Front Body Hinges
Discussion
UltimaCH said:
Totally agree
+1!!! Both front and rear clamshells need better hinge mechanisms to give better access. Removing the clams to do maintenance is a pain in the backside and no matter how careful you are, can result in damage to the gel-coat / paint I'm saving for the Steve Smith front end treatment, as I haven't found any other off-the-shelf solution (and I don't have the time to sink into developing my own solution).The reason the factory don't position the struts to let the clam go vertical is safety, when you are stopped at the side of the road and the clam is up the rear lights and deflectors need to be visible (and would fail IVA).... its a minor thing i know, but worth mentioning for those considering it.
Again on my Noble I simply put a pad on the floor and disconnect the cable (don't run struts) and let the clam sit on the pad when working on the car
Again on my Noble I simply put a pad on the floor and disconnect the cable (don't run struts) and let the clam sit on the pad when working on the car
Yup, I've already tweaked my rear clam with longer struts to open wider and it's a help, but I'd prefer a more elegant hinged arrangement that would take the clam up & out of the way, rather than just pivoting on a pair of rose joints. For the front, it really needs something like the SS setup, as with the factory front splitter the opening is dire, without jacking the car to allow it to tilt more.
A while ago I was looking at Audi A4 boot hinges, which give an up & out action, but then got side tracked with long wishbones and 19" wheels, LOL! I must have another look at them, or just wave my credit card at SS
A while ago I was looking at Audi A4 boot hinges, which give an up & out action, but then got side tracked with long wishbones and 19" wheels, LOL! I must have another look at them, or just wave my credit card at SS
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