Update (and tow eyes...)
Discussion
chuntington101 said:
On the air filter, if the engine is making say 650bhp then the air needed will be similar to any other 650bhp engine. I wouldn't worry about it too much. You could try running it on a dyno with and without but it would be an expensive test! Just keep an eye on it for any signs of collapsing.
What supercharger inlet is that off (car wise)? I don't think I have ever seen a LSA with such a compact entry to the supercharger. Most stick much further forward I thought.
Thanks Chuntington. I bought the engine from AB as is ready to drop straight into the car (with all ancillaries already fitted - cat out of bag from a build skills perspective....), so I have only known it with this inlet - not entirely sure what was done to make it fit.What supercharger inlet is that off (car wise)? I don't think I have ever seen a LSA with such a compact entry to the supercharger. Most stick much further forward I thought.
Edited by Pedders on Tuesday 26th January 19:36
Oh on. Thought it might have been an AB product. 
Can you post any more pics of the inlet? Is it cast or sheet ally or carbon (they said they were working on a solution)?
Back to the filter, you could run a pressure sensor between the filter and the throttle body and the again after the throttle body. This should tell you if the filter is restricting the system at all.
Can you post any more pics of the inlet? Is it cast or sheet ally or carbon (they said they were working on a solution)?
Back to the filter, you could run a pressure sensor between the filter and the throttle body and the again after the throttle body. This should tell you if the filter is restricting the system at all.
Happy Jim said:
Really? Does that mean a 500BHP engine needs a 1 square meter panel? (Or is my maths all to cock)?
1 square meter is 10,000 square cm...which would be 5000 hp! 500bhp would be a 25cm x 40cm panel filter which isn't crazy.There is a fair safety factor in this figure. 1.5 should be fine, but the lower you go the less room you have to play with for any debris or dirt causing a loss in efficiency
From http://www.knfilters.com/filter_facts.htm
The usable portion of the filter is called the EFFECTIVE FILTERING AREA which is determined by multiplying the diameter of the filter times Pi (3.1416) times the height of the air filter in inches, then subtracting .75-inch. We subtract .75-inch to compensate for the rubber seals on each end of the element and the filter material near them since very little air flows through this area.
A = CID x RPM / 20839
A = effective filtering area
CID = cubic inch displacement
RPM = revolutions per minute
at maximum power
The usable portion of the filter is called the EFFECTIVE FILTERING AREA which is determined by multiplying the diameter of the filter times Pi (3.1416) times the height of the air filter in inches, then subtracting .75-inch. We subtract .75-inch to compensate for the rubber seals on each end of the element and the filter material near them since very little air flows through this area.
A = CID x RPM / 20839
A = effective filtering area
CID = cubic inch displacement
RPM = revolutions per minute
at maximum power
356Speedster said:
Nice work Pedders, there's some familiar parts in there 
I have the same air filter on my car and I have to say it's marvellous. Immediately after fitting, I could feel the benefit and better still, could measure it with approx. 20 degrees drop in inlet air temp (yes really!).
A 20° drop in intake temperature, that's talking business. I'm sure the engine appreciates, the driver too I have the same air filter on my car and I have to say it's marvellous. Immediately after fitting, I could feel the benefit and better still, could measure it with approx. 20 degrees drop in inlet air temp (yes really!).
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