Uprated Aluminium Radiator
Discussion
ROWDYRENAULT said:
Also I believe that ceramic coated headers would be a factor in putting more heat out the tail instead of into the engine bay.
I use a company called Swain here in the States, they have a ceramic coating called white lightning that I have put on three cars now.Edited by ROWDYRENAULT on Sunday 31st August 17:30
It dramaticly reduces under hood temps and saves a burnt arm/leg or two.
About three minutes after shot down on a 427 cobra you can grab the pipes, warm but no burn.
Rscocca said:
I use a company called Swain here in the States, they have a ceramic coating called white lightning that I have put on three cars now.
It dramaticly reduces under hood temps and saves a burnt arm/leg or two.
About three minutes after shot down on a 427 cobra you can grab the pipes, warm but no burn]
I did it too, my Fac.Five, but it chips off the pipes(silver). I have "snakebites" on my ankles. Maybe a bad application or inferior product. I also did the aluminum engine bay & trunk, these are great & look new and I can actually polish it.It dramaticly reduces under hood temps and saves a burnt arm/leg or two.
About three minutes after shot down on a 427 cobra you can grab the pipes, warm but no burn]
How's the project ??? haven't seen any posts on your Ultima
Mike San Clemente ca
F.C. said:
V8Dom said:
Charles Dunn has now fitted a very clever switch on the throttle and i can now have 1000 rpm idle both aircon and non aircon and temp now normal. aircon on also increases idle temps alot.
dom
Your engine management should take care of any parasitic loads, air con, rad fans running etc. You shouldn't need an extra switch to sort engine idle. dom
Does someone have pictures of the latest greatest rad fan installation?
The other thing I noticed is that the front clam opening for the exit from the rad doesn't line up with the rad (the clam opening is quite a bit smaller). In addition there large holes at the side of the exit duct which "vent" into the wheel well. All in all it doesn't strike me as very efficient.
Does some have a ideas for a better installation (again picture would be a help)?
The other thing I noticed is that the front clam opening for the exit from the rad doesn't line up with the rad (the clam opening is quite a bit smaller). In addition there large holes at the side of the exit duct which "vent" into the wheel well. All in all it doesn't strike me as very efficient.
Does some have a ideas for a better installation (again picture would be a help)?
Rscocca said:
One of the modifications I did was to add a shroud and change the fans to Spal fans with a controller that regulates when fans come on. In stop and go traffic 95+ degree F days engine never saw above 209F
This is a neat solution that will utilise all of the rad in slow moving traffic.I for one will be putting this on my list of mods.
Interesting discussion. I AS 730HP engine.
Indeed, I had problems with overheating at high outside temperatures. I installed coolers radtec / perfect / and added the third front fan is controlled manually. When the fluid temperature exceeds 100s C run it. The drop in temperature is an instant about 10sC. Any problems from this moment. Simple and without doing a doctorate from the cooling system. Greetings to all
georg
Indeed, I had problems with overheating at high outside temperatures. I installed coolers radtec / perfect / and added the third front fan is controlled manually. When the fluid temperature exceeds 100s C run it. The drop in temperature is an instant about 10sC. Any problems from this moment. Simple and without doing a doctorate from the cooling system. Greetings to all
georg
georg said:
Interesting discussion. I AS 730HP engine.
Indeed, I had problems with overheating at high outside temperatures. I installed coolers radtec / perfect / and added the third front fan is controlled manually. When the fluid temperature exceeds 100s C run it. The drop in temperature is an instant about 10sC. Any problems from this moment. Simple and without doing a doctorate from the cooling system. Greetings to all
georg
Is the extra fan pulling or pushing air through the radiator? Indeed, I had problems with overheating at high outside temperatures. I installed coolers radtec / perfect / and added the third front fan is controlled manually. When the fluid temperature exceeds 100s C run it. The drop in temperature is an instant about 10sC. Any problems from this moment. Simple and without doing a doctorate from the cooling system. Greetings to all
georg
obviously pushing !!!
An excellent result. Located right in the center of the radiator.
You could connect the main fans, but I do while driving I like to control the situation. In 2016 I drove Glosglockner, Stelvio, Italy -Central and Croatia. No trouble with the temperature.
Good luck does not run the risk of high costs of modernization.
Georg
An excellent result. Located right in the center of the radiator.
You could connect the main fans, but I do while driving I like to control the situation. In 2016 I drove Glosglockner, Stelvio, Italy -Central and Croatia. No trouble with the temperature.
Good luck does not run the risk of high costs of modernization.
Georg
georg said:
obviously pushing !!!
An excellent result. Located right in the center of the radiator.
You could connect the main fans, but I do while driving I like to control the situation. In 2016 I drove Glosglockner, Stelvio, Italy -Central and Croatia. No trouble with the temperature.
Good luck does not run the risk of high costs of modernization.
Georg
Hello Georg, I have an OT for you:An excellent result. Located right in the center of the radiator.
You could connect the main fans, but I do while driving I like to control the situation. In 2016 I drove Glosglockner, Stelvio, Italy -Central and Croatia. No trouble with the temperature.
Good luck does not run the risk of high costs of modernization.
Georg
I live 100 miles from Stelvio, I looking for a trip there but I'm not sure Ultima can go through Stelvio road bends. Do you had issuses?
Thanks!
Hi
Three times defeated Stelvio. Once Corvette ZR1 very low 6cm distance from the ground. The second time Ariel Atom / without problems / and now Ultima. Of course it is a problem because it is part of my cornering safety pins exceptionally tight. Besides, even though the path leads uphill to the same corner on the right that the move is raised to the top. And here is the problem. In this case, I engage with the side edge of the vehicle approximately in the central part .. If the opposite is going campobus problem is even greater on a straight road but not only in turn.
I think there is less of a problem for access to the Stelvio from the BORMIO. With less congestion can be overcome without a loss in the body.
Regards
Georg
Three times defeated Stelvio. Once Corvette ZR1 very low 6cm distance from the ground. The second time Ariel Atom / without problems / and now Ultima. Of course it is a problem because it is part of my cornering safety pins exceptionally tight. Besides, even though the path leads uphill to the same corner on the right that the move is raised to the top. And here is the problem. In this case, I engage with the side edge of the vehicle approximately in the central part .. If the opposite is going campobus problem is even greater on a straight road but not only in turn.
I think there is less of a problem for access to the Stelvio from the BORMIO. With less congestion can be overcome without a loss in the body.
Regards
Georg
Best fix for running hot is not a new radiator, pump or fans, its Evans waterless solves 90% of the problems. I use it in all my vintage cars. It's boil point is 375 so you aren't going to boil over. check it out http://www.evanscoolant.com
crossram said:
Best fix for running hot is not a new radiator, pump or fans, its Evans waterless solves 90% of the problems. I use it in all my vintage cars. It's boil point is 375 so you aren't going to boil over. check it out http://www.evanscoolant.com
Waterless may not boil over but you WILL run higher stabilised temperatures compared to water.Specific heat capacity of waterless is around 0.64 in other words about half that of water.
If this stuff were any good it would be used by OEM as standard.
I'm not sure why the major guys don't use it my guess is that when they go into jiffy lube the guy would top the rad off and ruin the Evans. You can only have 2% water. A lot of Big rigs run it too and you only put it in once for the lifetime of the engine. plus you don't have that constant pressure on the system.
so do you run straight water in your cars?
so do you run straight water in your cars?
F.C. said:
Waterless may not boil over but you WILL run higher stabilised temperatures compared to water.
Specific heat capacity of waterless is around 0.64 in other words about half that of water.
If this stuff were any good it would be used by OEM as standard.
Specific heat capacity of waterless is around 0.64 in other words about half that of water.
If this stuff were any good it would be used by OEM as standard.
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