Discussion
Crafty,
I'm only an ameteur! Try this!
The diag shows the latches in the normally closed state, ie if either one is closed then your are right, power flows through the relay solenoid. However, I have attempted to show that the relay is working in the opposite way to what most use them for ie in this powered state the power to the ing circuit is NOT closed, ie no current to the IGN. It is only when both latches are in the OPEN state does the relay solenoid move to a 'rest' state and thus the ign circut is CLOSED and power flows to the main IGN circuit.
I did see the problem however and changed the Handbrake config.
If the Handbrake is ON then no power will flow through the solenoid, thus the IGN will be energised even with the clip disengaged.
If the handbrake is OFF however, and one or both latches are disengaged, then power to the soenoid is flowing and the Ign is OFF
...or that is what I am trying to portray!
Keith
I'm only an ameteur! Try this!
The diag shows the latches in the normally closed state, ie if either one is closed then your are right, power flows through the relay solenoid. However, I have attempted to show that the relay is working in the opposite way to what most use them for ie in this powered state the power to the ing circuit is NOT closed, ie no current to the IGN. It is only when both latches are in the OPEN state does the relay solenoid move to a 'rest' state and thus the ign circut is CLOSED and power flows to the main IGN circuit.
I did see the problem however and changed the Handbrake config.
If the Handbrake is ON then no power will flow through the solenoid, thus the IGN will be energised even with the clip disengaged.
If the handbrake is OFF however, and one or both latches are disengaged, then power to the soenoid is flowing and the Ign is OFF
...or that is what I am trying to portray!
Keith
maybe its possible to make hood-pins on top of the 2 tubes
and secure the rear clam extra with hood-pins like say this GT40
then no electrical stuff...only two holes in the clam, and there are many nice types secure plates also wich can be build in (then you have to cut bigger holes.
like those ore those with extra lock
and secure the rear clam extra with hood-pins like say this GT40
then no electrical stuff...only two holes in the clam, and there are many nice types secure plates also wich can be build in (then you have to cut bigger holes.
like those ore those with extra lock
ive thought of adding a central spring loaded pin that sits between the two seat head rests pointing backwards.. it would be easy to fit and would slide into a hole in the centre top part of the clip.. cheap, and you know its secured as its inside the car.
The best part is no external bodywork drilling or catches
I have no switches in my rear clip but always check the latches before i get in the car anyway, so never bothered.
Dom
The best part is no external bodywork drilling or catches
I have no switches in my rear clip but always check the latches before i get in the car anyway, so never bothered.
Dom
Edited by V8Dom on Friday 1st July 23:51
Steve_D said:
That will still allow ignition with only one latch closed.
Needs to pass through one latch and earth through the other.
Steve
Maybe I being stupid but I cannot see how! Needs to pass through one latch and earth through the other.
Steve
If the Latch circuit is normally closed (unlatched) it doesn't matter if one or the other is unlatched then power will flow through the solenoid circuit and thus the Ign will be OFF, that is, unless the Handbrake is ON! If the handbrake is ON, then no power can get to the Solenoid and thus the Ign circuit is energised!
It maybe you are think in that Ign is on if solenoid on, which is not the case.
???
Steve?
V8 Vum said:
Steve_D said:
That will still allow ignition with only one latch closed.
Needs to pass through one latch and earth through the other.
Steve
Maybe I being stupid but I cannot see how! Needs to pass through one latch and earth through the other.
Steve
If the Latch circuit is normally closed (unlatched) it doesn't matter if one or the other is unlatched then power will flow through the solenoid circuit and thus the Ign will be OFF, that is, unless the Handbrake is ON! If the handbrake is ON, then no power can get to the Solenoid and thus the Ign circuit is energised!
It maybe you are think in that Ign is on if solenoid on, which is not the case.
???
Steve?
Steve
Nobody thought of using the old style BMW hood system?
That's what I'm planning.
To open the hood, after opening the latches, you pull back and lift up the rearclam a bit, and at the front it slides into a hook. then you go to the side, slightly move the clam forward to pull it out of the hook. Cant go wrong with that one. The downforce at high speeds will prevent the clam to move up at the rear, and the hookmechanism will always catch the rearclam
Also I'm going to use these latches, they lock secure. Used them on the Le mans prototypes, and they never came off. They are a bit expensive, and maybe not everybodies taste.
That's what I'm planning.
To open the hood, after opening the latches, you pull back and lift up the rearclam a bit, and at the front it slides into a hook. then you go to the side, slightly move the clam forward to pull it out of the hook. Cant go wrong with that one. The downforce at high speeds will prevent the clam to move up at the rear, and the hookmechanism will always catch the rearclam
Also I'm going to use these latches, they lock secure. Used them on the Le mans prototypes, and they never came off. They are a bit expensive, and maybe not everybodies taste.
Sometimes is it not better to stick to the KISS system...that is:
Keep It Simple Stupid!
And having read all the posts on this thread it seems like most people want to over complicate things , the bike cut-out certainly is a more technical and sure fire way to stop you driving away with the rear clip not secured properly, but if you already have the optional warning LED's from the factory ( which this cut out system would rely on to make it work) then if one of them is lit, then just don't drive away before checking the latches. If you really feel you want to add a belt and braces system, then stick a buzzer onto the LED system which has already been suggested. It would be a 10 minute job and cost less than £5 for the bits from Maplins, then you get an audible warning in case you don't notice the lights. And If you still drive away with all that going off then if you ask me you deserve to have the rear clip come off.
Keep It Simple Stupid!
And having read all the posts on this thread it seems like most people want to over complicate things , the bike cut-out certainly is a more technical and sure fire way to stop you driving away with the rear clip not secured properly, but if you already have the optional warning LED's from the factory ( which this cut out system would rely on to make it work) then if one of them is lit, then just don't drive away before checking the latches. If you really feel you want to add a belt and braces system, then stick a buzzer onto the LED system which has already been suggested. It would be a 10 minute job and cost less than £5 for the bits from Maplins, then you get an audible warning in case you don't notice the lights. And If you still drive away with all that going off then if you ask me you deserve to have the rear clip come off.
This is what I'm likely to do. I've had the good fortune of having the builder/prior-owner of my GTR fit a pair of warning LED's that flash if the rear clam isn't properly latched, to the left of the steering wheel on the (LHD) dash. They can be a bit subtle so I am likely to fit a buzzer to them.
OTOH, ever since my flying days, I tend to do a 'walk around' with any reasonably high-performance machine I'm about to 'pilot'. I used to do a quick walk-around for each of my my motorcycles, and I do it for the Ford GT, the Ultima, and (in the morning) on my Porsche (it's a DD so I must admit that I don't do it every time I start it up - unlike the Ford/Ultima). It's really very quick and once programmed in to your brain, it's as obvious an item to omit as forgetting to buckle your seat belts.
One quick lap, check the clam (front and rear corners), tires (hard to tell but worth a look), center lock of the rear clam, leaves and paper in the air intake, cracks to the leading edge of the front clam, both fuel caps and drips, ground stains or weird odors and you're good to go.
OTOH, ever since my flying days, I tend to do a 'walk around' with any reasonably high-performance machine I'm about to 'pilot'. I used to do a quick walk-around for each of my my motorcycles, and I do it for the Ford GT, the Ultima, and (in the morning) on my Porsche (it's a DD so I must admit that I don't do it every time I start it up - unlike the Ford/Ultima). It's really very quick and once programmed in to your brain, it's as obvious an item to omit as forgetting to buckle your seat belts.
One quick lap, check the clam (front and rear corners), tires (hard to tell but worth a look), center lock of the rear clam, leaves and paper in the air intake, cracks to the leading edge of the front clam, both fuel caps and drips, ground stains or weird odors and you're good to go.
chucknorris said:
Sometimes is it not better to stick to the KISS system...that is:
Keep It Simple Stupid!
And having read all the posts on this thread it seems like most people want to over complicate things , the bike cut-out certainly is a more technical and sure fire way to stop you driving away with the rear clip not secured properly, but if you already have the optional warning LED's from the factory ( which this cut out system would rely on to make it work) then if one of them is lit, then just don't drive away before checking the latches. If you really feel you want to add a belt and braces system, then stick a buzzer onto the LED system which has already been suggested. It would be a 10 minute job and cost less than £5 for the bits from Maplins, then you get an audible warning in case you don't notice the lights. And If you still drive away with all that going off then if you ask me you deserve to have the rear clip come off.
Keep It Simple Stupid!
And having read all the posts on this thread it seems like most people want to over complicate things , the bike cut-out certainly is a more technical and sure fire way to stop you driving away with the rear clip not secured properly, but if you already have the optional warning LED's from the factory ( which this cut out system would rely on to make it work) then if one of them is lit, then just don't drive away before checking the latches. If you really feel you want to add a belt and braces system, then stick a buzzer onto the LED system which has already been suggested. It would be a 10 minute job and cost less than £5 for the bits from Maplins, then you get an audible warning in case you don't notice the lights. And If you still drive away with all that going off then if you ask me you deserve to have the rear clip come off.
GTRCLIVE said:
Under the KISS mantra make the clip pivot from the roof AKA Enzo F40 917..... then who cares if you don't latch it, unless you drive like Russ Swift in reverse all the time 
Thats not really KISS if you already have a car Clive, quick bit of body rejigging etc.I think Doms idea is good though. Simple mechanical albeit with a bit of reinforcing around the lock hole.
Steve_D said:
Which then defeats the object of having them when you drive off with the clip not latched.
Steve
But you have to reopen them since the hatch will not click in place ... it's like latching a side door of car when open .... it want close if you want open the latches.it will bounce open.Steve
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