Has anybody fitted 19" wheels ?
Discussion
Mjpmark said:
Best upgrade I ever made. 19's front. 20's rear.
No modifications were required, didn't rub or catch.
I drove several ultima's, Didn't drive any different in my opinion. Go with what YOU prefer. It's your car after all.
Pm me if you need to know anything.
No disrespect but the mods you made or those that were made to your car weren't exactly great were they, it didn't turn out how you expected, is that fair to say? If you can't tell the difference between a car with 18 and 20" wheels then the car with 18" wheels isn't set up right. No modifications were required, didn't rub or catch.
I drove several ultima's, Didn't drive any different in my opinion. Go with what YOU prefer. It's your car after all.
Pm me if you need to know anything.
But each to their own, quite why you'd want 20"wheels on a 1000kg car I don't know other than wanting a showcar look.
hy, not meant to be.
There is a chain of thought that suggests that going for 19" rears but reducing their width from 335 to either 295 or 315 has some benefits in the bump steer department.
If you watch the Monkey (Chris Harris) video of the McLaren P1 you will hear their attitude to very wide rear tyres and their effects on bump steer/tramlining.
I would probably stick with 18" fronts though.
All IMO of course.
Paul
If you watch the Monkey (Chris Harris) video of the McLaren P1 you will hear their attitude to very wide rear tyres and their effects on bump steer/tramlining.
I would probably stick with 18" fronts though.
All IMO of course.
Paul
It's all about aspect ratios and contact patch (leaving inertia etc. aside).
You'll need to study very carefully if you want to maintain "factory" spec effective rolling radius.
for instance fitting a wider tyre with the same aspect ratio as the thinner being replaced doesn't guarantee a bigger contact patch at all, also consider the shape of the contact patch, this determines braking pressure/balance and traction, there are a lot of other factors to consider before jumping into bigger rims.
A taller wheel would mean (if trying to maintain std. rolling radius)a smaller aspect ratio, which means less sidewall which will in turn affect compliance, the car may feel sharper in the dry but will be less forgiving on damp or wet roads due to stiffer tire wall = less flex.
There's a lot of info on the web.
Choose wisely!
You'll need to study very carefully if you want to maintain "factory" spec effective rolling radius.
for instance fitting a wider tyre with the same aspect ratio as the thinner being replaced doesn't guarantee a bigger contact patch at all, also consider the shape of the contact patch, this determines braking pressure/balance and traction, there are a lot of other factors to consider before jumping into bigger rims.
A taller wheel would mean (if trying to maintain std. rolling radius)a smaller aspect ratio, which means less sidewall which will in turn affect compliance, the car may feel sharper in the dry but will be less forgiving on damp or wet roads due to stiffer tire wall = less flex.
There's a lot of info on the web.
Choose wisely!
Plus the bigger you go the more you're moving a proportion of rotational masses very much in the wrong direction for a light car and it will make any flaws in bum steer for example more prominent.
I don't disagree entirely with Mark that there aren't any differences between 19s and 18s, certainly at lower speeds and on smooth roads it may be difficult to detect. But up the speed, and its harder to maintain good control the larger the rotational masses you have. So if you're set on this size, get as light as possible, unless it'll never get driven fast and you're doing it more for show.
I don't disagree entirely with Mark that there aren't any differences between 19s and 18s, certainly at lower speeds and on smooth roads it may be difficult to detect. But up the speed, and its harder to maintain good control the larger the rotational masses you have. So if you're set on this size, get as light as possible, unless it'll never get driven fast and you're doing it more for show.
Also consider.
I had the "show wheels" on the car for road use, (hated the dated look of the originals) looked nice had the effect I desired.
But lets not forget I also had a set of factory standard rims for track use and a custom set of 18's from Image wheels.
It depends on your budget, if like me you can afford it then there really isn't a decision you can have both looks/application whether you need them is down to the way you drive and what you expect from the car. But please buy the wheels that you personally like. Just use the information posted on the forum as a contributing factor to your decision.
I had the "show wheels" on the car for road use, (hated the dated look of the originals) looked nice had the effect I desired.
But lets not forget I also had a set of factory standard rims for track use and a custom set of 18's from Image wheels.
It depends on your budget, if like me you can afford it then there really isn't a decision you can have both looks/application whether you need them is down to the way you drive and what you expect from the car. But please buy the wheels that you personally like. Just use the information posted on the forum as a contributing factor to your decision.
I Have 19's on the rear and went narrower, kept 18's on the front and went wider.
Initially on my full set of 18's i thought the car was skitterish on motorways and roads with a large camber. I had the original setup redone by a very experienced engineer and maybe a little better but still nerve wracking. Changed to my new sizes, went with ATS wheels which are lighter, same person did the set up for me and drives like a completely different car. Love it.
Probably the best thing I've done to make the whole drive more enjoyable..
edited for the purposes of rubbish auto spell check :-)
Initially on my full set of 18's i thought the car was skitterish on motorways and roads with a large camber. I had the original setup redone by a very experienced engineer and maybe a little better but still nerve wracking. Changed to my new sizes, went with ATS wheels which are lighter, same person did the set up for me and drives like a completely different car. Love it.
Probably the best thing I've done to make the whole drive more enjoyable..
edited for the purposes of rubbish auto spell check :-)
Edited by DHGTR on Wednesday 11th February 09:22
Cant ever give you that answer because the Continentals aren't made in the 335's.
Tramlining on the motorway, Any slight camber change on roads would have you fighting the steering, certainly not undrivable but no where near as pleasant an experience as it is now.
Must add that on the track the zeros and 335's were not a problem.
Tramlining on the motorway, Any slight camber change on roads would have you fighting the steering, certainly not undrivable but no where near as pleasant an experience as it is now.
Must add that on the track the zeros and 335's were not a problem.
I intend trying a different set of rear wheels on my car once she is back on the road after her winter hibernation.
I still have the old wheels the car came with when I purchased it. The rears are 295's so I should be able to find out if my tramlining is down to the width of the rear wheels/tyres.
Paul
I still have the old wheels the car came with when I purchased it. The rears are 295's so I should be able to find out if my tramlining is down to the width of the rear wheels/tyres.
Paul
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