Newbie Gremlins

Newbie Gremlins

Author
Discussion

Nabbott

Original Poster:

294 posts

136 months

Tuesday 3rd June 2014
quotequote all
Inching perilously close now:



To get me here I've replaced the battery, starter motor, alternator (inc. different mounting position and bracketry), re-furbed and wrapped the exhausts, replaced the dizzy cap, rotor and leads, installed MAP vacuum sensors to the throttle bodies, installed a fuel pressure gauge, binned the custom air-filter box and modified to suit air filters on each pair of stacks, and had the stacks anodized (although the 2 oranges don't match), coolant drain and fill and g/box and engine oil change....



Fingers crossed it starts....

ROWDYRENAULT

1,270 posts

214 months

Tuesday 3rd June 2014
quotequote all
Nigel I can not tell in the pictures if the headers are coated with ceramic materiel. If they are you do not want to wrap them, at least not in my experience. I did this very thing on my Renault R5 TURBO headers and in short order I found all this "sand " in my engine compartment. yEP that was the coating falling off the headers. Now this could be specific to the R5 Turbo because of the elevated temp the exhaust temp runs at, or it could be the specific coating I used. Lee

Nabbott

Original Poster:

294 posts

136 months

Tuesday 3rd June 2014
quotequote all
Thanks Lee - no they aren't ceramic coated (which is the principle reason I wrapped them). I will replace the exhaust in the winter as it's a fairly crude mild steel system.

spatz

1,783 posts

186 months

Wednesday 4th June 2014
quotequote all
that is an interesting setup, so you are running fuel injection but spark control from the old style distributor ?
Have you installed a map sensor on every throttle body ?????

Nabbott

Original Poster:

294 posts

136 months

Wednesday 4th June 2014
quotequote all
Yes - was advised to do so to 'even' out the signal. The car has a Motec M48 ECU, which i've yet to start 'playing with' as I'm waiting on the last fitting that will also connect the MAP circuit to the fuel pressure regulator.

UltimaCH

3,155 posts

189 months

Wednesday 4th June 2014
quotequote all
Nabbott said:


Nigel, where have gone the photos..... confused

UltimaCH

3,155 posts

189 months

Wednesday 4th June 2014
quotequote all
Nabbott said:
Inching perilously close now:

I imagine that you can expect some interesting intake noises behind your ears biggrin

cooberpedy

87 posts

153 months

Wednesday 4th June 2014
quotequote all
Lovely engine bay!

Do you have some kind of trumpet socks over the stacks? Would love to see a picture with the airfilters installed, as i also intend to have a filter on each stack.

pardon me, but you really have been advised to install a map sensor on each throttle bodyconfused what a BS....eek (i presume the advisor sold the 8 sensors to you....)
Are you forced to run map as load by some kind of specific circumstances or why you didn't use alpha and a barometric pressure compensation?

Nabbott

Original Poster:

294 posts

136 months

Wednesday 4th June 2014
quotequote all
So the filter covers arrived today but are wrong frown. I'm having to reposition the stacks 5degrees outwards with new clamps to get clearance as with 23 degree heads the trumpets are too close together frown

So I'll be honest, this is the first time I've monkeyed around with fuel injection and it's quite a learning curve. Concensus drawn from various quarters leads me to believe that MAPing each throttle is best practice (if expensive).... As to the setup it self I've yet to open up the Motec ECU so have no idea what inputs it's using or requiring BUT the map sensor was wired into the loom just not connected to anything...... Still waiting to hear back from Mr Motec regards a proper tune/rolling road session which will be on the cards when I get this all completed.

ROWDYRENAULT

1,270 posts

214 months

Wednesday 4th June 2014
quotequote all
I agree with the statement above. I have run an Kinsler I.R. manifold on my L.S. for the last 5 years with a Motec M800 without individual map sensors and it runs great. No surge at low speed at all, nice steady idle. You do need to go in from time to time and sycn the throttle bodies from side to side first and then the individual throttle bodies, but this is easily done with a Unisync tool. Lee

Nabbott

Original Poster:

294 posts

136 months

Thursday 5th June 2014
quotequote all
Thanks Lee. Funnily enough my last order I picked up the UNI Syn tool smile

Nabbott

Original Poster:

294 posts

136 months

Friday 22nd August 2014
quotequote all
cooberpedy said:
Lovely engine bay!

Do you have some kind of trumpet socks over the stacks? Would love to see a picture with the airfilters installed, as i also intend to have a filter on each stack.

pardon me, but you really have been advised to install a map sensor on each throttle bodyconfused what a BS....eek (i presume the advisor sold the 8 sensors to you....)
Are you forced to run map as load by some kind of specific circumstances or why you didn't use alpha and a barometric pressure compensation?
I had to wait for my 'parts mule' to return from the US - and thus the completed installation along with 5 degree offset clamps and siamised triple screen filters.....


confusionhunter

448 posts

222 months

Friday 22nd August 2014
quotequote all
looking good sir!!!
I to am ironing out a few set up issues with a low milage can am! Im in the midst of making a soft top like Krunchers but with my own clamping mechanism. I've also ordered an aeroscreen smile I'm noticing with interest what looks to be a ply screen around your roll cage...... I'll be very interested in the end result! I too have some heat management issues! Your post about heat reflective material makes a bit more sens now Ive read this thread!

Nabbott

Original Poster:

294 posts

136 months

Monday 25th August 2014
quotequote all
So I know for a fact that i'm suffering a cabin vacuum at speed (the first 'giveaway' being that the side bin tops were being sucked off their velcro at around 80 mph!). I'm pursuing 4 different routes/fixes having already unplumbed the heater in it's entirety!:

1) Mock up of the MDF screen to validate that it is hot air being sucked into the cabin (which it proved!)
2) Fitting side scoops (done)
3) Positively pressurize the cabin with air vents from the front clam (done - see separate thread)
4) Have a new cover made to accommodate my Kinsler fuel injection. Given the length of the venturis my rear clam had to be modified with a large hole...... Whilst the clam is being repaired i'm having the guy make a new 'scoop' to cover the air intakes.

I suspect that any of the first 3 (or a combination of all 3!) will largely eradicate the issue of cabin temperatures when the car is driving (not much can be done when stationary short of AC). I'm doing the 4th as the hole in the rear clam (whilst beautifully cut out) looks a bit 'kit car' (in a bad way).

Notwithstanding whilst the clam is away (due back soon) i've popped the gearbox out to fix the leaking main seal - so can't test out my theory/progress. Fingers crossed. smile

Nabbott

Original Poster:

294 posts

136 months

Monday 25th August 2014
quotequote all
confusionhunter said:
looking good sir!!!
I to am ironing out a few set up issues with a low milage can am! Im in the midst of making a soft top like Krunchers but with my own clamping mechanism. I've also ordered an aeroscreen smile I'm noticing with interest what looks to be a ply screen around your roll cage...... I'll be very interested in the end result! I too have some heat management issues! Your post about heat reflective material makes a bit more sens now Ive read this thread!
BTW - when we drove the car with the temporary MDF screen it did solve engine heat being sucked into the cabin BUT at the expense of drover/passenger comfort! The amount of buffeting at motorway speed was uncomfortable - so i'm hoping i can get away without running one....

UltimaCH

3,155 posts

189 months

Monday 25th August 2014
quotequote all
Looking forward to more updates when available.
I'm also thinking of plumbing something to get fresh air into the cockpit from the front.

Nabbott

Original Poster:

294 posts

136 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
So with the rear clam repaired we move onto the new 'scoop'.

These are shots of the inner skin. I'll be picking the clam up in the next few days to check the clearances on the inner, before we complete it and move to the outer:




Nabbott

Original Poster:

294 posts

136 months

Friday 26th September 2014
quotequote all
So just finished the last round of fettling and took it for a fill up. Am happy to report that the fresh air vents make a MASSIVE difference to cabin temperatures (it's now actually bearable). For anyone following that mod it's well worth it and CHEAP (more 'efficient than adding AC retrospectively too IMHO)

Too early to say if the scoops help with engine temp.... but they look LUSH smile

I HAVE just to sort out the sump pan oil leak (not so much as a leak as a torrent) and have ordered a new gasket set, despite the dry sump fabricator telling me these are not necessary. A PITA - especially as this was a problem mostly of my own making!

Am working with my glass fibre guy on filling in the hole in the rear clam, although the scoop will have to be MAX POWER size to accommodate the throttles. Hopefully more on that soon.


[pic]URL=http://imgbox.com/SELieVRB][/URL[pic]

Edited by Nabbott on Friday 26th September 14:39

Nabbott

Original Poster:

294 posts

136 months

Thursday 9th October 2014
quotequote all
So inner skin of the new cowl.... resembles a 1970's breadbin!


ROWDYRENAULT

1,270 posts

214 months

Thursday 9th October 2014
quotequote all
Nabbot you certainly appear to be mechanically gifted so my question is why the dizzy? Throw that thing in a museum put a crank sensor on the main pulley and let that M48 earn its keep. Screw a bunch of points, caps, ect . Project is looking great. Lee