Pedal Mount alignment
Discussion
Hi Everyone
I was able to invert the chassis this morning and start work on the lower floor pan paneling. During trial fitting the panels, I noticed that the floor panel would not sit flush against the chassis. On looking deeper, I saw that one of the medal mounts (the clutch) is lower than all the other pedal mounts/chassis members (higher when inverted, otherwise lower to the ground when normal). This is causing the floor panel to arch and not sit flush with everything else.
My question - to get the pedal mount to go slightly lower (when inverted), can I just hammer it a hit to straighten it out? Or is there a better solution to getting it even with the other pedals/chassis members?
Pic attached, pls see right most pedal is slightly higher than the others...
I was able to invert the chassis this morning and start work on the lower floor pan paneling. During trial fitting the panels, I noticed that the floor panel would not sit flush against the chassis. On looking deeper, I saw that one of the medal mounts (the clutch) is lower than all the other pedal mounts/chassis members (higher when inverted, otherwise lower to the ground when normal). This is causing the floor panel to arch and not sit flush with everything else.
My question - to get the pedal mount to go slightly lower (when inverted), can I just hammer it a hit to straighten it out? Or is there a better solution to getting it even with the other pedals/chassis members?
Pic attached, pls see right most pedal is slightly higher than the others...
It's difficult to tell from the picture exactly how much it is out, but I would consider shimming the base of the other two pedals with pieces of ally cut carefully to the exact size of the base. These can be attached with the black sealant. Even if it were "safe" to whack the higher one with a hammer, it's not going to move it parallel.... Just my initial thoughts...
That's an interesting idea... shimming the other pedals... i'll cut some ally and try it (without adhesive) to see if it works... although the bigger concern is also the near side chassis member where the main floor panel is riveted to...
The pedal is off about 4mm at the end.. the panel is off the side chassis rail by about 5mm - which I can hold together and rivet to get rid of the gap
The pedal is off about 4mm at the end.. the panel is off the side chassis rail by about 5mm - which I can hold together and rivet to get rid of the gap
mine were also out and wouldn't let the floor fit flush to the rails. Mine didn't need to much force to bring them into line with a rubber mallet, put a straight edge across the chassis and this will show you where you need to move the pedal mounts. if i remember rightly only one of my mounts was where it should have been
huzilulu said:
That's an interesting idea... shimming the other pedals... i'll cut some ally and try it (without adhesive) to see if it works... although the bigger concern is also the near side chassis member where the main floor panel is riveted to...
The pedal is off about 4mm at the end.. the panel is off the side chassis rail by about 5mm - which I can hold together and rivet to get rid of the gap
4-5mm is way wrong and defo should not happen with a product costing a fair amount of cash. Just my 2p...The pedal is off about 4mm at the end.. the panel is off the side chassis rail by about 5mm - which I can hold together and rivet to get rid of the gap
What he said IMO it will not be the first thing you find that does not quite fit, this is the fettling stage!! This would not concern me greatly. Straight edge and rubber mallet.
xrtim said:
mine were also out and wouldn't let the floor fit flush to the rails. Mine didn't need to much force to bring them into line with a rubber mallet, put a straight edge across the chassis and this will show you where you need to move the pedal mounts. if i remember rightly only one of my mounts was where it should have been
On the one hand, at this price point, it should absolutely fit properly from the factory. On the other hand, real-world quality control being what it is, be prepared to just "make it fit" yourself. That said, I'd much rather see you bend the channel into the correct position with a mallet than force it into place and rivet it there.
While doing the former won't impart any significant stress to the (completely nonstructural) member, doing the latter will create a preloaded condition that might eventually propagate stress fractures into the weld and/or the skin. From my (admittedly irrelevant) perspective of airworthiness, bending it 4mm is just fine, while forcing it is definitely not.
FWIW… :-)
Ken
While doing the former won't impart any significant stress to the (completely nonstructural) member, doing the latter will create a preloaded condition that might eventually propagate stress fractures into the weld and/or the skin. From my (admittedly irrelevant) perspective of airworthiness, bending it 4mm is just fine, while forcing it is definitely not.
FWIW… :-)
Ken
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