G50 center change rod fitting...

[Corsair613]

I just started fitting the gear rods today and was surprised at the significant variation I encountered in rod sizes (sometimes as much as .15mm). More than enough to require material removal in order to fit both rose and universal joints. Is this typical or are my parts anomalous?

Any tips on drilling these joints beyond the obvious (lubrication, etc.)? How difficult is it to insert the roll pins with all the joints in place? Seems as though it'll be awkward, if not nearly impossible in spots.

Ken

[Storer]

Not sure about the variation in rod size Ken.

However, I am sure with your previous aero experience you will make sure you get perfect alignment of the holes.

You are right that they can de a bit of a bugger to fit, especially the one behind the bulkhead. A bit of planning to get things so that you can use a punch from underneath the car is worth the effort.
When the car is complete access can be a real issue.

Good luck

Paul

[F.C.]

Corsair613 said:

I just started fitting the gear rods today and was surprised at the significant variation I encountered in rod sizes (sometimes as much as .15mm). More than enough to require material removal in order to fit both rose and universal joints. Is this typical or are my parts anomalous?

Any tips on drilling these joints beyond the obvious (lubrication, etc.)? How difficult is it to insert the roll pins with all the joints in place? Seems as though it'll be awkward, if not nearly impossible in spots.

Ken

If you're fitting centre shift why not fit cable operated?

[Corsair613]

Storer said:

You are right that they can de a bit of a bugger to fit, especially the one behind the bulkhead. A bit of planning to get things so that you can use a punch from underneath the car is worth the effort.

I'm thinking of using a pneumatic rivet squeezer (the solid rivet sort, not a pop riveter); with the right yoke and sets, it should slide those roll pins right into place.

Ken

[Corsair613]

F.C. said:

If you're fitting centre shift why not fit cable operated?

For one thing, my G50 transaxle is set up for rod shift. For another, my perception (I could be completely wrong here, though) is that the rod shift will provide a tighter, more connected feel than a cable linkage.

Ken

[Storer]

Corsair613 said:

I'm thinking of using a pneumatic rivet squeezer (the solid rivet sort, not a pop riveter); with the right yoke and sets, it should slide those roll pins right into place.

Ken

Ken

Just make it easy to remove when the car is complete as you may need/wish to remove it.



Paul

[Corsair613]

Storer said:

Just make it easy to remove when the car is complete as you may need/wish to remove it.

Hi Paul,

They can just be driven out with a small drift and a hammer, right?

The riveter I'm describing doesn't necessarily peen over the ends. With a flat set, it'll just drive the pins straight in. The tool can apply 3,000 PSI to its ram; with a teasing trigger, it's very easy to control.

Ken