Global Knife - Sharpening?
Discussion
21TonyK said:
Well, for £14 I thought I'd add this to my collection...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-Knife-Sharp...
I think I've pretty much covered all the bases now with various steels, sharpeners, diamonds and ceramics, multiple grades of stones, blade guides etc etc
Just to update... for the money it does a job. Quite what job that is depends on how careful you are using it.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-Knife-Sharp...
I think I've pretty much covered all the bases now with various steels, sharpeners, diamonds and ceramics, multiple grades of stones, blade guides etc etc
It could be a very easy way to destroy a good knife if you aren't careful. I used it to regrind an old knife that has been banging about in the bottom of a pan cupboard for years. It's back to being as sharp as any of my others.
It comes with a 180,400,800 and 1500 stone so I have ordered a 3000 and 6000 separately which should keep my two main knives in check.
Its the sort of thing you would use a few times a year when a knifes edge goes or it gets used to pry open tins
Other than that I'll stick to my diamond and ceramic "steels".
21TonyK said:
21TonyK said:
Well, for £14 I thought I'd add this to my collection...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-Knife-Sharp...
I think I've pretty much covered all the bases now with various steels, sharpeners, diamonds and ceramics, multiple grades of stones, blade guides etc etc
Just to update... for the money it does a job. Quite what job that is depends on how careful you are using it.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-Knife-Sharp...
I think I've pretty much covered all the bases now with various steels, sharpeners, diamonds and ceramics, multiple grades of stones, blade guides etc etc
It could be a very easy way to destroy a good knife if you aren't careful. I used it to regrind an old knife that has been banging about in the bottom of a pan cupboard for years. It's back to being as sharp as any of my others.
It comes with a 180,400,800 and 1500 stone so I have ordered a 3000 and 6000 separately which should keep my two main knives in check.
Its the sort of thing you would use a few times a year when a knifes edge goes or it gets used to pry open tins
Other than that I'll stick to my diamond and ceramic "steels".
Tony, where did you get the other 2 stones from? Do you have a link please?
S6PNJ said:
Yup, mine arrived yesterday - came in a 'nice'(?) camouflaged green 'canvas' case and as Tony says, it does the job reasonably well, if a little basic - but for £14, you can't go too far wrong! Having said that, it is now £16.98 so the price has gone up since Tony and I bought!
Tony, where did you get the other 2 stones from? Do you have a link please?
Take your pick...Tony, where did you get the other 2 stones from? Do you have a link please?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Grit-Knife-Sharpen...
I bought one of these back in 2010, still works perfectly. When my Globals need sharpening I run them through the sharpener three times and the knives once again cut cleanly.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blade-Tech-Bladetech-Tung...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blade-Tech-Bladetech-Tung...
That one is the one that I always seem to get sharpest.foxsasha said:
I bought one of these back in 2010, still works perfectly. When my Globals need sharpening I run them through the sharpener three times and the knives once again cut cleanly.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blade-Tech-Bladetech-Tung...
If you have used it numerous times then you will have effectively reground your globals to 45 degrees, or 22.5 either side. From the factory globals at 11.5 either side, a much shallower angle.https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blade-Tech-Bladetech-Tung...
Of course they will still cut at 45, that's what most European knives are manufactured at, but they are now not as originally intended.
Whether or not that matters is another question.
21TonyK said:
If you have used it numerous times then you will have effectively reground your globals to 45 degrees, or 22.5 either side. From the factory globals at 11.5 either side, a much shallower angle.
Of course they will still cut at 45, that's what most European knives are manufactured at, but they are now not as originally intended.
Whether or not that matters is another question.
Ah, interesting. Just been cooking dinner and used the sharpener again. Cuts just fine. My knives cut soft tomatoes without issue. How do you know if edge isn't optimal? Of course they will still cut at 45, that's what most European knives are manufactured at, but they are now not as originally intended.
Whether or not that matters is another question.
foxsasha said:
21TonyK said:
If you have used it numerous times then you will have effectively reground your globals to 45 degrees, or 22.5 either side. From the factory globals at 11.5 either side, a much shallower angle.
Of course they will still cut at 45, that's what most European knives are manufactured at, but they are now not as originally intended.
Whether or not that matters is another question.
Ah, interesting. Just been cooking dinner and used the sharpener again. Cuts just fine. My knives cut soft tomatoes without issue. How do you know if edge isn't optimal? Of course they will still cut at 45, that's what most European knives are manufactured at, but they are now not as originally intended.
Whether or not that matters is another question.
Japanese knives can have very specific (intended) uses right down to specific knives for specific fish etc.21TonyK said:
Not so much optimal but different knives, different steel, different uses etc At the end of the day its a knife and if its sharp that's it unless you intend to use a 10" Henkel for sashimi Japanese knives can have very specific (intended) uses right down to specific knives for specific fish etc.
With western-pattern Japanese knives, the real reason for the more acute bevel angle is "because you can." A more acute angle = a sharper, but more delicate edge. The harder steel in a Japanese knife means you can go a little bit more acute while retaining enough durability. If you tried taking a typical german blade to a the normal Japanese 15/15 degree (or smaller) bevel, it would be nice and sharp, but would get damaged too easily and would go blunt quickly. If you sharpen a Japanese knife to a 20/20 degree bevel, you trade off a little sharpness for better durability. Japanese knives can have very specific (intended) uses right down to specific knives for specific fish etc.We have a few nice Hattori knives that I keep sharpened to 15/15 degrees, and another cheaper Hiromoto carbon one sharpened to 20/20 for rougher use and carving (where there's bones to hit). Frankly, the difference in sharpness is pretty small, and I'd quite happily have the Hiromoto as an only knife.
The traditional Japanese sashimi knives have a single bevel of around 15-20 degrees (as opposed to 15 or 20 each side), which is why they are stupidly sharp but very delicate.
thelittleegg said:
Enjoyed that 
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