Canam windbreak/deflector

[Nabbott]

So have messed around with a bit of old MDF, prototyping a design for a wind deflector. This appears to have solved my issue of heat 'wash' tumbling into the cabin.

Would appreciate any ideas people have around fixing it to the roll bar though - not entirely convinced by the stainless P-Clips (even if they have rubber sleeves!)

[UltimaCH]

Perhaps a couple of small tabs welded to the rollbar and the deflector bolted to the tabs should be sufficient.

[Abbosevolution]

UltimaCH said:

Perhaps a couple of small tabs welded to the rollbar and the deflector bolted to the tabs should be sufficient.

I agree with Daniel -get it sorted Satsuma boy

[Nabbott]

My first thought was tabs on the roll bar BUT I don't want to break the powder coat finish as I'd end up having to paint it and it would never look uniform.

Try again Abbsoblution & don't bring your shoddy advice to my serious questions )))))))

[andygtt]

drill and tap the roll cage and fasten black tabs to hold the perspex... the roof drills into the roll bar as its more than 2mm tube, pick a fine thread to tap with, doesn't have to hold much weight and nice stainless or black allen key bolts wouldn't look out of place.

[Abbosevolution]

Nabbott said:

My first thought was tabs on the roll bar BUT I don't want to break the powder coat finish as I'd end up having to paint it and it would never look uniform.

Try again Abbsoblution & don't bring your shoddy advice to my serious questions )))))))

Cheap skate - should have gone for Aircon - always available to provide shoddy advice for those challenged in the solutions arena eg oil leak and hot air to name but two

When's the next shoddy brainstorming exercise - I suggest mine w/b 15th - bacon & egg sarnies to aid your thought ? process

[Nabbott]

andygtt said:

drill and tap the roll cage and fasten black tabs to hold the perspex... the roof drills into the roll bar as its more than 2mm tube, pick a fine thread to tap with, doesn't have to hold much weight and nice stainless or black allen key bolts wouldn't look out of place.

That is a FINE idea - THANKS!

[BogBeast]

Nabbott said:

andygtt said:

drill and tap the roll cage and fasten black tabs to hold the perspex... the roof drills into the roll bar as its more than 2mm tube, pick a fine thread to tap with, doesn't have to hold much weight and nice stainless or black allen key bolts wouldn't look out of place.

That is a FINE idea - THANKS!

If you find you run out of meat to tap into, then put a rivnut in.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6mm-STAINLESS-STEEL-COUN...

I have used stainless ones all over mine.

[UltimaCH]

Another idea. Why not use some velco? That way no holes in the metal and if not suitable it can be cleaned from the roll bar. No? Well

[The Italian]

I like the riv-nuts idea, on the inside of the roll bar, not the back.
Have you tried this w/o the large holes?
The turbulence in the cockpit may push the air over the top
or
don't go all the way up to the roll bar, leave a small space all around if you need air relief
instead of holes.
If that works I would use tempered glass sitting on a nice rubber seal.
The holes look a little FXX K like. We can say that now.

Edited by The Italian on Tuesday 9th December 00:53

[F.C.]

Nabbott said:

So have messed around with a bit of old MDF, prototyping a design for a wind deflector. This appears to have solved my issue of heat 'wash' tumbling into the cabin.

Would appreciate any ideas people have around fixing it to the roll bar though - not entirely convinced by the stainless P-Clips (even if they have rubber sleeves!)

Something along these lines would be less invasive and completely reversible.
They come in sizes from 1 1/2" to 3"

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2Inch-PAIR-Bullbar-Mount...

[Abbosevolution]

F.C. said:

Something along these lines would be less invasive and completely reversible.
They come in sizes from 1 1/2" to 3"

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2Inch-PAIR-Bullbar-Mount...

[Racing Roj]

Morning Stevo
I used rivnuts on my tubular steel framed Radical and they worked great. If you put them on the underside you would hardly see them. I think RS Components do a kit including a tool for installing.
Roj

[Abbosevolution]

Racing Roj said:

Morning Stevo
I used rivnuts on my tubular steel framed Radical and they worked great. If you put them on the underside you would hardly see them. I think RS Components do a kit including a tool for installing.
Roj

Hi Roj - hope alls well - have used rivnuts in a number of locations, specifically the swirl pot and header rank mounts and they work well - think fc's solution being non-permanent the easiest way to go - with rivnuts an alternative - just needs Nigel to stop galavanting off to Italy and get it sorted

[confusionhunter]

Ooooo, did you find the holes neccesary to reduce the buffeting? Ithought when you tried it before the extra buffeting outweighed the benefit of no heat wash?

[Nabbott]

confusionhunter said:

Ooooo, did you find the holes neccesary to reduce the buffeting? Ithought when you tried it before the extra buffeting outweighed the benefit of no heat wash?

So the holes completely eradicate the buffeting and the deflector solves the heat wash. Win/win!

[drunyon]

Hi Nabbott, I’m Don,
By all the ribbing it seems like you are well loved.
Which is a good thing in any camp fire.
I’m also building a Can Am and have pondered the heat wave issue. Looks like you have a remedy.
The rivnut suggestion, plus a threaded clevis with rubber washers for the attach bolts just may be the ticket.
I found these items which would require a threaded stud (1/4-20), and a little rat tail file work to fit and fair to the roll bar. . http://dragonplate.com/ecart/product.asp?pID=5690&...
The clevis method would leave a gap around the periphery of the glass. I’m wondering if this method would substitute for all the holes?

[confusionhunter]

Nabbott said:

So the holes completely eradicate the buffeting and the deflector solves the heat wash. Win/win!

Amazing research matey! 4mm lexan??
Obviously no good for a car with an aero screen but heat wash wont be so much of an issue there. Something else I might try first is sealing off the air filter area from the rest of the bay so no heat from the headers gets out, that with some side scoops i think might help the situation too.

[Storer]

Beware of drilling holes in the roll bar especially larger than the 3.2mm rivet holes.

In a Can-Am this is your only protection in the event of the car rolling over. Weakening it is not a good idea.


Paul

[Nabbott]

confusionhunter said:

Amazing research matey! 4mm lexan??

No - just plain ole' clear perspex (they had Orange which I very nearly went for). It must be said though, I suspect that my heat wash is made infinitely worse due to the hole in the rear clip to accommodate the throttle bodies. You may get away without any at all if you leave the bodywork standard.......