What to do as a rally service crewman?
Discussion
Hi guys,
My father is planning on competing in a 2 day rally in February in our car that we built, a Mini Cooper S. We did a couple of hillclimbs this year to get back into the swing of things, but they were all very low key relaxed affairs. I'd check the tyre pressures, warm the engine, give the car a quick rub down and wish him luck. Not set up changes or any changes really between runs just maybe drop the tyre pressures.
However, this is an International rally comprised of 15 stages over two days so it's going to be quite a bit more serious. So my question(s) is, what should I do or prepare for? How can I make life as easy as possible for the lads when they come into the service area? (Apart from the cup of tea and a few sandwiches that is!)
I assume just have the tools out and ready as well as the jack and axle stands? Spare parts? Any tips or tricks?
Obligtury picture!
My father is planning on competing in a 2 day rally in February in our car that we built, a Mini Cooper S. We did a couple of hillclimbs this year to get back into the swing of things, but they were all very low key relaxed affairs. I'd check the tyre pressures, warm the engine, give the car a quick rub down and wish him luck. Not set up changes or any changes really between runs just maybe drop the tyre pressures.
However, this is an International rally comprised of 15 stages over two days so it's going to be quite a bit more serious. So my question(s) is, what should I do or prepare for? How can I make life as easy as possible for the lads when they come into the service area? (Apart from the cup of tea and a few sandwiches that is!)
I assume just have the tools out and ready as well as the jack and axle stands? Spare parts? Any tips or tricks?
Obligtury picture!
Take lots of spray & paper towels for window cleaning.
Air filter.
Take plenty of oil. You can keep going with a broken ring or similar, if you keep topping up the oil.
Spare battery - I have got a car with a dead alternator through an event by swapping the battery for a charged one whenever we (the service crew) could meet them.
If you are refuelling, you will be surprised at the amount of jerry cans you may need.
I'm sure there's heaps more, that's just a couple of things off the top of my head.
Air filter.
Take plenty of oil. You can keep going with a broken ring or similar, if you keep topping up the oil.
Spare battery - I have got a car with a dead alternator through an event by swapping the battery for a charged one whenever we (the service crew) could meet them.
If you are refuelling, you will be surprised at the amount of jerry cans you may need.
I'm sure there's heaps more, that's just a couple of things off the top of my head.
That looks great fun. I've always fancied a go a navigating on a road rally. Anyhow, get this image printed life-size and put at the back of the service area. It'll make the driver feel very good!
baring a complete spare car, I would think about spares to get it to the finish: spare numberplates, lights, bulbs etc just in case he brushes the scenery. You dont want him stopping because the rear numberplate fell off. Also spare wheel nuts, just in case you dont do them up enough the first time...
baring a complete spare car, I would think about spares to get it to the finish: spare numberplates, lights, bulbs etc just in case he brushes the scenery. You dont want him stopping because the rear numberplate fell off. Also spare wheel nuts, just in case you dont do them up enough the first time...
Really depends on what sort of rally you are doing. If it is a single venue then servicing is fairly straight forward. You do your stage(s)go back to service and get ready for the next one. The event regulations/final instructions will tell you how long you have for service and where and when you can refuel. Lots of events have designated refuel areas. The big thing is to keep to the right times.
Edited by Drumroll on Thursday 29th December 06:46
A rally service is so much more than an F1 wheel change!
The pros have five mechanics, one on each wheel and one in the engine bay.
The wheels come off, not to change them (unless necessary) but for a complete spanner check, of all the suspension connections.
The underbonnet guy checks all fluids and connections there.
To do this, as you will have seen, the car goes up and sill stands go in, almost before the crew get out, as there may be only twenty minutes for the service.
So first, practise the service! PPPPPP.
Will you be the only mechanic? Recruit at least one more - you will need two to get the car up on axle stands quickly, unless you have built your Mini with sill stands. Or tell your Dad and his CoDriver they will have to help - it's not safe doing this quickly alone.
Work out a routine, front of car first, then back. Four minutes is a good time for car up, wheels off, on again and down, but it may take you ten at first, even with two of you. Remember - twenty minute service!
Do you have cordless impact gun(s) to get the wheels undone quickly?
Worth it for speed. But always torque them back on.
Lights. Will there be a night service? Lots of lights, a generator and some floods! Even day time, get the best cordless hand lights (Ring) with magnetic base, work out where to place them (practise)
Site. Where will the service take place? Under cover or in the open? Concrete/tarmac surface or grass? Prepare the surface, sweep and cover, with a suitable tarpaulin. You don't want to be covered in dust and dirt, or to be soaking wet from puddles. If grass, with some firm reinforcements to go under the jack and stands. Wide half-inch plywood boards.
Weather. Open air service? It is going to rain - I promise! Marquee to cover your service area, an easy-up, Halfords sell cheapies, as well as your tarpaulin. And waterproof overalls for you.
Oh, and practise! And, have fun!
Good luck!
John
The pros have five mechanics, one on each wheel and one in the engine bay.
The wheels come off, not to change them (unless necessary) but for a complete spanner check, of all the suspension connections.
The underbonnet guy checks all fluids and connections there.
To do this, as you will have seen, the car goes up and sill stands go in, almost before the crew get out, as there may be only twenty minutes for the service.
So first, practise the service! PPPPPP.
Will you be the only mechanic? Recruit at least one more - you will need two to get the car up on axle stands quickly, unless you have built your Mini with sill stands. Or tell your Dad and his CoDriver they will have to help - it's not safe doing this quickly alone.
Work out a routine, front of car first, then back. Four minutes is a good time for car up, wheels off, on again and down, but it may take you ten at first, even with two of you. Remember - twenty minute service!
Do you have cordless impact gun(s) to get the wheels undone quickly?
Worth it for speed. But always torque them back on.
Lights. Will there be a night service? Lots of lights, a generator and some floods! Even day time, get the best cordless hand lights (Ring) with magnetic base, work out where to place them (practise)
Site. Where will the service take place? Under cover or in the open? Concrete/tarmac surface or grass? Prepare the surface, sweep and cover, with a suitable tarpaulin. You don't want to be covered in dust and dirt, or to be soaking wet from puddles. If grass, with some firm reinforcements to go under the jack and stands. Wide half-inch plywood boards.
Weather. Open air service? It is going to rain - I promise! Marquee to cover your service area, an easy-up, Halfords sell cheapies, as well as your tarpaulin. And waterproof overalls for you.
Oh, and practise! And, have fun!
Good luck!
John
Edited by tapkaJohnD on Thursday 29th December 10:19
Head torch is worthwhile, even if servicing in daylight, gives you much better visibility under the car and anywhere else that's a bit dark and dingy. Having it on your head means you've got both hands free and the torch is pointing where you're looking.
Mark any nuts/bolts that are subject to working loose through vibration with a paint pen prior to the event so you can tell if something has loosened with a glance.
Blue roll, brake cleaner and IPA wipes to hand to clean up spillages/leaks and so you can see what you're doing on a mucky car.
As above, impact wrench for wheel changes speeds them up dramatically - I like to have an impact wrench, a socket on a loose extension and a torque wrench. Impact wrench to undo, socket on extension to start the nut back off by hand to avoid cross threading, impact wrench again to take up the mileage then torque wrench for final tighten. Sounds like a faff but makes wheel changes really speedy in practise. Also, tighten up in a cross pattern to make sure the wheel is going back on square to the hub.
Magnetic bowls attached to each axle stand to hold wheel nuts/bolts stops them wandering off in the mud.
Keep a jump pack or spare battery to hand, it's easy after a stage for lights & fans to be left on by accident and they'll drain a small battery pretty quickly.
If you have multiple wheel & tyre combos, keep them stacked together. Nothing more annoying when you're trying to do a speedy wheel change than discovering the one you need is at the bottom of a 12 wheel stack.
A fold up workbench - there's some on Amazon for £30-40 that are strong enough to take paddock abuse, they're good for keeping tools on, a work space and even a clamp on vice. Oh and brew making gear and biscuits of course.
Mark any nuts/bolts that are subject to working loose through vibration with a paint pen prior to the event so you can tell if something has loosened with a glance.
Blue roll, brake cleaner and IPA wipes to hand to clean up spillages/leaks and so you can see what you're doing on a mucky car.
As above, impact wrench for wheel changes speeds them up dramatically - I like to have an impact wrench, a socket on a loose extension and a torque wrench. Impact wrench to undo, socket on extension to start the nut back off by hand to avoid cross threading, impact wrench again to take up the mileage then torque wrench for final tighten. Sounds like a faff but makes wheel changes really speedy in practise. Also, tighten up in a cross pattern to make sure the wheel is going back on square to the hub.
Magnetic bowls attached to each axle stand to hold wheel nuts/bolts stops them wandering off in the mud.
Keep a jump pack or spare battery to hand, it's easy after a stage for lights & fans to be left on by accident and they'll drain a small battery pretty quickly.
If you have multiple wheel & tyre combos, keep them stacked together. Nothing more annoying when you're trying to do a speedy wheel change than discovering the one you need is at the bottom of a 12 wheel stack.
A fold up workbench - there's some on Amazon for £30-40 that are strong enough to take paddock abuse, they're good for keeping tools on, a work space and even a clamp on vice. Oh and brew making gear and biscuits of course.
My advice after several years competing is to take only wjat you need. Don't take unnecessary gear.
That said here's a list of essentials. There is repetition from the excellent replies so far.
Cordless impact wrench.
Torque wrench.
Paper towels on a roll (tork stuff).
Brake cleaner in a pump.
Easy bleed brake tool.
Nuts and bolts in their own case.
Gaffer tape.
Cable ties.
All fluids.
10 litres of clean water.
Aluminium jack (blue point do one for a decent price)
Jerry cans x 4 min.
Get some decent boxes with lids to keep spares in.
I have one for suspension/brakes bits and wheel nuts etc. Another for electrical bits, fittings, crimp tool, wire, throttle cables, windscreen wipers etc.
In the car it's handy to have a small tool roll with the basic spanners, couple of screw drivers, cable ties, roll of gaffer tape. Also very important is a tow rope. A long one. Spectators can perform a tug of war to extricate a car from ditch/hedge with one.
As far as servicing itself goes. Getting the car up on stands is first priority. Check the components over and perhaps put a spanner on everything. You can mark with pen, but sometimes everything gets a bit grubby. Just spanner check the important suspension linkages and have a general look over. Inspect brakes, make sure no pins missing for it to throw a pad.
Check oil and importantly fuel! My advise is to keep it well topped up. You won't be competitive enough to start with to be worrying about and extra 15kg of fuel.
Tyres wear and pressures.
As far as actual spares go, useful bits are:
Fuel pump
Starter motor
Alternator
Exhaust clamps/rubbers
Brake pads
Wipers
Rotor arm
Dizzy cap
Leads
Radiator
Brake cylinders.
Steering arms
TCA's
Etc
If you can't change it in 20 mins, generally don't bother taking it.
A really useful tool, although I confess I don't carry one but have borrowed one after crashing, is a porter pack. Hydraulic fingers that get in nooks and crannies and can push body work out where you can't swing a lump hammer.
Oh yeah, lump hammer. Take a lump hammer and hope you don't need it!
That said here's a list of essentials. There is repetition from the excellent replies so far.
Cordless impact wrench.
Torque wrench.
Paper towels on a roll (tork stuff).
Brake cleaner in a pump.
Easy bleed brake tool.
Nuts and bolts in their own case.
Gaffer tape.
Cable ties.
All fluids.
10 litres of clean water.
Aluminium jack (blue point do one for a decent price)
Jerry cans x 4 min.
Get some decent boxes with lids to keep spares in.
I have one for suspension/brakes bits and wheel nuts etc. Another for electrical bits, fittings, crimp tool, wire, throttle cables, windscreen wipers etc.
In the car it's handy to have a small tool roll with the basic spanners, couple of screw drivers, cable ties, roll of gaffer tape. Also very important is a tow rope. A long one. Spectators can perform a tug of war to extricate a car from ditch/hedge with one.
As far as servicing itself goes. Getting the car up on stands is first priority. Check the components over and perhaps put a spanner on everything. You can mark with pen, but sometimes everything gets a bit grubby. Just spanner check the important suspension linkages and have a general look over. Inspect brakes, make sure no pins missing for it to throw a pad.
Check oil and importantly fuel! My advise is to keep it well topped up. You won't be competitive enough to start with to be worrying about and extra 15kg of fuel.
Tyres wear and pressures.
As far as actual spares go, useful bits are:
Fuel pump
Starter motor
Alternator
Exhaust clamps/rubbers
Brake pads
Wipers
Rotor arm
Dizzy cap
Leads
Radiator
Brake cylinders.
Steering arms
TCA's
Etc
If you can't change it in 20 mins, generally don't bother taking it.
A really useful tool, although I confess I don't carry one but have borrowed one after crashing, is a porter pack. Hydraulic fingers that get in nooks and crannies and can push body work out where you can't swing a lump hammer.
Oh yeah, lump hammer. Take a lump hammer and hope you don't need it!
Gassing Station | UK Club Motorsport | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff