Ultima New boy finding my feet
Discussion
Thought long and hard on this and did check that it wasnt April 1st - i'm a petrol head and although I do run a Wiesel (q7) the thought of one in an Ultima seems strange/weird/wrong. Maybe like a Ferrari or Lambo with a Wiesel install, just not right, maybe i'm a dinosaur but don't like the idea of an ice-cream van clattering behind my head. One point to consider is who on here would buy a Wiesel Ultima when it comes to selling it, if ever ? If like me you couldn't bear the thought of selling something you've worked so hard to build then fine, although its always nice to know you've an asset to liquidate if things go belly up. Only my opinion so please dont kick me too hard
chucknorris said:
Mmmm...a diesel install on an Ultima, in all honesty, why not! I think that will be a first for an Ultima, But if you succeed, what's left for someone who wants to be different... wankel? Hybrid? Full electric? Or how about a completely home built engine?
How about a 4wd with and electric or hydraulic motor up front? Hey ive got thick skin i can take a bit of a bruising i read all your comments and do consider them but to be honest if youve heard one of these modern diesels recently they are not any more clattery than some of the v8s ive heard, on idle gtranted not as refined as petrol come up 2-300 rpm and they are quite sweet but to be honest the torque is what i want and decent mpg daily ish driver use iff poss then the odd track day i must say Z cars now offer vw tdi grass track car its awsome check out you tube and there is even a lotus elise with vw tdi on a track it is not slow but that one is noisey but thats an old engine and they have improved a lot ile get some figures for the bhp and torque put them on and compare the numbers but i guess the proof of the pudding shall be the ULTIMA ANSWER well at least were talking
chuntington101 said:
How about a 4wd with and electric or hydraulic motor up front?
As you say resale issue ime not too worried about selling as i know this could cost more than it can be worth if its that different but still a very valid point and i can always breakit up or put an ls3 or 7 into the car as i wont be changing too much of the original car still options as we are never done tinkering even when its perfect always new things available the four wheel drive twin hyabusa Z cars one was a lot of work and cost a lot of money ile just stick to rear wheel drive for now but you never know im new to this site and this is the first time i have have posted anything. I think that the diesel engine route is a great choice, I looked at this before I started my build but wasn't brave enough. I'm almost at the rolling chassis point and am going the twin turbo LS1 route (just finishing off the exhaust manifolds as we speak). I look forward to reading of your progress
Hello thanks and welcome also. Great engine choice and must admit i almost went the Chevy ls turbo route as well and it was only 3 weeks ago i decided finally after getting my hands on the right gearbox that i am able to do it without torque destroying the thing
THANKS KEEP YOU POSTED ON PROGRESS
THANKS KEEP YOU POSTED ON PROGRESS
This is my first attempt at tig welding the exhaust (passenger's side) I have got to finish it off with waste gate and fully welding the flanges. Engine is LM7 5.3L and I may destroke it to 4.8l yet. Position of turbos has meant that all of the ancilary and dry sump drives have had to be custom made as will have to be the fuel surge and dry sump tanks. I'm going to use a charge cooler to lower intake air temps and laminova coolers/preheaters for the gearbox and engine oil. This will free up side pod intakes for cold air intake for each turbo once air con rad is relocated megasquirt MS3 pro will control the engine,boost and 16 injectors. Once I have everything in its final place the engine will go to the machine shop and will be re-installed and run up before body goes on.
Tim
I am probably telling you something you already know, but you can buy standard bends in varying degrees of bend which you can then cut and weld to give you tighter curves.
It would also produce a smoother gas flow.
Also, remember to fit a heat shield on the alternator and aircon compressor (I assume you will fit it on the other side of the engine).
Paul
I know nothing about forced induction, but does the length of each primary not need to be equal length, as with normally aspirated? (real question?).
I am probably telling you something you already know, but you can buy standard bends in varying degrees of bend which you can then cut and weld to give you tighter curves.
It would also produce a smoother gas flow.
Also, remember to fit a heat shield on the alternator and aircon compressor (I assume you will fit it on the other side of the engine).
Paul
I know nothing about forced induction, but does the length of each primary not need to be equal length, as with normally aspirated? (real question?).
Edited by Storer on Thursday 26th February 23:28
hi Paul
I'm no expert on turbocharging or anything else for that matter and this is the first time that I have made an exhaust or any bespoke parts for a car
I'm using thick walled tube mainly because I got a deal on it and for durability with a heavy turbo hanging of the end,I could have bought mandrel bent thin walled tube and weld them but not what I wanted. This way I have more control over where I route the pipes. Bear in mind that what you see is the manufacture and trial fitting of a component, once I can fit everything in the remaining spaces all components will be stripped off,the engine will go to the machine shop and when it comes back the engine will be built and all of the parts refitted with all the the shielding required. All of my lengths for the manifold tubes are different and I would imagine that equal length would be better but im not after a perfect system only one that fits and gives enough clearance from flammable components and has a chance of working. The drivers manifold does have smoother radius's and the welding is better but this picture is the first attempt .
If you want to see a picture of the drivers side let me know, thanks for the interest
Regards Tim
I'm no expert on turbocharging or anything else for that matter and this is the first time that I have made an exhaust or any bespoke parts for a car
I'm using thick walled tube mainly because I got a deal on it and for durability with a heavy turbo hanging of the end,I could have bought mandrel bent thin walled tube and weld them but not what I wanted. This way I have more control over where I route the pipes. Bear in mind that what you see is the manufacture and trial fitting of a component, once I can fit everything in the remaining spaces all components will be stripped off,the engine will go to the machine shop and when it comes back the engine will be built and all of the parts refitted with all the the shielding required. All of my lengths for the manifold tubes are different and I would imagine that equal length would be better but im not after a perfect system only one that fits and gives enough clearance from flammable components and has a chance of working. The drivers manifold does have smoother radius's and the welding is better but this picture is the first attempt .
If you want to see a picture of the drivers side let me know, thanks for the interest
Regards Tim
V8Dom said:
something looks strange in the photo... those bends will lower the boost as they are straight bends .
its shame you dont have room for a central fuel tank.. then exhaust could come each side of the car like the group c boys..
It wont lower boost as the wastegate will control manifold pressure (closed loop). What the bends in the manifold will do will cause higher back pressures (pre turbo). its shame you dont have room for a central fuel tank.. then exhaust could come each side of the car like the group c boys..
XRTIM I very much applaud your effort. Not everyone is brave enough to commit to doing it, let alone show it to a community like this one. I will suggest that you need to consider supporting the turbo on a movable mount that can grow with the tubing as it expands, and it will expand. If you try to mount the turbo solid the pipes will crack, if you don't support the turbo the pipes will crack. Lessons learned the hard, expensive way. Lee
Thank you all for your comments and information I'm familiar with the thin walled mandrel bent tube but I wanted thick walled tube mandrel bent which after allot of searching I gave up on. this method allows you to not only turn but twist the direction of the pipe. Is's not easy to do and takes allot of preparation to achieve a single bend, if only I could weld like that it would look like a work of art
The turbo is a twin scroll unit (two inlets for the exhausts) an what I have tried to do is separate each exhaust pulse from the other so have ended up with a 4-2-2 with each tube entering the turbo containing one exhaust pulse per rotation of the crank. ideally I would have 4-2 manifold but that is beyond what I can do at the moment maybe next time.
I'm working on the drivers side at the moment (smoother bends) almost done 50mm waste gate is on next(see picture) and will use flexible stainless tube to allow for movement here and movable joints in the exhaust
regards Tim
The turbo is a twin scroll unit (two inlets for the exhausts) an what I have tried to do is separate each exhaust pulse from the other so have ended up with a 4-2-2 with each tube entering the turbo containing one exhaust pulse per rotation of the crank. ideally I would have 4-2 manifold but that is beyond what I can do at the moment maybe next time.
I'm working on the drivers side at the moment (smoother bends) almost done 50mm waste gate is on next(see picture) and will use flexible stainless tube to allow for movement here and movable joints in the exhaust
regards Tim
Gassing Station | Ultima | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff