REMOVING A G50
Discussion
Hi guys: Been a while so need some input. I am removing my G50 with a standard clutch and throwout bearing. I have everything disconnected and its all well out of the way and triple checked. I have removed both the small allen head that holds the clutch linkage and the 13 mm nut that is on the end of the shaft. The transaxel has come back about a 1/2 inch but feels like it is springing on something and mild efforts have not moved it further. I guess my biggest concern is that I need to do something with the clutch arm beyond taking the allen bolt and 13mm bolt off the side. Lee
Before the 'box can come off you first remove the clutch slave cylinder.
Then through the hole in the side of the 'box remove the M6 bolt holding a metal fork which in turn secures a black plastic cover on the end of the clutch lever shaft.
With the bolt and fork removed you then need to remove the plastic cover which is very difficult to get hold of. I use a self tapping screw into the end of the cover and a pair of pliers to pull on the screw head.
The last piece is to remove the shaft. I use a 6" length of M6 studding (all thread) which screws into the end of the shaft to just pull it out.
Think that covers it.
Steve
Then through the hole in the side of the 'box remove the M6 bolt holding a metal fork which in turn secures a black plastic cover on the end of the clutch lever shaft.
With the bolt and fork removed you then need to remove the plastic cover which is very difficult to get hold of. I use a self tapping screw into the end of the cover and a pair of pliers to pull on the screw head.
The last piece is to remove the shaft. I use a 6" length of M6 studding (all thread) which screws into the end of the shaft to just pull it out.
Think that covers it.
Steve
Good description Steve.
I use bent long nose pliers on the plastic cap and usually the M6 bolt that you have already removed is sufficient to pull the shaft out.
Please remember the shaft is located in needle roller bearings so remove with care as it is easy to have one drop out.
When you refit, use the grease to keep them located while you refit the shaft. If it doesn't want to easily go 'home' then one may have moved and got behind the shaft.
You will also need the 'rubber band' securing tool for the clutch fork.
Good luck
Paul
I use bent long nose pliers on the plastic cap and usually the M6 bolt that you have already removed is sufficient to pull the shaft out.
Please remember the shaft is located in needle roller bearings so remove with care as it is easy to have one drop out.
When you refit, use the grease to keep them located while you refit the shaft. If it doesn't want to easily go 'home' then one may have moved and got behind the shaft.
You will also need the 'rubber band' securing tool for the clutch fork.
Good luck
Paul
Forgot to say you will hear the clutch lever fall down into the housing when you pull the shaft out.
As has been said you can get the shaft out using the M6 bolt but getting it back in is much easier with the 6" long studding as it gives you something to visualize if you are inserting the shaft along the right alignment.
If a roller falls over during insertion you are in for a lengthy stint with a torch, pointy things and gynecology skills to try and stand it up again....the alternative is the 'box has to come out again.
Steve
As has been said you can get the shaft out using the M6 bolt but getting it back in is much easier with the 6" long studding as it gives you something to visualize if you are inserting the shaft along the right alignment.
If a roller falls over during insertion you are in for a lengthy stint with a torch, pointy things and gynecology skills to try and stand it up again....the alternative is the 'box has to come out again.
Steve
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