Other than the control unit, what else do you need to put that all together?An inkbird (or similar) will turn on the fridge if it gets too warm and turn on a heating element (tube heater mounted in the fridge etc) if it gets too cold.
That way you basically have an insulated temperature controlled fermentation, or conditioning chamber.
marksx said:
PositronicRay said:
Don't fridges have a thermostat already?
No good if you want to hold the temperature at say 20 degrees though.An inkbird (or similar) will turn on the fridge if it gets too warm and turn on a heating element (tube heater mounted in the fridge etc) if it gets too cold.
That way you basically have an insulated temperature controlled fermentation, or conditioning chamber.
Jonboy_t said:
Might sound stupid, but it never occurred to me to use a fridge to hold it at fermentation temperature! Other than the control unit, what else do you need to put that all together?
All I plan to do is find an old fridge, an inkbird controller and one of these:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hylite-1ft-Eco-Tube-Heate...
The inkbird: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inkbird-Temperature-Contr...
The fridge and the heater would plug into the inkbird. Set the temp on that and away you go.
There are loads of complicated builds, but I like to keep things simple!
If you didn't want to use a tube heater you could also have a heat mat or belt around the fermenter etc plugged in.
PositronicRay said:
Got it, just to keep it simple though I could stick a fridge in the garage for conditioning and keeping beer. Are many fridges big enough to fit a keg in?
Most standard fridges should fit a keg in easily. A tall one and you may be able to keep a couple of shelves for bottles too.craigthecoupe said:
i filled up to bang on 23 litres
If your using a standard FV with a stick on measurement strip then it's worth calibrating. Fill a measuring jug 23 times and see if the water level matches the measurement on the FV. It's a bit tedious but then you know the level is correct and you can be consistent with your brews. craigthecoupe said:
im bottling my youngs ipa tomorrow. has anybody got a suggestion for what to do next? i'd like something a bit lighter, more akin to a larger/lightly fizzy ale which will be more sessionable, and ready in time for summer.
anyone tried anything that fit the bill?
Try this, it's my own recipie, just substitute the grain for light malt extract, remove the 60 min addition and add some extra hops at 15min (start of boil) to match the IBU's. It's not exactly lager like, but light and hoppy... Nom nom nom anyone tried anything that fit the bill?
http://brewgr.com/recipe/18530/amarillo-cascade-am...
Edited by Hoonigan on Sunday 15th May 12:03
Edited by Hoonigan on Sunday 15th May 12:05
craigthecoupe said:
im bottling my youngs ipa tomorrow. has anybody got a suggestion for what to do next? i'd like something a bit lighter, more akin to a larger/lightly fizzy ale which will be more sessionable, and ready in time for summer.
anyone tried anything that fit the bill?
Woodfordes Sundew?anyone tried anything that fit the bill?
Brewed and bottled a Festival Landlords Finest kit over a month ago, went for a bottle last night and it was way over carbonated and smelt like the dentist. The brew seemed to go ok and got to its FG but I assume it's infected, will open another bottle tonight to check but I'm guessing it will all be the same.
Was looking forward to it too, just as I've ran out of porter
Was looking forward to it too, just as I've ran out of porter
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