Possible indicator controller with steering wheel cancel ?
Discussion
Being an ex Atom owner, I often pop in their forums for a look around.
Came across this interesting thread where someone has devised an indicator switch that can not only be programmed for short vs long indications, but also a Steering Wheel cancel function that looks pretty simple to setup.
Thought it might be useful for an Ultima that doesn't use stalks ?
Linky here :- http://forum.atomclub.com/index.php?topic=13252.0
Happy to point the OP this way if it helps anyone
Dave
Came across this interesting thread where someone has devised an indicator switch that can not only be programmed for short vs long indications, but also a Steering Wheel cancel function that looks pretty simple to setup.
Thought it might be useful for an Ultima that doesn't use stalks ?
Linky here :- http://forum.atomclub.com/index.php?topic=13252.0
Happy to point the OP this way if it helps anyone
Dave
Edited by TangoGTR on Sunday 4th December 14:15
TangoGTR said:
Linky here :- http://forum.atomclub.com/index.php?topic=13252.0
Update on original Atom thread, showing production unit below, plus video of unit being programmed. Follow link above
EddyP said:
Looks like a neat bit of kit, shame he hasn't incorporated a hazard light function from a single switch too though.
Hey Everyone,Dave pointed me to the thread over here about my turn signal controller-- thought I'd pop in and say hi.
I forgot to mention it in the other threads, but it *does* actually have a hazard function built in as well.
It's just a two-step operation: press the switch to either side until that signal turns on, then press to the opposite side and the other signal will come on (leaving both flashing in hazard marker mode). Hitting the switch again cancels the hazards.If anyone has pictures of what the underside of the Ultima's dash area looks like around the steering wheel (if they're fairly similar construction under there from car to car?) I might be able to make an Ultima specific sensor mount for it. Otherwise, I will just have a 'generic' mount for whatever you want to use it for.
havok1919 said:
Just for grins I went ahead and added a special "hazard" function to the program. Now if you press and hold the switch in either direction for more than two seconds it turns the hazards on. Pressing the switch again in any direction turns them off. Simple enough.
A picky IVA inspector will probably want a separate switch and may not be convinced by a label alongside one of the indicator buttons saying 'Press and hold for hazards'.The hazards must also operate without the ignition on.
Steve
I'll probably have the main circuit boards finished up this week. Cases and labels are done already.
Here's a question for you-- what would be best for you guys as far as how you'll mount the sensor? For the Atom 2 I have a little custom circuit board that bolts on to a particular spot near the steering wheel shaft and positions the sensor just right. The sensor itself is just a little three-legged electronic component, so it could either be mounted to a circuit board or have wires directly connected, etc. I was thinking of just having sort of a 'generic' circuit board that the sensor attaches to (to make it easy to handle) and then you can cut/shape/glue/grind/manipulate it in whatever manner makes sense for mounting in your cars.
(Just to recap-- the kit includes three small magnets that attach to your steering wheel shaft. One magnet marks the wheel position when the wheel is straight ahead and the other two mark how far you need to turn the wheel in order for the signal to 'cancel' when it comes back to the center. That way you can make it more or less sensitive to suit your needs just by where you put the magnets.)
The sensor just needs to be within maybe ~1cm or so of the magnets to be able to sense them as they pass by as the wheel is turned. The magnets are strong little suckers (neodymium) 8mm x 6mm x 1.5mm thick and nickle plated. You could use other magnets too-- I just selected these since they seemed small enough to be easy to mount and strong enough to work even from a distance.
Here's a question for you-- what would be best for you guys as far as how you'll mount the sensor? For the Atom 2 I have a little custom circuit board that bolts on to a particular spot near the steering wheel shaft and positions the sensor just right. The sensor itself is just a little three-legged electronic component, so it could either be mounted to a circuit board or have wires directly connected, etc. I was thinking of just having sort of a 'generic' circuit board that the sensor attaches to (to make it easy to handle) and then you can cut/shape/glue/grind/manipulate it in whatever manner makes sense for mounting in your cars.
(Just to recap-- the kit includes three small magnets that attach to your steering wheel shaft. One magnet marks the wheel position when the wheel is straight ahead and the other two mark how far you need to turn the wheel in order for the signal to 'cancel' when it comes back to the center. That way you can make it more or less sensitive to suit your needs just by where you put the magnets.)
The sensor just needs to be within maybe ~1cm or so of the magnets to be able to sense them as they pass by as the wheel is turned. The magnets are strong little suckers (neodymium) 8mm x 6mm x 1.5mm thick and nickle plated. You could use other magnets too-- I just selected these since they seemed small enough to be easy to mount and strong enough to work even from a distance.
havok1919 said:
....Here's a question for you-- what would be best for you guys as far as how you'll mount the sensor? .....
If the sensor component is designed to be mounted on a board then that would be the best solution to protect the terminations. Either a custom designed board with some tracks coming away to a wire termination point or just supply an oversized piece of Vero board and an instruction sheet.Steve
Stalks are neat in the Ultima, because all of the muscle memory for turn signals, headlights, high and low, dim and flash are in the same spot as your normal road car. When you come around a bend and you meet a car there's no delay in caneling the hi beams ect. i suggest that this is a consideration before going back to switchs on the dash. Lee
ROWDYRENAULT said:
Stalks are neat in the Ultima, because all of the muscle memory for turn signals, headlights, high and low, dim and flash are in the same spot as your normal road car. When you come around a bend and you meet a car there's no delay in caneling the hi beams ect. i suggest that this is a consideration before going back to switchs on the dash. Lee
I don't understand why some creative and enterprising soul hasn't already developed a turn stalk for the Ultima in all these years. And I don't mean the "go to the junk yard and cobble some parts" stuff...I'm talking true plug and play. There's gotta be a market for those things. Heck....I'll buy one whenever it's available.This is my solution. I have swapped a small circuit-board (own design) which is simply clicked into place.
The board has eight solder contacts for:
1) +12 V
Outputs:
2) Indicator left
3) Indicator right
4) Fog
5) Sidelight
6) Low beam
7) High beam
8) Flasher
Steering wheel canceling could be realized relatively simply by attaching a small angle to the hub.
Mounted stalk
[url]
Left PCB (original) swapped against the right one.
|http://thumbsnap.com/ZHZIev32[/url]
The board has eight solder contacts for:
1) +12 V
Outputs:
2) Indicator left
3) Indicator right
4) Fog
5) Sidelight
6) Low beam
7) High beam
8) Flasher
Steering wheel canceling could be realized relatively simply by attaching a small angle to the hub.
Mounted stalk
[url]Left PCB (original) swapped against the right one.
|http://thumbsnap.com/ZHZIev32[/url]UltimaCH said:
Try AB
Funny thing is I keep hearing peeps say try Auto Bionics, but I've YET to see a product. I can't even find one on their website. I'm beginning to believe it's a ghost product.AndreasW said:
This is my solution. I have swapped a small circuit-board (own design) which is simply clicked into place.
The board has eight solder contacts for:
1) +12 V
Outputs:
2) Indicator left
3) Indicator right
4) Fog
5) Sidelight
6) Low beam
7) High beam
8) Flasher
Dude...you're a frikin genius! That's a great solution but one I couldn't manage. LOL! I need plug and play or at least something that doesn't require too much fabrication. The board has eight solder contacts for:
1) +12 V
Outputs:
2) Indicator left
3) Indicator right
4) Fog
5) Sidelight
6) Low beam
7) High beam
8) Flasher
LSX Fan said:
Funny thing is I keep hearing peeps say try Auto Bionics, but I've YET to see a product. I can't even find one on their website. I'm beginning to believe it's a ghost product.
Very unfair comment, have you picked up the phone and spoken to the lads? My AB stalks are in fabrication at the moment 
AB don't actually market them, they're strickly a by enquiry product, due to the options available and the time taken to build them. Each set is completly custom, like a lot of their products which are generally one-offs.If you want to see what a set look like, go back to their website and look at the yellow Can Am "Project" car. Better still, call them.
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