Wheel Alignment

Wheel Alignment

Author
Discussion

Pedders

Original Poster:

269 posts

284 months

Saturday 26th March 2016
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Hi all,

I am I the process doing the wheel alignment on my GTR. I understand that the front wheels should have 1mm each of toe in. The rhs wheel is bang on, but the left hand is proving trickier - I either have no toe in or, with a turn of the track rod end, too much toe in - it's as if the thread is too coarse to provide the right setting.

Am wondering whether I can adjust things at the rack end. Any suggestions would be welcome.

Many thanks.

Edited by Pedders on Saturday 26th March 17:04

confusionhunter

448 posts

222 months

Saturday 26th March 2016
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My understanding is the rack end is on a ball joint so fine adjustment can be had by turning the rod.
What is more fun is measuring and adjusting the bump steer....!

Steve_D

13,747 posts

258 months

Sunday 27th March 2016
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I must be missing something here.
You turn the track rod and get too much toe....so don't turn the rod quite so far. Simples.

Steve

confusionhunter

448 posts

222 months

Sunday 27th March 2016
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No, I think he means if you only adjust at the track rod end you can only adjust by 1 full turn as the rod end MUST be pointing downwards, otherwise it doesn't fit to the hub!

Pedders

Original Poster:

269 posts

284 months

Sunday 27th March 2016
quotequote all
That's right confusion hunter. Per Steve D's analogy, if I don't turn it, I don't have enough toe in, and if I do, because I have to turn the track rod end a full revolution (otherwise it's, pointing in the wrong direction....) I have too much.


Storer

5,024 posts

215 months

Sunday 27th March 2016
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For those just building.

Adjusting the toe-in/out is done by leaving the ball joint bolted on to the arm on the wheel hub. Slacken the lock nut on the steering rod where it meets the ball joint.

The steering rod can now be rotated as the other end is a ball and socket joint. It is usually a little stiff and may require small stilsons or mole grip pliers. This allows infinite adjustment to get the tracking correct and the steering wheel centred.

Please remember to tighten the lock nut against the ball joint when complete.


Hope that helps.


Paul

Pedders

Original Poster:

269 posts

284 months

Sunday 27th March 2016
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That does help - thank you!

UltimaCH

3,155 posts

189 months

Monday 28th March 2016
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I haven't yet reached the stage of adjusting toe, but your description Paul with the clear instruction makes perfect sense. Thanks thumbup

P.S. I don't recall having seen this in the build manual, but I may have skipped that part

huzilulu

127 posts

112 months

Tuesday 29th March 2016
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Is there an 'easy' way to adjust camber as well (on the wishbones with the bushes, not rose joints) ??

confusionhunter

448 posts

222 months

Tuesday 29th March 2016
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No, Just got to get it as close as you can. Its a finer thread though tso one full turn doesnt make as big a difference as it does with toe. I found a friendly garage that allowed me to flip the top ball joint a turn to get it pretty close. Then of course you have to do the toe again.

Storer

5,024 posts

215 months

Tuesday 29th March 2016
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There is no doubt that setting up the front suspension is a very time consuming and hair pulling job to get right.

Camber and tracking are the easy bit. It is bump steer that is the real bugger.

Changing one element will affect another. You are warned!!!



Paul

AlexCim

156 posts

154 months

Wednesday 30th March 2016
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What are peoples recommended settings for road and track?

Storer

5,024 posts

215 months

Wednesday 30th March 2016
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Stick with the Factory settings for the road.

Deadscoob is better qualified for the track settings.


Paul

V8Dom

3,546 posts

202 months

Thursday 7th April 2016
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tracking depends on the tyres you are running
as some tyres have better manners than others on road and track.
the factory best source, but believe me, dont run the Kumos on the road. They are dangerous and you tram line everywhere

356Speedster

2,293 posts

231 months

Friday 8th April 2016
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I'll throw a curve ball in...... I run 2mm toe out (each side) on the road and it's made a huge difference to stability. The car is less nervous and more confidence inspiring. Other settings are as per factory, although I have done a lot on bump steer correction and also now have longer wishbones. I'm working on caster changes currently... one day I'll get a setup I'm happy with wink

confusionhunter

448 posts

222 months

Friday 8th April 2016
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oh weird! I though toe in/out worked like this:
Street cars often are set up with toe-in; For good straight-line stability cornering is sacrefised.
Race cars are often set up with toe-out; Straight-line stability is sacrifised for good cornering

UltimaCH

3,155 posts

189 months

Saturday 9th April 2016
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